A chain to both crosscut, limb, and rip?

[John Sheets]

Hey Folks,
I'm going to set up a new chainsaw for the preparation of bowl blanks the way probably 95% of us do it, i.e., crosscutting the log to 12, 14, 16 inch or whatever lengths, and then "splitting" them as they lay on their side to remove the pith and create a flat surface. I've always used a standard chain, ground conventionally, to do this job, and it has worked reasonably well. I'm just wondering if anyone has utilized anything different, such as a skip-tooth chain, filing the teeth at a ten degree angle rather than the usual 30, etc. Anyone with success using a different set-up, I'd appreciate your input. John S

[Curt Fuller]

I think you're on the right track with the 10 degree angle on the cutters. But I honestly have never had any trouble ripping bowl blanks with a normal chain.

[Steve Schlumpf]

John - I use a standard chain and have not experienced any problems. I do cut in a different order than you suggested - I cut the ends of the log off first, then rip down the center, then cut into bowl blank sizes. By ripping the log while it is still fairly long - it has been my experience that weight of the wood helps to prevent it from moving while being ripped. Rip shorter pieces and you have a good chance of getting the wood thrown at you by the blade! DAMHIKT!

[Ryan Baker]

I haven't had any problems with a standard chain. But I can bury the 20" bar of my MS361 in a rip cut without even slowing it down. It rips great. It seems to me that for cutting bowl blanks, you need cross cutting as much as ripping, so a rip chain seems less important. But i'm no expert on chains.

[Paul Atkins]

I sharpen with about halfway between the two, so I'd guess 20, but that's a guess. Makes it better for ripping but not much difference when crosscutting. Just keep it sharp.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I also cut at less than 30, but not as radical as 10. Probably 20. Can't remember. One other thing no one else mentioned, I file down the guide nub a bit too. This does make the saw jump a LOT on end grain, so you may not want to do that.

Sharp chain is the main point, as already mentioned. Oh, keep it out of the dirt.

[Nathan Hawkes]

As already mentioned, saws will jump a bit more with a more flat angle. I mill a bit with my big saw (94cc), and use a 10deg. angle. I use 35deg. for general use. Skiptooth is faster on softwood, and seems to clear chips faster in pine, but it really isn't that much of a difference IMHO. I think the 10deg. chain is much less aggressive--35deg. will cut faster, and hold itself in the cut more, but 10deg. leaves a smoother surface. Also, chisel chain--that which has a sharp 90deg. corner on the cutters, works better than semi-chisel, also called chipper chain. It goes dull quicker, but cuts better when sharp as long as you don't hit anything other than wood... Honestly, a sharp chain is a lot more important than the angle its ground at. I mean sharp! I use a grinder, but a FRESH file (read not old & clogged) works just as well. Keep the depth rakers down to the appropriate clearance as well. A lot of people don't ever file them. DUH, I wonder why it won't cut right....:rolleyes:. Steve had a great suggestion with ripping the log first, then cutting off your lengths. Its a lot easier if the log is whole to keep it from moving around on you while you're cutting.

[Pete Jordan]

I have been happy with a ripping chain from these folks: http://www.granberg.com/