Need help/advice on Casting Resin

[Ray Binnicker]

I want to cast some wine bottle stoppers with a colored base and clear top half containing an embedment. I am having trouble understanding the ratio of hardner-vs-resin. I can keep experimenting and wasting resin and an embedment or hope someone here can put me on to a tutorial or video that will enlighten me.
TIA
Ray Binnicker

[Jeff Nicol]

There are a bunch of videos on Youtube about casting resin and things, also try the Pen Turners assoc. They have some things on there also. Or jsut do a search on the web and you will find more than you can read in a month!

Jeff

[Mark Hix]

I am just learning the casting witch craft myself....my understanding is that it depends on which resin you are using...they are all different. Some are mixed by volume and some by weight. I recently attended an allumilite demo for those kinds of stoppers and they weighed the 2 parts on digital scales.

[Norm Zax]

What resin are you mixing (type and source are welcomed info)?

[Ray Binnicker]

I am currently using Easy Cast from "Michaels"; the stuff you have use the "drops" of hardner with. I think it is my technique but I can't seem to get the hang of it.

[John Terefenko]

I am currently using Easy Cast from "Michaels"; the stuff you have use the "drops" of hardner with. I think it is my technique but I can't seem to get the hang of it.


Ray

It really is not too hard to learn. Now there are some factors to take into consideration when casting and that usually has to do with temp and if you use a casting pot or not. A small scale could be helpful because all resins rely on weight basically. For every ounce of the resin you are using I like to add 4 to 5 drops. Anything more could make the mix too brittle. Noticed I said ounce so that is where the scale comes in. If you try to judge how much resin you have you will miss it every time. Now here is where temp play a role. The hotter the temp the quicker the mix kicks off. The colder the more time it takes. Now for making 2 different layers, the mixing is the same but add the color before you add the hardener and stir do not get too wild because you will be adding bubbles. When this layer gets about to jell then mix the next layer and add this on top. Both layer will cure in time. Tiny bubbles can be a factor and that is why alot of casters use a pressure pot. Not always needed but makes life easier. To get the bubbles out some people use a tool that vibrates such as a sander or some use a scrollsaw table especially if you have one of those lower end models. They are always good for vibration. :)

There are alot of videos on utube that are very helpful. Good luck and if you have more specific questions just post them and am sure you will get help. Good luck.

[Ray Binnicker]

Thanks alot guys. From what I just read I "think" I may be using too much hardner. I'll try again in the morning.
Ray

[Bernie Weishapl]

Thanks for the info Ray. I will have to look at Michael's next time there.

[Brian J McMillan]

Ray have a look at the Smooth On site.

http://www.smooth-on.com/

I was an ornamental plasterer and I used a lot of their products. The casting resins are great. You can simulate bronze or iron or whatever by adding metallic powders. The castings will even develop a patina over time. I used to use one that could be demolded in 5 minutes and then bent to shape to fit an irregular background. The site has some good info, tutorials and data sheets.

[Jim Underwood]

Has anyone ever tried the fiberglass resin you can buy at HD or Lowes?

[Marvin Hasenak]

Has anyone ever tried the fiberglass resin you can buy at HD or Lowes?

It is not clear, one I used had a kind of a green tint to it. Another I used was kind of a sand tint color. Kind of like having a pot luck dinner, okay but I never knew what color I was going to have, so I used dye.

[Brian Keahey]

Ray, the amount of resin you are casting in one batch also determines how much catalyst to add. The smaller amount of resin, the more catalyst you need. The more resin, the less catalyst you need. The basic rule of thumb for a thick mold (i.e. ½” and up) is five drops of catalyst per ounce of resin, for a normal cure, more for a

faster cure and less for a slower cure. Thin layers require more than normal
catalyst since the volume of resin is not there to generate the heat needed to
cure. The faster the resin cures the more brittle it becomes.

As far as casting 2 colors with an embedment, pour your base color. Once it starts to set up, place your embedment and pour your top color. Be careful mixing your resin. You don't wanna induce bubbles. When you pour your top color, pour slowly on one side of your mold to allow the resin to fill and push out as many bubbles as it can. Vacuum and pressure are your friends at this point. Use both, if you have them, to collapse any remaining bubbles.

I have a few PDF's on casting polyester resin. If you want, I can email them to you.

Brian.

[Jim Burr]

I've been using Alumilite a lot Ray. Resin gets expensive especially at Michaels'. There are quite a few online retailers, but even places like CS and get spendy if you "practice" to much. I picked a friends brain and ended up using a pressure pot. HF has a fine one for $75 on sale. A thin (1/16") wood dowel works well to stir, but go very slow, the resin is thick so bubbles are hard to make, but if you do, the take forever to get out