Next Project: NYW Router Table

[Augusto Orosco]

I have been practicing by making shop furniture so I can later graduate to pieces that could actually be used inside the house without embarrassing myself. After a couple of very simple but successful shop projects (like a planer cart and a Wood-Whisperer inspired outfeed table), I decided to build Norm’s Router Table as my ‘graduation shop piece’.

I am starting my research and a few of my thoughts/questions are:

1) I need mine to be mobile, so I am thinking on using some 4" SES Casters I bought a while ago. The casters lock pretty well, but I don’t know how they will stack up to the vibration produced by my Freud 2 1/2HP. Do any of you have any experience with casters and router tables? Also, the casters would add 4” of height to the table's original design. I am 5’10 and since the router table is not a workbench (i.e. I wouldn’t be using it for extended periods of time), I am thinking that I could go ahead without modifying the plans and live with an slightly taller than usual table.

2) I am a little worried about making my own top, insert and fence. This is the most critical part for a good functioning table and I don’t know if it’s something I want to tackle yet given my little experience. I was instead thinking about buying a top/fence combo. Any potential drawbacks from doing so? From those of you who have bought table tops, which ones would you like/recommend? I have been looking at Rockler’s and Woodpeckers.

3) Also with respect to the top, I found a post here from someone who had his top on hinges for easy access to the inside of the table. It sounds like a good idea, but with the weight of the top + router, I wonder how it should be executed best. Which hinges (or mechanism) would work for this?

Any inputs on any of these or other thoughts are greatly appreciated!

[Nick Lazz]

I have casters on my router tables, and vibration has not been a problem. They do need to lock though.

For my tob I used two peices of plywood with laminate on both sides to protect from warpage. I edgebanded it with solid oak. Turned out great. Not as hard as it seems.

Also, if you buy a router lift and plate it should come with a template. I bought mine from Woodpeckers along with their fence system.

Good luck!

[Stan Mitchell]

Great project. I built one over the summer and it's a dream to use.

1) 4" casters will make it set pretty high - mine has 3" wheels on an unmodified plan. (I like the height, but I'm 6'-3") You might consider leaving the bottom 4 or so inches off - which is just wasted space if you're putting wheels on it.

You won't have any vibration. The cabinet is heavy once completed and loaded up. Even heavier than you might think.

And did I mention . . . the cabinet is heavy - really heavy. ;)

2) The top is the fun part! You can be creative and customize to your tastes - colors, hardware, etc. I used two pieces of 3/4" MDF and glued and screwed it together as shown in the video. Rather than oak, I had some extra purple heart that I trimmed the top with.

3) No hidges on mine, but would make a great mod.

[Augusto Orosco]

That's all great advice Nick and Stan. Thanks!

Re: height with casters, I realize now it might be too high for me. I believe the plan calls for a toe-kick ? (don't know for sure, haven't bought the plans yet). Probably the best solution would be to get rid of the toe kick in lieu of the casters (I think that's what Stan was referring to)

I also think I will give the home made top a try then...it will just become a longer project :o

Any feedback on the Rockler aluminum plates? They have a version with holes for my router, but I believe there is no hole for the over the table lift mechanism, so I would have to drill one. If I am going to be drilling one hole anyway, maybe I should just buy a blank plate and drill all the holes myself. This way I won't have any of the unnecessary extra holes for the other router models.

Anyone with ideas for the hinged top?