Is thin really in?

[Jay Jagerson]

As a flat wook worker and looking into start turning I have to ask this.

I read a fair amount here about how thin something is when comes to HF, etc.

Is this a case where thin is really just something that a turnner looks for and is lost on the general public?

I can see that a wood turner would go for thin as possible just for the enjoyment of it. Of coarse it would depend if the item is for looks or function I'm sure.

So is thin really in?

Just courious.

Jay

[Chris Haas]

i found that thin hf's are good, because they have a lot of strenght just because of their shape, however, nobody likes a thin bowl. what good is it if you cant slide it across a table filled with pretzels right? just my findings.

[John Keeton]

Jay, as a flatworker and newbie to the round side, I have wondered the same thing! My conclusion - it is the adrenaline rush to see how thin one can get it before it BLOWS!!!

[Ken Vonk]

Thin is a very personal thing. As Chris stated it depends some what on the purpose of the piece. Something for use might require thicker sides for strength. Then there is the perception of the person looking at your work. If they are looking at the shape or form and the workmanship, then I would say that Thin Is In. If you're piece is attempting to send a message about the wood, then thicker could certainly be better. You might also take into account your audience. If your selling at a high end gallery, then thin is in, if it doesn't detract from the "art". If you're selling at a kitchen supply store, then thick is the way to go. Also remember that too thick can cause problems with splitting and cracking.

I think I've spent my $.02 worth :rolleyes:

Ken

[Richard Madison]

Jay,
For the most part "very thin" is simply an exercise in developing one's turning skills, to impress oneself and perhaps other turners. As a practical matter, Ken has covered it well. The weight of a piece needs to feel that it matches the look of the piece. Too heavy (too thick) is usually a turn-off, but too light can also create a negative impression in mind of the customer. As Ken said, need to match thickness with wood density, the look, and intended use of the item.

[Wally Dickerman]

As others have said, depends on the use planned for the piece. The walls on a salad bowl or a fruit bowl shouldn't be under 1/4 inch thick. Now a round bottom popcorn bowl that's meant to sit in your lap should be very thin. Holds more popcorn.

Hollowforms that aren't functional can be thin and most of mine are. Too thick isn't good. A HF shouldn't feel heavy when picked up. I'm basing this on many years of selling HF's.

Sometimes thin is necessary as when the piece is to be pierced. Piercing requires walls that are 1/16th inch thick.

Wally

[Jay Jagerson]

All good information, its interesting to see the perspective from the "old turners" point of view!

[curtis rosche]

really thin is normally just for artsy things or when you are testing your skill limits, with hollow forms it is different, you can leave it thick and still have it look good but it will be heavy. you can also make that same hollowform thin and lite.
Steve has said in a couple of his HF posts, that he left a certain peice thin so that you look at it and expect it to be heavy, and when you pick it up it feels lite as a feather.

[Chris Friesen]

I'm primarily a flatworker but I've played around on a lathe a little bit.

For myself, I'm much more impressed by thin. It shows that the maker has enough pride in his work to take the risk of thinning the walls. I'm also impressed by _even_ thickness, especially around the bottom of a hollow form. Many beginners get lazy around this area.

As others have said it needs to be strong enough for the purpose, but there are very few things that require 1/2" or 3/4" walls.

[Sean Hughto]

I think wall thinness is just another of the design attributes we choose as we make bowls and forms along with the curves, foot treatment, rim treatment, decorative beads etc. You do what works for the given piece. I also think most bowls don't need very much thickness to be functional as say fruit or salad bowls. In fact, thinner is nice since they are light both visually and literally.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Jay - just my opinion but I believe it has more to do with balance than anything else.

If you turn a hollow form (as an example) and it looks to be very thin & light weight, then the piece should match the viewer's expectations or they will be disappointed.

If a bowl has heavy walls - by design - then the person expects to feel the weight when they pick it up. That's the balance I am thinking of - a matching more or less of actual weight and perceived weight.

As Curtis mentioned - I do like to turn things with a little 'Wow' factor to them and that is simply to turn something thin so as to remove the weight and let the person be surprised when they pick it up. Never ceases to bring a smile to their faces - which I hope then translates into sales - should you decide to sell your work! :D

[Mark Burge]

As I was reading this thread, I picked up a HF of mine that is a sphere about the size of a softball. I realized that, just as Steve said, it matched my expectation. It feels about as heavy as a soft ball. Also, the walls aren't all the same thickness by design, because I wanted it to sit on its round bottom, so I left more weight in the bottom.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I very seldom turn bowls walls less than 1/4". I sat in on a demo given by Al Stirt and Larry Hasiak. Both said the same thing. Turn a bowl with 1/8" walls and a hollow form with a 3/4" or smaller opening. Get it out of your system then turn bowls with a decent thickness.

[RL Johnson]

Turn it thin for other wood turners, turn it thicker to sell. Most people believe they are getting more when there is some weight to the piece.

[Dave Ogren]

I have been wondering about the same question, and have tried to make it into a formula. I do not re-turn the bowls. The boys that return go to a 10% wall thickness. What I came up with is to turn to 3% to 5% wall thickness. I will increase it just a bit for a special lip treatment or if there is a large knot that I don't want to loose. In other words a 10 inch bowl with about 5/16" to 3/8" wall thickness. It seems that they still look good and can be used.Thanks for posting that question.

Dave

[Jay Jagerson]

Did not think this was going to such a hot topic!

Thanks everyone for there input.


Jay