Dovetail Saws!

[John Coloccia]

I'm in the market for some nice dovetail and crosscut saws (think tenons). I'm open to anything, including big bow saws like Klausz (holy cow, what's with that bent blade he uses in that 3 minute dovetail video? WOW). Right now I'm just using a cheap "Gents" saw for...well...pretty much everything. I have a Dozuki I use as well, but I've never really mastered it for fine work (at least it doesn't feel like I have) and I'm a little tired of damaging the blades on it also (snapped teeth, bent metal, etc). Technique, technique...I know, I know.

By and large, I don't use the table saw very often anymore. Only for really heavy work. For more delicate stuff, it's mostly handsaws. I just find it's so much easier and faster to do things by hand, and I'm slowly de-evolving into a full fledged neander, but now it's time to upgrade to some quality saws.

Also what are you guys using to resaw? Frame saws? Bow saws? I've done it with a bow saw years and years ago, just for kicks. I remember it being quite easy, actually...much easier than I would have thought. And sooo nice and quiet :)

[Casey Gooding]

There are sooooo many nice saws available now, it's hard to make recommendations. I have original Independence (pre Lie-Nielsen) dovetail and carcass saws and am very happy with them. I Also use Lie-Nielsen Tenon saws and can't complain. I did own the Adria dovetail saw and it is a fine saw. I just found I like a bit longer blade. Other good bets are Grammercy (from Tools for Working Wood), Eccentric and the new Veritas saws from Lee Valley. There are more and it's a much longer list than you would have found ten years ago. It's a good time to be a Neander.

[Don Dorn]

In the Western saw venue, I'm afraid my experience lies only with the gents saw from Crown that didn't work worth a crap when it was new. After tuning, sharpening and narrowing the kerf, it became a fast cutting saw that I used exclusively -- until I bought the Veritas dovetail saw. It's very nice and if I decide I need a tenon saw, I won't hesitate to get another Veritas.

That said - a friend has the Lie-Nielsen and it's also a very nice saw. Apparantly though, they can all be tuned better as he went to a Frank Klausz seminar and Frank took his saw, then gave it back to him a short time later working even better.

[David Gendron]

I will had two or three other one, it depends on how long you want to wait!! There is Wenzloff & Sons, who curently carry two line of saws, one sold by LV and the other one by The Best Thing. There is also Medallion Tools, great saws, awsome service, customized tote! And, there is the maker of the best large tenon saws yet, Bad Axe Saws by Mark Harrel of Techno Primitive! And I'm sur there is more, like Pax saws and the like! I do have two LN DT saws for take...
Good luck with your saws serch!

[Martin Peek]

Don't forget the older dovetail saws (pre-1950). If you are on a tight budget, you can usually find a Disston, already tuned up or to be cleaned up. There are many around, and can be very good saws.

I personally think that the handle counts for a lot, so spend some time/money getting a good fit. I usually can tell by the squeeze of the calluses under my middle and pinky knuckles. I don't have much experience with Gent's saws.

If your budget is over 100 bucks, there are many options including: Wenzloff, Medallion, Adria, Lie-Nielsen, Eccentric, Gramercy, Bad Axe (Tenon), Veritas (less than 100). Some have wait lists.

[Graham Hughes (CA)]

I have three frame saws a la Frid and Klausz and I find them hard to use on smaller stock. At least the models I have are very top heavy which strains my wrists a little meaning I can't use them for as long as I can a smaller saw (yes, I have the smaller Highland framesaw, and it's a big improvement but not quite what I want). On the other hand they work like really big backsaws, which is very appealing sometimes. I wouldn't use them in anything smaller than 3/4" stock now, though; I've done it before but I find my smaller backsaws work out better.

As far as those go, my favorite is an old Spear & Jackson I got from .. somewhere, can't remember, but it took a good amount of tuning to get it to a good state. I screwed around with quite a few at WIA when I was there, and pretty much everybody had nice ones. I was quite surprised by how pleasant to use (and fast!) the Veritas saws are, although I think I preferred the Gramercy. Since I managed to get the S&J tuned up nicely I didn't go home with any of them.

Anything new and cheaper than the Veritas seems to require way, way too much work to get to an acceptable state IMHO. If you're on a real budget you could get one from eBay, but I wouldn't want to do that for your first backsaw. If you get a bent one they can be fixed but it's a bear of a job.

[Tim Dorcas]

I have tried a few saws this week. My favorite was Rob Cosman's new dovetail saw. While it was the heaviest of the bunch, it was also incredibly well balanced. I kept going back to this saw whenever my instructor wasn't using it. Of course it is also the most expensive saw of the ones I used. The least expensive and my second favorite was the Lee Valley/Veritas Dovetail saw. They have two different ones - a 14 tpi and a 20 tpi. I used the 14tpi one with great results. One of the hardest things is to get saw started. The Veritas saw was one of the easiest to get going. While it looks a bit unconventional, it has a nice weight and feels quite good in the hand. I also personally own a Lie Nielson dovetail saw. This is not a bad saw by any means but when I had a chance to try out a few others, I found its cut to be a little coarse. It is also about double in price what the Veritas saw is.

I'll be interested to know what you get

[John Coloccia]

Right now I'm leaning towards the LV trifecta, and maybe make some bow saws for larger parts. I have to be honest that I didn't really like how the LN felt. The grip felt funny in my hand. I've been hearing so many great things about Cosman's saw and I'm certain I'll pick one of those up too at some point, but I'd rather start simple.

[Richard Magbanua]

I have a few LN's -the progressive pitch DT, coarse rip carcass and the x-cut carcass. I started with a dozuki and a Crown Gents saw.

First of all, after narrowing the kerf of the gents saw with a water stone just a tad, It worked really well, it was just a bit more difficult to hold consistently.

I'm tickled pink with all of the LN saws. It's hard to pick a favorite of the bunch. The x-cut actually cuts as smooth as the dozuki which was a big surprise.

With regards to the best saws for you, when you're talking about the premium saws available to us today, I think it depends on things like fit, aesthetics and patience but not quality. It seems that quality is pretty consistent across the main bunch of premium saws. I tried a Wenzloff saw before and while it was a beautiful saw and cut well the handle seemed a bit small for me. The LV saws were both about perfect in fit and cut but ultimately I gave-in to the aesthetics of the traditional look of the Lie-Nielsens.
Patience is an important consideration because with some of the saw makers you'll need to wait a bit before receiving your purchase. For example, I really loved the Eccentric tools saws that Andrew Lunn offers and would have ordered one but he's on a 14-month wait. I'm working on a dresser project now and I want to use hand-cut joinery for a lot of it. The Lie-Nielsen booth had saws ready to take home so that's what I got. I didn't see that as much of a compromise if any.
Above any of those considerations, I think the most important thing when it comes to hand saws is PRACTICE. I was a bit concerned with the LN Progressive pitch DT saw at first because it has a different feel compared to a consistent tooth pattern. But after 200 practice cuts It felt really good. Some people think it's the saw to blame if it catches or it's hard to start when it's usually the user's fault. Sawing by hand takes practice and a lot of touch.
Good luck with your purchase and let us know what you decide. And don't forget the pictures!

[Richard Magbanua]

That sounds like a great plan! Please post pics when you get them. You should be very happy with that purchase.

Take Care!

[gary Zimmel]

Good luck with the new saw purchase John.

A little warning though.
This slope is quite slippery and I bet it won't be your last....
These hand tools have a nasty habit of multipling on there own.:D

[Danny Thompson]

Consider the Gramercy Toolworks set from Joel at toolsforworkingwood.com

Gramercy's dovetail saw won Popular Woodworking's Best New Tools 2007. Their crosscut carcase saw won PW's Best New Tools 2008. Their rip carcase saw won Woodworking Magazine's Autumn 2009 Premium Carcase Saw tool test.

[Sean Hughto]

I love my Gramercy's! Hav ethe rip and crosscut carces as well as having made the kit dt:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2425/3929860183_bdbc77a648.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3052/2942703239_f58725f808.jpg

[Rick Erickson]

John, take a look at the Rob Cosman saws. They are very nice. I don't think his site is listing the cross-cut saw yet but he has both dovetail and cross-cut. I have them both and sold my Lie-Nielsen shortly after aquiring his.

[John Coloccia]

Is his saw really that much better than a LV or a Gramercy?

Heavens....so many saws, so little time.

[gary Zimmel]

Hi Rick.

How do you like that new xcut saw from Rob.
I picked mine up a couple of weeks ago at the show here.

Nice saw, real nice.

In my opinion John the saws from Rob are first rate.
I learnt to do dovetails with the LN but my go to dovetail saw now is Robs.
This new xcut saw is just as good IMHO.

If they are in your budget they are really worth a look...

[Phillip Pattee]

Here is a list of quality western style saws that you can check out. Many of them have already been mentioned, but there are a few others here for you to check out. Lots of choices these days.:)

Lee Valley Veritas dovetail saw
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=64007&cat=1,42884 (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=64007&cat=1,42884)
Wenzloff & Sons at Lee Valley dovetail saw
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=57113&cat=1,42884,57152 (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=57113&cat=1,42884,57152)
Wenzloff & Sons at the Best Things the Kenyon style
http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/wenzloff_saws.htm (http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/wenzloff_saws.htm)
Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1237 (http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1237)
Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw sold by Craftsman Studio (free shipping over $75) This store also sells the Veritas saw, but it is <$75.
http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/A500.htm (http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/A500.htm)
Gramercy dovetail saw from Tools for Working Wood
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=GT-DSAW9.XX&Category_Code=TS (http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=GT-DSAW9.XX&Category_Code=TS)

Adria dovetail saw
http://www.adriatools.com/handsaw/dovetail_saw.html (http://www.adriatools.com/handsaw/dovetail_saw.html)
Eccentric Tools dovetail Saw
http://www.eccentricwoodcraft.com/page3_toolworks.html (http://www.eccentricwoodcraft.com/page3_toolworks.html)
Spehar Tools dovetail saw
http://spehar-toolworks.com/dovetailsaws.html (http://spehar-toolworks.com/dovetailsaws.html)
Medallion Toolworks dovetail saw
http://www.medalliontools.com/OurDovetailSaws.html (http://www.medalliontools.com/OurDovetailSaws.html)
Thomas Flynn & Co. makers of Pax, Lynx, Roberts & Lee, and Crown dovetail saws
http://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/acatalog/Pax_Range.html (http://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/acatalog/Pax_Range.html)
Adam Cherubini dovetail saw
http://www.adamcherubini.com/Dovetail_Saws.html (http://www.adamcherubini.com/Dovetail_Saws.html)
There are also other saw makers, but they don’t specifically advertise a dovetail saw. The one that comes to mind is Technoprimitives.
Bad Axe Toolworks (Technoprimitives)
http://www.technoprimitives.com/bad_axe_tool_works_saws (http://www.technoprimitives.com/bad_axe_tool_works_saws)

[Sean Hughto]

Hmmm ... "that much better?" What do you think?

Is a Lexus that much better than a Mercedes or BMW or Audi or Porsche or Ferrari or Cadillac or ....????

It's a matter of preference. Can you already cut good dovetails? Because I've tried a lot of quality saws and I have to say that they all were far better than good enough. Will people have favorites? Sure. But my favorite will not necessarily be yours anymore with luxury dovetail saws than with luxury automobiles. Find one that appeals to you and give it a try. If you think another might suit you better after a while, buy it, and if it does, you will almost assuredly have no trouble selling your old one if you need to for a very good price. Quality holds its value.

[george wilson]

Most of my finest work before I got into saw making,and before most,if not all of these new high class saws came along, was done with old Disston back saws,and a few thinner German dovetail saws made in the 50's and 60's.

Personally,I use only my .015" original Groves dovetail,and other .015" dovetail saws I made,for cutting dovetails. I find the very thin kerf is more inducive to accurate work.

I think saw makers are afraid to make them that thin,though some very old originals were made so. I think they are afraid users might easily kink them,etc. I never had a problem with any of the .015" saws we made for Williamsburg shops,and they were the most highly prized of all our saws in shops where precision work is done.

[Larry Fox]

There is Wenzloff & Sons, who curently carry two line of saws, one sold by LV and the other one by The Best Thing.

Not to hijack the thread but can someone explain the difference? I have one I bought from Lee Valley pretty much as soon as they started selling them.

Thanks in advance for your time.

[Derek Cohen]

Most of my finest work before I got into saw making,and before most,if not all of these new high class saws came along, was done with old Disston back saws,and a few thinner German dovetail saws made in the 50's and 60's.

Personally,I use only my .015" original Groves dovetail,and other .015" dovetail saws I made,for cutting dovetails. I find the very thin kerf is more inducive to accurate work.

I think saw makers are afraid to make them that thin,though some very old originals were made so. I think they are afraid users might easily kink them,etc. I never had a problem with any of the .015" saws we made for Williamsburg shops,and they were the most highly prized of all our saws in shops where precision work is done.

Hi George

I'm curious about the amount of set on your Groves. It does not make much sense to me to have a thin blade with much, if any, set at all. If so, what about binding - a thinner blade will be more vulnerable to buckling - so do you wax your blade? Do you need to do so?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Graham Hughes (CA)]

Not to hijack the thread but can someone explain the difference? I have one I bought from Lee Valley pretty much as soon as they started selling them.

The LV ones are sort of "modern traditional" designs, and are very similar visually to the Gramercy, the Lie-Nielsens, etc. They're different but different in detail. The Kenyon saws are very different; I'm not 100% sure I like them but they're definitely unique.

[Graham Hughes (CA)]

I've used about half the saws on your list and they're all excellent. With one exception; the Flynn/Pax/whatever saws come with way too much set, are not as sharp as I would have expected, don't seem to be tensioned properly and have blocky handles. In addition to all of this I find a 20 tpi dovetail saw to be very irritating to use in anything thicker than a drawer side. I find it took me a similar amount of effort to get the Pax up to speed as it did to tune up an old backsaw and I still prefer the backsaw. Since their prices are not that much different from some of the other premium saw prices I would pass on them personally.

[Jim Koepke]

How much difference is there in how makers cut teeth into metal?

Other than the points to the inch and the rake what really makes one saw more desirable than another?

My Disston from the 1950s can make good square cross cuts.

My older Bishop saw can rip cut quite straight.

If my fancy were to buy a new saw, the feel of the handle would likely have a lot to do with my purchase. That is the main complaint against my current users. A thinner saw plate may also be nice.

If a saw could leave the sides of a kerf as smooth as planed wood, then I would be doing what ever it would take to convince my wife that we needed one or two as the case may be.

Cutting new teeth on one saw taught me a few mistakes was not the end of the world. There is another old saw plate that needs teeth and a handle in the shop. When a bit of spare time comes along something will be done with that.

Maybe one of my old pull saw blades can get filed down and turned into a western back saw.

jim

[Rick Erickson]

Gary - love the xcut saw. can't wait for a panel saw :-)

John - good question. When you get to this price range any of the saws will cut well (assuming they are set properly). I liken it to the difference between a Lee Valley plane and a Lie-Nielsen plane. Both are nice planes but the Lie-Nielsen takes the quality and fit-n-finish a step further. Rob does the same with his saw. I was cutting DTs just fne with my Lie-Nielsen but then took them up a notch with Rob's saw. The tooth design, weight, feel, etc. is a step above Lie-Nielsen (IMO). I think the thing that sets it over the edge for me is the weight - it makes for VERY little effort when cutting. If you are cutting a lot of DTs or any other joint for that matter this is a must have (IMO).

Don't get me wrong. Many of the saws listed on this thread will do you just fine. Sean stated it perfectly. I guess I'm just a Ferrari kinda guy.

[Mike K Wenzloff]

Not to hijack the thread but can someone explain the difference? I have one I bought from Lee Valley pretty much as soon as they started selling them.

Thanks in advance for your time.
Hello Larry,

If you are asking about the difference between the W&S saws from either LV or TBT...there are a couple differences. Most differences are in the "it doesn't matter" category.

The main usable difference is that the LV DT saw is 15 ppi, the TBT is 16 ppi. Both use the same thickness steel steel (0.020"). Both have 9" blades.

Other differences are: the LV uses solid brass that is slotted to retain the blade, the TBT uses traditional folded brass. The LV uses Bubinga for the handle, the TBT European Beech. There is a slightly different hang of the handle as we simply pattern them after two different English makers. The LV Moulson replica is a slightly longer hand-hold than the Kenyon replica. The LV has a parallel toothline to back, the TBT Kenyon is slightly tapered so the toe is lower than at the heel.

That's pretty much it.

Take care, Mike

[Larry Fox]

Wow, thanks Mike and everyone else who responded, this is very helpful. I absolutely love the saw that I have - feels great to me.

[Rick Erickson]

Awesome Larry - that looks like one sweet saw. Would like to get my hands on one to try it out.

Mike - if you are still reading - I looked on the LV site and it states the DT ppi is 14. If that is wrong you may want to let them know.

[Pedder Petersen]

Mike - if you are still reading - I looked on the LV site and it states the DT ppi is 14. If that is wrong you may want to let them know.

Hi Rick,

LeeValley states 14tpi wich is the same as 15ppi.

BTW: I never understood the reason for ppi. It seams unlogical to me: If you have a 10" saw filed 13ppi how much points has the saw? 120? 121? And what does 4 1/2ppi mean????

Cheers
Pedder

[John Coloccia]

You guys have talked me into trying out Cosman's dovetail saw. I beileve I will go to Wenzloff for a crosscut/carcass saw. There's just something about the Lee Valley's that I just can't bring myself to ordering it, I'm afraid. I wish there was a store around here that I could just see one in person. That might change my mind.

Thanks for all the help.

[Rick Erickson]

Thanks Pedder, I didn't catch that or even know there was a difference.

John, I think you will be pleased. If you have a local woodcraft around you may find it there and save the cost / time in shipping. BTW: He also has a xcut saw (although it isn't on his site yet). Did you check out the video on his site? It illustrates the finer points of the saw.

[george wilson]

Derek,My thin saws have just enough set to saw without binding. I haven't measured it. They saw a kerf about the width of a sharp pencil line drawn with a #2 pencil,if that helps any. I have also a few older straight handle German made saws that are about .015" also. They are probably from the 1950's or 60's. I like my fine saws a lot.

We made repros of a Dalaway 18th.C. dovetail for the shops in the museum. The Cabinet maker's shop,and Mack Headley prized them highly. They were,as was the original,.015" thick,like my Groves dovetail.

[David Gendron]

IMO LV is as good or better finished than LN....

[David Gendron]

Like one and others said, It all come down to what is feels good to you! Andrew Lunn Saws, are said to be THE BEST DT saw ever made by every body who had the chance to try them! Is it gona make you a better sawer? I use to XC ski to a fairly hight level and I had all the best gear one would want, the same gear as the top athlets in the world... That that made me a faster skier? NO, I was just as fast as I could be! So any saw, you choose to buy, as long as it is a good saw, from reputable saw maker, and practice a lot with it you will do great!!

[Jim Koepke]

Like one and others said, It all come down to what is feels good to you! Andrew Lunn Saws, are said to be THE BEST DT saw ever made by every body who had the chance to try them! Is it gona make you a better sawer? I use to XC ski to a fairly hight level and I had all the best gear one would want, the same gear as the top athlets in the world... That that made me a faster skier? NO, I was just as fast as I could be! So any saw, you choose to buy, as long as it is a good saw, from reputable saw maker, and practice a lot with it you will do great!!

I think a lot of people sell themselves short. With just a little practice to go on and inspiration from others I have been able to sharpen a few saws and even cut new teeth in one.

I have no quibble with a quality modern saw other than its price. By doing my own, I am learning a lot about the different aspects of ppi, rake and fleam in saw sharpening and how to vary them to make saws cut more to my liking.

As wonderfully as the premium saws can cut, my taste might be for one that is not as aggressive or maybe more so.

I think someone mentioned a saw cut too slow for them at 20 ppi. Smaller teeth will cut slower but can leave a smoother cut.

Less set and thinner saw plates mean a thinner and possibly smoother kerf.

I still think most important is if it feels good enough in use to make you want to find reasons to use it.

Maybe I should copyright that line.

jim

[Jack Camillo]

Nice parking lot for your saws, Sean.
jack

[David Gendron]

+1 on Sean till! note to my self... I have to make one for my saws!!!

[Scott Stafford]

If you are choosing amongst the top brands, go with the one that fits your hand best and is most comfortable. Chances are you'll be the most accurate with this choice.

Scott in Montana

[David Keller NC]

You guys have talked me into trying out Cosman's dovetail saw. I beileve I will go to Wenzloff for a crosscut/carcass saw. There's just something about the Lee Valley's that I just can't bring myself to ordering it, I'm afraid. I wish there was a store around here that I could just see one in person. That might change my mind.

Thanks for all the help.

John - Not sure if you're still reading this thread, but there's a point about this that might help allieviate the "paralysis by analysis" aspect that all of these sawmakers have endgendered in us tool pigs in the last 3 years:

I have 5 saws that can be called dovetail saws (i.e., they have a back, they're filed rip, and they're less than 10" long). 3 are new, high-quality but not high-end saws - none of the mentioned sawmakers sell high end saws with the possible exception of Andrew Lunn's original model. All of these saws are extraordinarily cheap for what they are, which is a dovetail saw manufactured to the standards of late 18th through the 19th centuries. The "reasonable" saws that are new aren't really saws - they are saw shaped objects made by Crown, Pax, Lynx and others that are not acceptable. As has been mentioned, they have way too much set, chunky, thick handles that have sharp corners specifically designed to wear blisters in your hand after a few cuts, and their balance is way off.

Lee Valley is the sole exception - they do make a functional, if not exactly traditional, saw that is a good performer.

The point of this reply, however, is to suggest that whatever saw you choose from the above lists will be an entirely satisfactory, well-loved tool after you practice with it. Of those 5 saws that I mentioned, every one of them behaves and feels a little differently, and for that reason I stick with a favorite that was made by Drabble and Sanderson around the turn of the 20th century. But the reason I like this saw over the new ones really doesn't have anything to do with the way they cut - it's because the brass back on the Drabble and Sanderson is extraordinarily thick and heavy, and my preference as a sawyer is to let the weight of the saw do all of the work.

But before this, I was very proficient with my original L-N "Independence" dovetail saw - and there is nothing wrong with it. So whatever you choose, you will have gotten the "best" saw, because none of them can be "best" until it breaks you in.:)

[John Coloccia]

Funny you should post that. I ended up getting my hands on a LV saw and decided that I really did like it, so I ordered their set of 3 saws.

I hear what you're saying about the practice. Right now I just use an old...uhm....Garlick (does that sound right?) gent's saw. The thing is pretty unimpressive and flimsy, and it wasn't much better the first day I bought it. Still, though, I can get some nice cuts out of it now that I'm used to it. Oh how I struggled with it at first, though. I'm actually on my second one, in fact. It's no better than the first, but I really like it for fine work in thin stock. So not a bad saw, but as I said it's not very impressive. For $15 it's pretty darn nice, though :)

Anyhow, the analysis by paralysis comment is dead on in this case. It's funny because I'm normally the one that quickly makes up his mind and drives forward. I don't know why I was hemming and hawing so much over a stupid saw.

[Mark Roderick]

Write "Lie-Nielsen," "Lee Valley," and "Rob Cosman" on a dart board, throw a dart blind, and buy the one you hit. You'll be very happy.

My own experience was using a Freud for years and being pretty unhappy, buying a Lie-Nielsen, taking it out of the box, setting up a test piece of wood, and soon exclaiming "So THAT's how you cut dovetails!"

A great saw makes that much difference, especially to the amateur. The professional can probably cut dovetails with a broom handle.

Good luck.

[Pete Paris]

I am in the same boat and have a list of saw sites. I wonder about the thin .020 thickness compared to the .022 thickness

Lee Valley Veritas dovetail saw
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=64007&cat=1,42884 (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=64007&cat=1,42884)
Wenzloff & Sons at Lee Valley dovetail saw
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=57113&cat=1,42884,57152 (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=57113&cat=1,42884,57152)
Wenzloff & Sons at the Best Things the Kenyon style
http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/wenzloff_saws.htm (http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/wenzloff_saws.htm)
Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1237 (http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1237)
Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw sold by Craftsman Studio (free shipping over $75) This store also sells the Veritas saw, but it is <$75.
http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/A500.htm (http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/A500.htm)
Gramercy dovetail saw from Tools for Working Wood
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Produ ct_Code=GT-DSAW9.XX&Category_Code=TS (http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=GT-DSAW9.XX&Category_Code=TS)

Adria dovetail saw
http://www.adriatools.com/handsaw/dovetail_saw.html (http://www.adriatools.com/handsaw/dovetail_saw.html)
Eccentric Tools dovetail Saw
http://www.eccentricwoodcraft.com/page3_toolworks.html (http://www.eccentricwoodcraft.com/page3_toolworks.html)
Spehar Tools dovetail saw
http://spehar-toolworks.com/dovetailsaws.html (http://spehar-toolworks.com/dovetailsaws.html)
Medallion Toolworks dovetail saw
http://www.medalliontools.com/OurDovetailSaws.html (http://www.medalliontools.com/OurDovetailSaws.html)
Thomas Flynn & Co. makers of Pax, Lynx, Roberts & Lee, and Crown dovetail saws
http://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/acatalog/Pax_Range.html (http://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/acatalog/Pax_Range.html)
Adam Cherubini dovetail saw
http://www.adamcherubini.com/Dovetail_Saws.html (http://www.adamcherubini.com/Dovetail_Saws.html)
There are also other saw makers, but they don’t specifically advertise a dovetail saw. The one that comes to mind is Technoprimitives.
Bad Axe Toolworks (Technoprimitives)
http://www.technoprimitives.com/bad_axe_tool_works_saws (http://www.technoprimitives.com/bad_axe_tool_works_saws)


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#8 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=1257036&postcount=8) (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/report.php?p=1257036)
Today, 1:26 AM

[Graham Hughes (CA)]

I am in the same boat and have a list of saw sites. I wonder about the thin .020 thickness compared to the .022 thickness


The chances of your noticing the difference between 0.020" and 0.022" is minimal. I have a bunch of backsaws with thicknesses ranging from 0.040" (a hardware store special) but usually hovering around 0.025" and 0.020" for the two finest. Do I notice this? No. Can I even detect this without a micrometer? No. The set varies and matters much more to me, and the smallest amount of set I've ever heard of someone deliberately introducing is on the order of 0.006" total (counting both sides). The burr left by sharpening is only a little smaller than that.

[derek sikes]

I don't regret spending the extra money on a modern "high-end" dovetail saw; my accuracy has drastically improved and I enjoy the process more. I'm working on learning to set and sharpen myself with antique saws which is another process I enjoy, but in the meantime it's nice to have a tool that works out of the box.

[george wilson]

One of our creekers has PM'ed me that he makes .015" saws. I am glad to hear that. My computer has been down for some days needing a new hard drive.

[David Gendron]

Are you alowed to gives his name? thank you !

[george wilson]

I don't know,David. Perhaps he will PM you if he's keeping track of this thread. He didn't want to post in this thread,so I'll leave it to him.

[Pedder Petersen]

I think Andrew Lunn makes this thin saws. http://www.eccentricwoodcraft.com/page3_toolworks.html

Cheers Pedder

[John Coloccia]

The Veritas saws showed up last night. All I can say is I'm VERY satisfied.