Found a Stanley No. 71

[Mike Hutchison]

Sat. morn. (14th) drove about 25 miles to investigate a listing on local CL.
Antique woodworking tools it said. When I got there the lady was still unloading. There were 3 groups of tools wired to cloth backing and framed (these to sell as groups). She had a Bedrock 608 in fair to good condition and was asking $275.00 for it. There were some molding planes. Long story short the only piece on my list and in budget for the trip was a Stanley No. 71. It had two cutters (1/4" and 1/2"). No depth post,
V cutter or fence. Very minor rust and handles in good shape and tight. Believe it is a Type 8. Plating on sole not in great shape but what are you gonna do?
She was asking $45.00; offered $35.00 and had to settle on $40.00.
I figure I have done well enough on other recent finds to average this out a little. My question: What is the proper method of honing the cutters.

[Jim Koepke]

For sharpening the cutters on these, I move my stone to the edge of my sharpening table. The bottom or underside is just lapped flat like the back of a regular plane blade. Then the top side is done with the post hanging over the side and the edge being sharpened is honed sideways.

You are missing the throat closing shoe and the shoe post.

Here is more information on the #71:

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan10.htm

jim

[Mike Hutchison]

Jim:
Yep, I knew I was missing parts.
Had tried short pulls while maintaining some pressure to maintain contact on the primary bevel angle. Guess I thought going sideways would be working against the "grain" or something. Not looking to resell but I'm wondering given the missing parts if $40.00 would be about right price,
too high or what. Thanks for input; Need to find a situation to get it into a game.

[mike holden]

Mike,
I posted instructions for sharpening a 71 and some pictures in this thread - http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=72759

If you are looking for "a situation to get it into a game." then simply make a mortice and tenon joint. The router plane is the correct tool for flattening and adjusting tenon cheeks. (personal soapbox rant: shoulder planes are for shoulders! If they were meant to be used on cheeks they would call them cheek planes! - rant off)

Mike

[Jim Koepke]

If you are looking for "a situation to get it into a game." then simply make a mortice and tenon joint. The router plane is the correct tool for flattening and adjusting tenon cheeks. (personal soapbox rant: shoulder planes are for shoulders! If they were meant to be used on cheeks they would call them cheek planes! - rant off)

Heck, there are times when I use a shoulder plane like a bench plane just because it is close at hand and I would have to get up off my butt to go get anything else.

jim

[mike holden]

Jim,
That actually is not a bad idea, the sole of the shoulder plane is referencing the face of the board.
My peeve is with those who get all excited about making sure their shoulder plan cuts 90 degrees to the side, then whacks at the cheek without any reference to the face of the board. When they lay the shoulder plane against the cheek, there is no way to make the shoulder 90 degrees to the face since the cheek is no longer parallel to the face. DUH!
As I said, my personal pet peeve,
Mike

[harry strasil]

+1 on the peeve, that's why I made me a Tenon Router for those long tenons I sometimes do.