Newbies question on burls.

[Tim Browne]

So far I haven't tried burls, just regular woods. I'm gaining some confidence to take the next step. Would trying burled wood be a good next step for something small like a pen. I know te pen blanks are stabilized. Do you have to stabilize small bowl blanks before turning? Is there a material I should try before going to burls?

I can crawl and now want to walk, but not run, so any advice is appreciated.

[Chris Stolicky]

You can make pens, or anything else, out of burls. Just keep in mind that the grain is variable, there could be voids, and who knows what else.

If you are going to use burl for a pen, just make sure it is very dry, and then some. If the wood moves on you it will be a difficult pen to make.

One option is to buy a stabilized burl blank (or do it yourself - a whole other hobby) and try that. It will cost you a few bucks though.

Hey, I have always said, if you don't try new things or branch out (safely), you will not further your skills and abilities.

[Nathan Hawkes]

Well Tim, I've never turned a pen, but I always assumed that the blanks were stabilized to keep the pen from cracking from the normal shrink/swell routine that wood goes through depending on the humidity. I would think that with a very thin wood, as you're getting in a pen blank that's sized down --1/16-1/8" maybe?? anyway, point is that the stresses when around the tube might make it crack unless its stabilized. ?? Anyway, that's what I assumed. As far as bowl blanks are concerned, I've turned a lot of burls. I don't buy, I've just been in the right place at the right time a lot. Anyway, I haven't had any issues at all with drying of very wet burls. I don't usually wrap the particular burls that I'm talking about, but usually use the DNA and brown paper bag method with other woods. This particular red maple tree was quite beautifully spalted, and grew mildew very aggressively if I bagged them. I didn't have any drying cracks in probably 25-30 bowls. All were turned to final thickness--3/16 to 7/16 depending on the size of the bowl. I might have had different results with thicker bowls. Anyway, turn away, Tim!

[David E Keller]

Burl makes beautiful pens. It doesn't need to be stabilized but should be dry. I've turned maple, oak, chinaberry, walnut, ash, and multiple exotic burls without stabilizing and have had no trouble with cracking as long as the burls are dry. It's a great way to use up the off-cuts from bowl turning. All stabilized woods turn very similarly in my opinion... It makes them easier to finish, but I think they are less fun to turn. A sharp tool and a little CA and sandpaper with take care of the voids and punky spots found frequently in burls. Have fun and post some pics.

[charlie knighton]

is this free wood/burl or are you going to have to buy it?????????

[Tim Browne]

Thanks for all the answers.
Charlie, I'd start by buying some stabilized burl blanks, then maybe move up to non-stabilized. I don't have a source for free burls and have to stay small. I'm restricted to lifting 10 lbs max due to back problems.

[David E Keller]

eBay is a great source for burled pen blanks including some that are stabilized. The shipping is not so bad on pen blanks because you can get at least a dozen of them into a flat rate envelope. Most of the major turning suppliers also sell burled pen blanks, but the prices are considerably higher in most cases than what you find on eBay... at least that's been my experience. If you want a large box of various unstabilized woods, there's a seller called chitswood that generally has medium flat rate boxes full of cutoffs that are priced right. I've bought from him several times with nothing but positive experiences.