Getting End Grain Tear Out with Roundover Bit (ALDER)

[Nick Sorenson]

I'm rounding over some guitar bodies (Alder) with a 7/16" Roundover bit and getting a good amount of tearout on the end grain.

Is there anything I can do to help minimize this a bit?

thanks!
Nick

[Brent Ring]

Lighter, multiple passes, taking a shallower cut on each pass until the desired depth is achieved. Using a very sharp (Whiteside, Bosch, CMT, etc.. ) bit. The rest of the 'real' experts can chime with better suggestions. Those are the things that I do.

[Nick Sorenson]

Lighter, multiple passes, taking a shallower cut on each pass until the desired depth is achieved. Using a very sharp (Whiteside, Bosch, CMT, etc.. ) bit. The rest of the 'real' experts can chime with better suggestions. Those are the things that I do.

I didn't put that down but the router is an old 1/2" shank Rockwell and the bit is a Whiteside.

[Ed Hazel]

When I start getting unacceptable tear out on end grain I grab a new bit and put the old one in the to be sharpened box.
Here is a link to some good bit information http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/ToolTestRouterBits.pdf Whiteside and Eagle seem to be the best. That being said some pieces of wood just will non behave, try doing it in 2 or 3 passes.

Bits need to be sharpen after about 1000 feet of cutting you could try a card sharpener to touch up your bit.

[glenn bradley]

I generally risk end grain tearout as I pass the midpoint and start routing "uphill". A roundover bit doesn't really give you too much flexibility in direction. In problem woods like shedua I have changed to a larger bearing to minimize the first pass and done climb cutting. Then I climb cut a final pass with the regular bearing. Like my cuts, your guitar body is probably curved and therefor you can't just use the fence to minimize the depth of cut. That is why I used different sized bearings.

[Nick Sorenson]

I generally risk end grain tearout as I pass the midpoint and start routing "uphill". A roundover bit doesn't really give you too much flexibility in direction. In problem woods like shedua I have changed to a larger bearing to minimize the first pass and done climb cutting. Then I climb cut a final pass with the regular bearing. Like my cuts, your guitar body is probably curved and therefor you can't just use the fence to minimize the depth of cut. That is why I used different sized bearings.

You're 100% right. On a guitar it's curved and all kinds of odd shapes (strat and tele) for the router to cover. So it's going through all kinds of end grain areas.

I thought of trying a different bearing. Is there perhaps a bearing cap (something that will rest on the bearing to extend it a bit)?

Your idea of swapping the bearing is a good one. Does it take a while? I'm guessing just unscrew the 1/2" bearing and screw in the larger one?


When I start getting unacceptable tear out on end grain I grab a new bit and put the old one in the to be sharpened box.
Here is a link to some good bit information http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/ToolTestRouterBits.pdf Whiteside and Eagle seem to be the best. That being said some pieces of wood just will non behave, try doing it in 2 or 3 passes.

Bits need to be sharpen after about 1000 feet of cutting you could try a card sharpener to touch up your bit.

btw I didn't put this down but the router bit is brand new (Whiteside).

[glenn bradley]

Your idea of swapping the bearing is a good one. Does it take a while? I'm guessing just unscrew the 1/2" bearing and screw in the larger one? btw I didn't put this down but the router bit is brand new (Whiteside).

I chuck the bit in the router table to help avoid slipping and cutting my pinkies. Then use the allen wrench that fits the little hexhead screw. It's just as easy as you think. Keep track of the washers and spacers. These come in various shapes for different bearings and such.

There are kits of bearings available from the usual places but (after spending money on them) I find that just purchasing the bearings I need is more cost effective. I have quite a selection and am always happy that I've got them. They do bring other options into your thinking when approaching a cut.

Holbren carries all the Whiteside stuff and offers a 10% discount to SMC members and cheap shipping. If you cannot figure out which bearing you are after off the website, you can email Brian. When I emailed him I left my cell number and he just called me back the next day.

[Ed Labadie]

You might consider trying one of these http://www.freudtools.com/t-quadra-cut.aspx

This design has worked very good for me on raised panel shaper cutters.

Ed

[Nick Sorenson]

Oh!! Forgot to mention this... but the whiteside bearing is spinning when I'm cutting some of the time. It's leaving a grove in the wood's edge (not a big groove, but it's there).

Could there be something I need to do with the bearing to give it less friction? Do I need to oil the bearing or something I'm overlooking or maybe let it break in a bit?

I had a cheap PriceCutter roundover that wasn't as sharp as the whiteside but it didn't leave any marks in the edge of the wood.

[Nick Sorenson]

Oh!! Forgot to mention this... but the whiteside bearing is spinning when I'm cutting some of the time. It's leaving a grove in the wood's edge (not a big groove, but it's there).

Could there be something I need to do with the bearing to give it less friction? Do I need to oil the bearing or something I'm overlooking or maybe let it break in a bit?

I had a cheap PriceCutter roundover that wasn't as sharp as the whiteside but it didn't leave any marks in the edge of the wood.

Just ordered a 5/8" bearing from Whiteside. The support there was great. Also the bearing is a little tight because of having new grease. He recommended that I soak the bearing in solvent (lacquer thinner) for a bit to help break down the grease a little. I'm going to try 3 in 1 oil on top of the bearing first though. It's in a table router so gravity will pull the oil down into the bearing. It's just a little tight. It's getting better with use.

Whiteside's support is great and it's the sharpest roundover bit I've used. Sharpening is only $5 I believe (From Whiteside).

[glenn bradley]

Sharpening is only $5 I believe (From Whiteside).

Isn't it great to find one of the good guys. They're even made in America. They will do solid carbide spirals bits for $8 which my local guys won't do. I'll have to wait till I have a decent number of bits requiring treatment to make the shipping from SoCal to NC make sense but it happens eventually.

Glad they were able to help you and I hope it solves your problem.