Can you adjust dovetail spacing with Akeda jig?

[Erik Frederiksen]

Title of post says it all.

[Bill Arnold]

The Akeda website (http://www.akeda.com/videos/resources.videos.html#vid_display) seems to have the answers.

[Erik Frederiksen]

Sorry, but I couldn't find the answer when I looked at their site. So I've posted here.

Since you found the answer, would you mind sharing it?

[Bill Arnold]

Video 2 demonstrates setting the position of the Guide Fingers.

[Erik Frederiksen]

I don't understand your response. Perhaps because I'm new to dovetails.

All I'm really looking for is a simple yes or no to my question.

[Bill Arnold]

The first place I look for answers such as this is the manufacturer's website. The Akeda instruction manual and the video I referenced both show the guides can be adjusted in 1/8" increments.

[Roger Jensen]

yes you can

[Erik Frederiksen]

Thank you very much.

I'm considering buying either the Leigh or the Akeda, and hence my question.

Which raises another related one or two.

If the guides can be moved in 1/8 increments then the dovetail spacing is also adjustable in 1/8 increments?

And regarding the D4R, is the guide adjustment in the same increments or infinite?

[Denny Rice]

Eric,

The D4R finger assembly can be adjusted to any design you can come within a 24" span. You are not limited by anything but your own imagination. I would suggest you go to Leigh's website and ask them to send you a free DVD. It is a very well thought out DVD that will answer any questions you might have. I have owned my D4R for about 4 yrs now, I love it. I will say if you are new to creating dovetails with a jig, the Leigh does have a learning curve, but once you get the hang of it, it becomes very easy. Hope this helps.

[Jim Eller]

As Denny said, the spacing is in 1/8" increments, but I never find that limiting or an issue.

What I do like about it is, I can create an exact duplicate by putting the guides back in the exact same spot if I remove them. No sliding to the right or left to find the right spot. The learning curve is near zero. So when I put it away for a while I don't have to spent much time getting it working again.

It just works for me.

I would suggest you watch all the videos, read all the manuals and threads you can before you make your decision.

I don't think one size fits all.

Jim

[Thomas Pender]

1/8" is virtually infinitely adjustable, You can make each dovetail on a drawer a different size. Like others say, "it works for me."

[Erik Frederiksen]

It sounds like for me the Akeda will be the better choice, I appreciate everybody's answers very much.

Erik

[Wayne Cannon]

The Akeda jig's fingers snap into detents on 1/8" centers. This allows you to easily repeat the setting exactly later on, if desired. The only time you might care about this 1/8" increment is in the size of the two end (e.g., top and/or bottom) tails, e.g., for locating the groove for a drawer bottom. Similarly, if you want your top and bottom tails to be the same width, you will need to plan your drawer (or other) sides to fall on 1/8" increments -- not normally a significant constraint.

The D4 fingers have no such discrete positioning constraint, nor easy repeatability (if that's significant to you). The D4 does have significantly more flexibility for a wider variety of [less common] situations. The D4 used to handle larger panels, but I believe there is now a short Liegh jig and a long Akeda jig.

I have both and prefer the Akeda for its ease of setup, significantly better and less cumbersome dust collection, weight, compactness, and general ease of use. I do occasionally pull out the [original] D4, however.

[Wayne Watling]

The Akeda jig's fingers snap into detents on 1/8" centers. This allows you to easily repeat the setting exactly later on, if desired. The only time you might care about this 1/8" increment is in the size of the two end (e.g., top and/or bottom) tails, e.g., for locating the groove for a drawer bottom. Similarly, if you want your top and bottom tails to be the same width, you will need to plan your drawer (or other) sides to fall on 1/8" increments -- not normally a significant constraint.

I noticed that Akeda have just come out with a small attachment (Index strip adjuster) to assist with this issue:
http://www.akeda.com/jig.new-products.html

The Akeda looks like a nicely engineered product, like the inbuilt DC.