Bricks...

[Linda Kroeker]

I've read through all the posts here on brick engraving...bought some clay bricks from HD...Rastered at 600dpi 8s 100p, I thought I would get a darker mark...
is there some way besides color fill to get this?
I also read something about vectoring the words...not sure how and my results were not good, has white residue
vectored at 10s 100p 2500f...what am I doing wrong or is my 45w not powerful enough?
I have someone in need of some tree markers, so I thought brick would be the cheapest...but it takes so long...18min to raster! but the brick was cheap.
Next idea would be 1/8" textured outdoor plastic drill to a garden stake...anyone have any other ideas, this is for a church school project,
which is why I'm trying to keep the cost as low as possible...
Thanks for you help,
Linda

[Martin Boekers]

Bricks can be tough.

Laser Sketch sells nice granite bricks for about $18 or so, depending on how many sides polished.

I believe Plastic Plus sells the metal stakes with cast aluminum plates with an inset for a plate.

Hope this helps.

[Dan Hintz]

Linda,

Try about half of that speed... you're not getting enough heat in there to really vitrify the clay. Also, vector the design, not raster... that should help concentrate the heat a bit more and really melt the clay.

[Darren Null]

Bricks very much depends upon the type of brick. I have a 10W laser and there's 3 main types of bricks round here...1 I can't touch, 1 I can get a hole for filling and the last turns a lovely dark khaki upon fairly light burning.

None of this applies to you, of course, because I'm in Spain and the bricks are different. Try different types and see what works.

Also, I believe, some tosspot has patented burning on bricks, so expect a DMCA if you start to make any money at it. Just FYI.

[Scott Shepherd]

Also, I believe, some tosspot has patented burning on bricks, so expect a DMCA if you start to make any money at it. Just FYI.

Heard the real story on that one. I wouldn't worry about it. At least I'm not worried about. It was privately shared to me, so I prefer not to discuss it publicly, but I can say I was worried before and I'm not worried the least now.

[James Stokes]

When I engrave brick I do my text as an outline no fill then do an inside contour at 0.013 depending how wide the lettering is depends on how many steps I go.

[Darren Null]

I was worried before and I'm not worried the least now.
Can't say I was ever worried...I'm sure there's prior art going back through recorded history as far as the patent is worded. I'd love to see them try to take somebody down with it- they'd get stuffed. And there's the novelty factor. Or not in the case of bricks. The absolute first thing anybody with a new laser does is experiment with every material that comes to hand. Bricks both have a flat surface and they don't run away fast enough, so OF COURSE they're on the list.

I just mentioned it as a possibility that the patent owners might try it on.

Here in Spain they'd get expensively laughed out of court. Might work in the US with a gullible victim and a following wind.

[Linda Kroeker]

Thank you everyone...Dan & James, How do I get rid of the white residue that is around the lettering?
Tried wiping, used water and tried a brush...still there.

[Dan Hintz]

A transfer tape mask would solve your residue problem...

[Michael Hunter]

My laser is a 60W Epilog.
For vectoring clay tile I use 100% power, 25% speed and 5000 frequency (i.e. maximum).
In addition, I place the tile about 9mm (3/8") BELOW the focus point.

This gives a vitrified line about 2mm wide.
It is very durable : I have had engraved tiles (sundials) on the front of my house and exposed to the prevailing wind/rain for several years now with no degradation at all.

At the same power, but focussed properly, the beam slices into the tile and vitrified goo squirts out! Not an attractive finish.

I have found rastering tiles and brick rather hit-and-miss. Some show promise, but most don't engrave at all well this way.

[James Stokes]

You can take the white residue off with muratic acid. I do not as it will come off in time. No one has ever complained about it.