PDA

View Full Version : Shawl Pin



Steve Schlumpf
11-15-2009, 3:43 PM
Had a request from my wife, Colleen - who is an avid knitter - to turn a shawl pin. This is what I came up with and it is based loosely on a design submitted by Rasmus Peterson 2 years ago - http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=71311 Thanks for posting that Rasmus!!!

Cherry, 3 1/2" outside diameter, 1 3/4" inside diameter x a tapered 5/16 thick. The pin portion - also Cherry - is 6 1/2" long x 1/8" diameter shaft. Sanded to 400 grit and will be finished with multiple coats of wipe on gloss poly - only one coat on at time of photo.

132828 132829

Wife loves it!

As always - your opinions, comments and critiques are welcomed!

Thanks for looking!

Pete Jordan
11-15-2009, 5:17 PM
Very nice, Steve!

Colleen can use that as a weapon or to prod someone to do their chores:)

Bill Bolen
11-15-2009, 5:22 PM
Cool piece steve! It turned out well. Now if my wife sees this I'll be doing one quite similar. ..Bill..

Bernie Weishapl
11-15-2009, 6:41 PM
Steve that is cool. My wife did see it and I guess I will be making one.

Richard Madison
11-15-2009, 8:59 PM
That is absolutely the best one of those I have ever seen. Also the only one. Assume that one wraps the shawl around self and pins the two ends to hold it??

Steve Schlumpf
11-15-2009, 9:35 PM
Thanks everyone!

Richard - from the way Colleen was explaining it - wrap the shawl around you and then where the two ends overlap - push both sections of the shawl through the center hole. You then push the pin through both sections to prevent the shawl from pulling back through the hole. Real high-tech but should work pretty good.

Kenneth Whiting
11-15-2009, 9:46 PM
Looks like I have a new project to try. My dad hand dyes what I consider very expensive yarn, and knows a lot of people that would be interested in that. Thanks for sharing.

Thomas Canfield
11-15-2009, 9:50 PM
Steve,

I can't show that to my wife or else would need to make several, but I can see a lot of potential there. Looks great and would make a nice gift. It makes bracelets look easier and I keep putting those off also.

Jamie Buxton
11-15-2009, 9:55 PM
The pin doesn't actually penetrate through the cloth, does it? The shawl would get holes in it, which doesn't seem right. The middle of the pin actually passes behind the cloth, I think.

Kenneth Whiting
11-15-2009, 10:02 PM
The pin goes through the material. They are knitted and have a LOT of very forgiving holes already in it.

Steve Schlumpf
11-15-2009, 10:09 PM
Jamie - the second photo shows the pin going through 2 sections of a knitted scarf to secure it. Kenneth is correct - lots of holes in knitted items to choose from and no way you are going to damage the shawl.

Richard Madison
11-15-2009, 11:04 PM
Thanks Steve. Just as I thought. Will attempt to transmit the idea to a woman who makes knit shawls (next booth at local "holiday bazaar", has just moved to N. Carolina) and a woman in Australia who makes "hair sticks". Might be of interest (or not) to them.

Steve Schlumpf
11-15-2009, 11:09 PM
Colleen just pointed out in her knitting supplies magazine that they make these things out of colored glass all the time. Figures.... just when I thought we were on to something new! HA!

Richard Madison
11-15-2009, 11:27 PM
Steve, might (or not) be new to the two people to whom I want to send the idea, but do not know how to copy and save the address to this thread, and later send/email it to others. Can you 'splain this in baby steps please? Thanks.

Steve Schlumpf
11-15-2009, 11:37 PM
Richard - unless the folks are members - they will not be able to view any photos. Pm me with your email address and I will forward the photos to you - if that will help.

Duh.......... you could just right click on the photo and save to your computer. Sometimes I miss the simplest of things!

Richard Madison
11-16-2009, 12:34 AM
Steve, -- Also have a deteriorating grasp of the obvious, of which Margaret and I sometimes remind each other. Will grab the photos and await reply to pm of how to capture the thread address. Should know better by now to stop trying to be helpful, but it keeps happening.

Edit: Just read the part about invisible photos to non members. Got 'em to pass along. Thanks.

Rasmus Petersen
11-16-2009, 2:37 AM
Very nice steve ! looks real good, finhsh and form is spot on :)

I promised long long ago to make an article on the "petersen shawl pin" but since i went proturner i havent had time at all... But now might be the time ;)

The choice of finish is also spot on, did the fist of mine (and now hundres of them later) have changed from Frichion polish on both ring and pin to homebrew wipe on poly and finishng off with 3 comp buff. the pice is to be worn and will be exposed to the elements, and the FP, got grey shadows.

Jeff Nicol
11-16-2009, 6:22 AM
Steve, Colleen was correct in wanting you to make her this! It has an old world charm and class that has been forgotten by the masses! Very nice work on a small timeless, useful piece of wooden jewelry. I think the basic concept could be made to work with silk scarves and such if a small block was left on the back with holes for the pin to go into and not penetrate the scarf, but pinch it together. My cousin has some very nice hand dyed and painted silk scarves in the gallery so that is where I am going with the idea!

Great inspiration!

Jeff

Rasmus Petersen
11-16-2009, 6:27 AM
Jeff : This model works on silk scarves also. Just loop the scarf around the pin.

Tony De Masi
11-16-2009, 7:29 AM
Very nice Steve. But what, no maple?????????;)

Tony

Thom Sturgill
11-16-2009, 7:48 AM
Trying to figure the process for a doughnut -
wood worm screw or glue block and rough the outside, chuck in large jaws and create center opening, finish one side out to the jaws, flip and finish other side. Then jam chuck and finish outer edge? Is that close?

Steve Schlumpf
11-16-2009, 8:59 AM
I had a block of dry Cherry that was approximately 4” square x 2” thick. I used a forstner bit to drill a 1 ¼” hole about 3/8” deep for the #1 jaws of my Talon chuck to expand into.

I turned the outside of the ring and finish sanded it. Then drilled about a 1/8” hole in the center of the block about ½” deep to use as a reference when reversing the ring. Used a parting tool to almost separate the ring from the block and finished the cut with a saw. When parting the ring – make sure that you start the cut so the ring block will be at least double the thickness of the finished ring dimension. You don’t want this to be a true ring form yet as the remaining center section will be used to align the ring.

Face the block and make it flat / smooth. Cover the now smooth surface of the block with double sticky tape. I use 2” carpet tape cause I can get it at the local Menards. Here is where the 1/8” drilled hole comes in to play… turn the ring so that the finished surface will be against the tape, use the tailstock to center the ring and apply pressure until you are confident the ring will stick.

At this point you can turn, shape and finish sand that side of the ring. Remember that it is tape holding the turning – so don’t get to aggressive! When finished, it only takes a little finger pressure to remove the ring from the tape!

Hope that makes sense.

CW McClellan
11-16-2009, 9:13 AM
Aye the Scottish and Romans have been using these for centuries--little history lesson for today
made of bone-wood-metal

Rasmus Petersen
11-16-2009, 9:16 AM
Vikings :) (my version is based upon a silver version from a viking grave)

David E Keller
11-16-2009, 9:19 AM
Thanks for posting. I think I understand the steps but this project has got photo essay written all over it. A short video would be a great thing as well. I really like this project and my wife would love this

Steve Mawson
11-16-2009, 10:19 AM
How do you make the pin that long and that thin???:confused:

Steve Schlumpf
11-16-2009, 10:38 AM
Steve - believe it or not I actually used my roughing gouge as I am not that adept using a skew. Also....... I cheat. I turned it down pretty close to final diameter but then switched over to sandpaper and brought it to final size that way. Once the pin portion gets fairly thin - it starts to whip around a little and you have to use your finger to steady it when cutting or sanding.

Rasmus Petersen
11-16-2009, 10:48 AM
Like steve said. Roughing gouge til close to final diameter, but i switch to the skew and take i down to the 3-4 mm i make mine in. and i use my fingers extensively for support.... theese are great skew practise..

David Walser
11-16-2009, 12:44 PM
Not that anyone wears their hair long anymore, but I remember most girls in my youth had something similar to Steve's shawl pin in their hair care arsenal. (Aw, the knowledge that comes from sharing a bathroom with your sister.) Here's a picture of the kind of thing I'm thinking of. only made of leather.

Curt Fuller
11-16-2009, 8:30 PM
Steve, beautiful spindle work.

Now, since Colleen is a knitter, you need to surprise her with a set of custom knitting needles.....same idea but a little longer. Or cut a small notch and make some crochet hooks. Maybe some lace bobbins too.

ernie riley
11-16-2009, 8:38 PM
Steve, great work.....did you use a jam chuck system to finish turning the inside and outsides or do you have another trick you use?

Also, any suggestions on how to learn to turn 1/8" spindles?

thanks,

ernie riley

Steve Schlumpf
11-16-2009, 8:48 PM
you need to surprise her with a set of custom knitting needles.....same idea but a little longer. Or cut a small notch and make some crochet hooks. Maybe some lace bobbins too.

Now that is seriously funny!!! If she worked with hollow forms I would be all over that but all this small spindle stuff is not really what I want to be turning!

Steve Schlumpf
11-16-2009, 8:49 PM
Ernie - not sure where in this thread but I did a fairly detailed description of how I turned the ring portion. If you can't find it - let me know and I will PM you with the details.

Kenneth Whiting
11-16-2009, 8:57 PM
It's funny that knitting needles got brought up. I was asked to make a few sets of needles. It seems easy enough, until you realize that all 5 pieces have to be exactly 2.5 mm wide. the entire length. To me 2 mm to 3mm would seem fine but to knitters every .5 mm is very important.