Using shaper for grooving and cutting box joints

[Richard Link]

I have had the good fortune of acquiring a european saw/shaper combo with a sliding table. In the past, I've primarily used cabinet saw approaches with a stacked dado set to cut grooves and box joints. Given that I now have a shaper (at least its on the way), I'm intrigued by the option of using stacked cutters to cut box joints for drawer construction, as well as using the shaper to cut drawer bottom grooves. I will have a power feeder, in case that is relevant to the discussion.

For the purposes of making a stack of cutters and rub collars to, say, cut 1/4 inch box joints or 1/2 inch box joints, do knowledgeable folks have a recommendation for type and brand of shaper cutters? I have a 1 1/4" spindle and am not looking for spectacularly expensive industrial cutters as I doubt I will run enough material through this setup to really justify the expense of insert tooling. Also, there seem to be "grooving" and "straight" cutters, and I'm frankly confused as to the difference.

To make 1/4 inch box joints, I would assume that I simply stack 1/4" straight cutters and 1/4" thick rub collars up to the the height to accomodate the drawer. Same would be true for 1/2" box joints. If I only buy 1/4" cutters and rub collars, can't I just stack em two at a time to make 1/2" grooves? I am anticipating gang clamping the drawer sides to the sliding table and simply sliding it through. For simple grooving (i.e. drawer bottoms), I can mount my power feeder sideways to pass the drawer side over the 1/4 inch cutter. This seems like a very fast way to make multiple drawers.

To my uninitiated eye, investing in a bunch of these straight cutters seems like a versatile option as I can stack them and perhaps use them for tenoning, as well. Does any manufacturer sell these things in set form?

At any rate, am I off base here? Should I just invest in a dado set bored for my saw and go back to doing this the old way?

Pardon my ignorance about some of these shaper issues. I'm excited to start exploring these options but don't really have a great source for detailed advice other than the forum.

Rick

[Josiah Bartlett]

Your box joints will be limited by the height of the spindle. You typically lose a half inch off the spindle height for the lock nut. I'm not sure how you could use the power feeder in this case anyway- you will need a coping sled to do this safely. As long as your straight cutters and rub collars are matched I don't see why you couldn't do this. You may need to shim a bit to get exact tight joints.

Oh, and nice way to disguise a gloat.

[Rod Sheridan]

I make drawer bottom grooves all the time on the shaper.

I climb cut them with a stock feeder, zero tearout, although it's messy as the dust extraction doesn't work well with a climb cut.

I have only done small drawer finger joints on the shaper, I only have two cutters so it's best for small objects.

Works very well, can't wait until I get my sliding table shaper though.

Regards, Rod.

[Dino Drosas]

I think there are easier and less expensive ways to do this. If you are making a 6" drawer, it will take 12 (1/2") cutters and the same amount of spacers. Finding the correct thickness spacers may also be a problem. Inexpensive cutters will cost 30 to 40 dollars each and there is the set up time. Stacking this many cutters may also present a problem in getting them tight enough not to spin which could weld them to the shaper shaft , then you throw the whole mess away. As far as cutting tenons, most cutters will only be 3 to 4 inches in diameter giving you a pretty short tenon. Stacked saw blades on the spindle running horizontally above the table work well using the slider on a Euro combo. A set of adjustable 220mm tennon cutters work better. First time you do this this, your bunns will really tighten up. Sounds like a helicopter was landing in my shop