Where should I buy Starret combo squares (online)?

[Greg L. Brown]

Does anyone know a good, reputable place to buy new Starrett combo squares online? I've already looked on Amazon.com and Lee Valley, but they don't sell the satin chrome version (which I definitely want).

This is the model number of the one I'm looking to buy:

C11H-6-4R (Satin Chrome, 6" size)

Does anyone know what the difference is between the "4R" and the "16R" versions? This will no doubt highlight my "newb-ness"

According to Starrett:
"No. 4R – 8ths, 16ths, Quick Reading 32nds, 64ths"

"16R – Quick Reading 32nds, 64ths, Aircraft Quick Reading 50ths, 100ths"

I mostly know what that means, but in terms of practicality in the woodshop, I assume I'd want the 4R?

Thanks,
Greg

[Bob Vallaster]

Try searching on Froogle (Google's price search). Use brand name and model. I found prices from $63 to $82. Can't vouch for unfamiliar sellers, though.

Bob V

[Thomas S Stockton]

I bought mine off of e-bay pretty reasonably priced. 4r is my favorite I find 16r completely useless and unreadable.
Tom

[Scott T Smith]

MSC is a well respected machinist supply house. They have a wide variety of Starrett combination squares in stock, at very attractive prices.

http://metalworking.mscdirect.com/CGI/MWSRCH?ns=1&oldNtt=starret+4r&oldNtk=Keyword+Search&oldURLVar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scrNtt=starret+combo+square&Ntk=Keyword+Search

[Joel Goodman]

$70 at TWW "Tools for Working Wood" in NYC; same price at Lee Valley. You would have to call to see if it's the satin chrome model.

[Dennis Puskar]

I agree with Tom check out Ebay.

Dennis

[Wes Grass]

Enco, owned now by MSC, has most of the same items for significantly lower prices. Or at least they still did right after MSC acquired them. That may have changed but it's always worth a look.

use-enco.com

[Rick Lizek]

I buy 3 or 4 a year from www.wttool.com Just for the heck of it I bought a 4 piece combo square from Grizzly and it's just as accurate as my Starrett and I'm fussier than the guys in the shop...oh well!

[Michael Peet]

+1 on the 4R.

I've bought a few Starrett items from Transcat.

http://www.transcat.com/Catalog/productdetail.aspx?itemnum=C11H-6-4R&utm_source=google&utm_medium=base

Beware, they will start sending you gigantic catalogs in the mail.

Mike

[Rob Cunningham]

Hartville Tool has Starrett combo squares on sale until Jan 31.

[Kent A Bathurst]

+1 in 4R. Also available at Highland Woodworking (you need this site on favorites if you are just starting out), but the Hartville prices are really good.

Why 6"? 12" is only a few bucks more - just curious. Plus - later you can add the protractor head to the 12", or the 18" rule, or the........

Regardless, you will never regret buying Starrett brand anything.

[Rye Crane]

Gregg,

I usually get my Starrett tools from MSI-Viking.com. If you cannot reference it on their web site then I always call and their customer service will identify the item and they will give you the information. Very good customer service so far.

Rye Crane
Pittsburg, Ca.

[Greg L. Brown]

Kent wrote:

Why 6"? 12" is only a few bucks more - just curious. Plus - later you can add the protractor head to the 12", or the 18" rule, or the........ Actually that was another question I had. Should I get a 6" or a 12" Starrett combo square? I plan to get a small 4" double square from Lee Valley (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=44279&cat=1,42936). So maybe that 4” square will take care of the smaller stuff, and the 12” will be for larger stuff.

OR, could I get a 6” model and then just get a 12” blade later? Are the Starrett blades expensive?

Thanks,
Greg

[Mike Henderson]

I have the both the 6" and 12" Starrett and I don't think you can swap blades. If this it your first, get the 12"

And on the double square, I'd recommend the 6". The 4" is just too short for most work. Don't forget that some of the blade has to stay in the body so you don't get 4" of working length.

Mike

[lowell holmes]

I can't tell you where to buy Starrett products, but mine came from Lee Valley as did a lot of other tools that I have. :)

[Ellen Benkin]

ebay. Be patient until you find what you want.

[Jim McFarland]

Industrial Boys for most any Starrett blade/square you might want (I bought metric blades there):

http://www.industrialboys.com/columnar.aspx?cat_id=4313&session_id=198397279&category_site=STARTOOL

Competitive prices when I purchased --- don't know about now but worth a look anyway

[dan sherman]

C11H-6-4R (Satin Chrome, 6" size)


I highly recommend Enco, it's a sister company to mscdirect.

C11H-6-4R $66.60 (http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=990-3004&PMPXNO=3012780&PARTPG=INLMK32)

Also use promo code PFSNOV it will give you free shipping on orders of $25 or more untill 12/31/09.

[Kevin Groenke]

Kent wrote:
Actually that was another question I had. Should I get a 6" or a 12" Starrett combo square? I plan to get a small 4" double square from Lee Valley (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=44279&cat=1,42936). So maybe that 4” square will take care of the smaller stuff, and the 12” will be for larger stuff.

OR, could I get a 6” model and then just get a 12” blade later? Are the Starrett blades expensive?

Thanks,
Greg


Get the combo square with a 12" blade, the balance and blade-head proportions with a 6" blade is kinda funky - the blade slides, so it's rare that a 12" blade is too long.

I have 6" and 4" double squares - the 6" doesn't fit in an apron pocket, so I usually use a 4". The double square is used frequently to:check for square, set blade/bit height, layout joinery, etc. rarely is 4" not long enough.

I picked up a couple of these for our students a while back - GREAT value.

http://www.mannyswoodworkersplace.com/303-0004.html

Looks just like the Lee Valley double square I have, though I haven't compared them side-by-side to see if they seem to share manufacturer.

I hadn't heard of Manny's but shipping was quick and order was received with no issue. They have some other unique items and attractive prices.
http://www.mannyswoodworkersplace.com/101-0446.html
http://www.mannyswoodworkersplace.com/setof3anmoch.html

[Kent A Bathurst]

Get the combo square with a 12" blade....

I have 6" and 4" double squares - the 6" doesn't fit in an apron pocket, so I usually use a 4". The double square is used frequently to:check for square, set blade/bit height, layout joinery, etc. rarely is 4" not long enough.



Ditto to what Kevin said. 12". Also - you can get the protractor head - I use this pretty regularly, but no need to get it until you need it. There is a package deal with 12" combo, protractor, and centering head, which I got - but I've never used the centering head. Also - someday you could get the 18" rule for the 12" head. I've never had a plausible excuse to get one, but someday.........

The 4" double square is invaluable to me. Don't know the LV - I have the Starrett.

FWIW - there are two things I got a few years ago that I should have gotten 10 years before that, and they are relatively cheap. (1) the Veritas saddle square. $15. Man - what a nice little tool. And (2) a fractional dial caliper. Mine is a Oshlun $40 at Rockler (No - I didn't pop for the $160 Starrett, but I thought about it. If I ever demolish these, I might).

I have other squares, etc., but it seems like I whatever I do, I first grab the Starrett 12" combo, 4" double, saddle, and calipers.

[Greg L. Brown]

Kent wrote:

FWIW - there are two things I got a few years ago that I should have gotten 10 years before that, and they are relatively cheap. (1) the Veritas saddle square. $15. Man - what a nice little tool. And (2) a fractional dial caliper. Mine is a Oshlun $40 at Rockler

Why a fractional caliper? Isn't the decimal kind just as good? I'm only looking at the digital ones (I've used the analog ones and never liked 'em).

This one seems decent: http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/12917

Is Hartville Tool a reputable place? Never heard of them, but they have very reasonably priced stuff.

Thanks,
Greg

[Kevin Groenke]

Decimal vs fractional and dial vs digital is a personal preference: all are certainly accurate enough for woodworking. I cut my teeth in an pre-cnc machine shop, so I prefer a decimal dial caliper. Decimal-to-fraction conversions are stored in some unexplainable portion of my memory banks, so I don't need no stinking fractions on a caliper.

Again, I find a 4" caliper easier to stow in an apron pocket than a 6". Grizzly's $15 - 4", has been adequate for my daily tasks since somebody walked off with a Mitutoyo. Enco has an import for $15 too.

Hartville Tool is reputable in my experience though I haven't used them for some time.

-kg

[Kent A Bathurst]

Kent wrote:


Why a fractional caliper? Isn't the decimal kind just as good?

You are dead-nuts on a couple of "personal preference" items here.

Yep - decimal every bit as good. You want to get down to the gnat-hairs, that is definitely the way to go.

All my other measuring stuff (Starrett rules, Stanley tapes, table saw fence rule, CMS outfeed system rule.......) are fractional, so I just decided to go with the flow. If the dado I am cutting on the TS is too narrow (per the calipers) that translates directly to the TS. Calipers say I need another 3/64", then that is "one and one-half ticks" on the TS scale. As opposed to forty-seven thousandths equals find the calculator and figure it out. The machinist-background guys (how ya' doin' Kevin?) are laughing at me, and I can live comfortably with that knowledge.

No experience on the digital, but I have seen somewhere digital that read out in fractions (Rockler?). To me, the analog version give me a quick visual reference to differences - see dado example above. All the other measurement devices come with pointers and "ticks" so I find this the "less-error-prone-path." Again - that's just my view.

No knowledge of Hartville.