How do I make cockbeading molding

[dennis thompson]

I am trying to build the cabinet that was on the cover of the Autumn 2008 Woodworking magazine. It calls for 3/16" x3/4" cockbeading molding. I can't figure out how to make it, any suggestions? If I'm not able to make it, is this something I could buy at a lumber yard?
Thanks
Dennis

[Mike Henderson]

You can buy a router bit that makes cockbeading - except they don't call it a cock beading bit. I think it's called an edge beading bit. Just adjust your cut so that the round part comes to the bottom of the board. You'll have a round profile at the bottom of the board and a small flat at the top of the round. I have a couple of bits in the shop that I've used to make cock beading - I'll take pictures if you need them.

Mike

[Conrad Fiore]

Here is a video.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=24975

[Frank Drew]

Making the cockbeading itself isn't very complicated, since it's just a piece of thin stock with a round nose on one edge. The rounding can be done with power tools or by hand with planes, rasps or files, sandpaper, whatever.

Cock beading is traditionally used for veneered drawer faces to protect the veneer edge; ideally, you complete and then fit the drawer to the drawer opening before cutting the gains for the beading, which is mitered at the corners when applied. The top beading is usually made the full thickness as the drawer front, while the side and bottom pieces are often half that width (leaving most of the dovetails showing), meaning that the miter where the side pieces of the molding meet the top piece have to be stopped.

I've cut the recesses with a table saw, with the drawer riding on it's face and the blade raised the precise amount to match the width of the molding. You have to be careful, but it's not terribly complex.

[Barry Vabeach]

Dennis, if the drawer front is solid wood, not veneered, you can use a scratch stock to get a very similar look with far less work. This is an example of the concept, the only tricky part is the corners.
http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/jThompson/restore/scratchStock/scratchStock1.asp

[lou sansone]

I use a beading bit on my shaper and use a thicker piece of stock to keep things stable. I shape the piece and then rip a section off. keep doing this until you have all the stock you need, or until the stock gets too thin to safely shape

Lou