What Router Bits are for What Operation

[Brandon Weiss]

Does anyone know of a good resource where I can research what router bits are to be used for each operation? For example, this weekend when working on a bookcase, I wanted to trim a 'U' shape out of some of the pieces for decoration. I haven't acquired a stock of router bits yet and all I had on hand was a flush trim bit. I wasn't sure that's what I should be using a flush trim bit for so I skipped the decorative idea. Is a flush trim bit good for this, or should I be using a different bit?

[Joe Scharle]

A 'U' shape may be a groove if the sides are steep or a cove if the sides are more shallow. I suggest looking at vendor sites to familiarize yourself with bit shapes. MLCS, Woodcraft and many others. CMT, Freud etc.

[Scott Hildenbrand]

A flush trim bit is for exactly what it's name states.. Flush cutting. It's not what you need by a long shot.

You might want to look up standard router bit profiles to understand what they are for. This will help guide your decision on what bits to get.

Here are some profile shots.

http://www.mykeamend.com/new/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/router_bit_profiles.png

There are many.. many... many... many.. many more profiles available than this.. It's best to check out various bit manufacturer sites to see what profiles they offer.

99% of them include an image beside the bit to illustrate what the final cut will look like.

Spend some time digging around this site to see their bits.. These are higher end bits though, so they cost $$$.. But for example of what the bit looks like vs. what the cut looks like.. It's a great resource.

http://www.amanatool.com/routerbits.html

[Stephen Edwards]

See what happens when you ask intelligent questions! You've been given good advice. I can't begin to tell you how much I've learned simply by asking questions about things that I don't know.

[Rob Young]

I'm a little unclear on the rules about outside page links but this one is pretty educational. A good summary of most of the basic bit profiles and names. Vendor specific but at least a good vendor.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/routerbit.html

If I've bent the rules too far, I'm sure the moderators will gently prod me. :)

[Josiah Bartlett]

This old Delta book ("Getting the Most out of Your Shaper" is written from the perspective of a small shaper, but it gives a lot of insight into building up profiles from multiple shaper cutters. Most have a similar profile available in router bits.

http://owwm.com/mfgindex/pubdetail.aspx?id=1060

[Brandon Weiss]

Thank you all for the advice and the links. Does anyone have anything bad/good to say about the MLCS router bits? They seem to be very reasonably priced compared to what I've found so far.

Also, do most of you buy your router bits in the sets, or do you buy them individually?

[glenn bradley]

Thank you all for the advice and the links. Does anyone have anything bad/good to say about the MLCS router bits? They seem to be very reasonably priced compared to what I've found so far.

Also, do most of you buy your router bits in the sets, or do you buy them individually?

Folks here report the MLCS bits to give good service. All of mine have long since worn out while the Freud and Whiteside bits that I use just as much (more actually) are still going. I did take advantage of the MLCS prices to try out profiles to see if I would actually use them much. Once that was decided and the MLCS bit started to dull, I would buy a quality bit for that purpose.

I do not recommend buying sets unless they are sets of roundovers or maybe a rabbet set. 100 bit sets generally leave a large number of bits never touched according to most folks who post here. Holbren sells Whiteside, is a member here and gives 10% off using code SMC10 and shipping is very cheap.

[Stephen Edwards]

I'm sure that many will disagree with me on this "bit" of advice but if you're new to woodworking and router work you might consider one of the cheap sets of bits found on ebay for $50-100 bucks. In that price range you can get appx 30-70 bits in a case. If your router has a 1/2" collet, I'd recommend getting the 1/2" shank bits.

These are NOT great bits. However, I think it's a good way to familiarize yourself with the world of router bits, for not a lot of money. Then, as you come to understand which profiles you like and are apt to use more often, buy very good bits.

Like Glenn said, the Whiteside bits from Holbren are excellent bits. Holbren ships fast, too! I'm slowly building my collection of quality bits, buying from them.

I think that solid carbide spiral bits, upcut and downcut will be a very important part of your bit collection. High quality ones ain't cheap but they sure are a joy to use and will give you great service and much satisfaction as you develop your router skills.

[Jim Rimmer]

I'm sure that many will disagree with me on this "bit" of advice but if you're new to woodworking and router work you might consider one of the cheap sets of bits found on ebay for $50-100 bucks. In that price range you can get appx 30-70 bits in a case. If your router has a 1/2" collet, I'd recommend getting the 1/2" shank bits.

These are NOT great bits. However, I think it's a good way to familiarize yourself with the world of router bits, for not a lot of money. Then, as you come to understand which profiles you like and are apt to use more often, buy very good bits.

Like Glenn said, the Whiteside bits from Holbren are excellent bits. Holbren ships fast, too! I'm slowly building my collection of quality bits, buying from them.

I think that solid carbide spiral bits, upcut and downcut will be a very important part of your bit collection. High quality ones ain't cheap but they sure are a joy to use and will give you great service and much satisfaction as you develop your router skills.

Brandon, the above advice would be one way to go. Get a "cheap" set and then go to the borg and get a few pieces of pine (for not much $) and start cutting so you can see first hand what they will do. Then when you have serious project and know what bit you want or need, buy a quality one from one of the recommended sources.

Typically, I would stay away from sets just like I stay away from the bit sets for drills that include about 75 screwdriver bits you'll never use. But Stephen's idea and some practice cuts is a good way to get started.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

Concerning bit sets there are only two that I would consider although some are priced so cheaply it's almost worth getting a bit that may only get used once in a blue moon. One is a set of straight cutting bits. These bits can be interchanged for a lot of uses with a fence. The other is a set of roundover bits; a couple sets I've bought had half, three eighths, quarter and eighth roundovers and all mine see a good deal of use. For the ones that see a good deal of use I buy better quality bits and the specialty bits can be 'lesser'. As an examply I needed a particular v-groove bit and the only one I could find at the time was steel and not carbide. Turns out that was fine because I have only used it a couple times and have had it for several years. Also beware buying router bits that are a real good deal because of the price. I have some new bits that I've had for some time that have yet to be used. But then I guess this holds for anything. :o

[Jerome Hanby]

If you have a Woodcraft in your area, watch them for their $5 router bit sales. Their house brand bits are pretty decent and you can pick up a handful of different profiles to play with for not a lot of cash. Any you really like, you can replace with good bits as needed.