I can't figure it out....

[Brian Hale]

Brand new CMT rip blade 24 tooth FTG. Mount it in the saw and get .0014" runout. Pertty darn good! Ok, start ripping some scrap oak, birch and poplar. I can push the wood as fast or as slow as i want and no complaining or burning.

The problem is from time to time the blade will resonate for a split second and the kerf will get about .015" wider. Like i said, only last for a split second. Dosen't seem to matter how fast i'm pushing or what type of wood and i can't make it happen.

Is it me or is there something funky with this blade??? :confused:

Brian

[Ted Shrader]

Brian -

What height is the blade above the wood? Try raising (or lowering) until you get about ¼" or a bit more blade showing. That may change the resonance of the blade.

Good luck,
Ted

[Brian Hale]

Thanks Ted
I generally try to get the blade about one full tooth above the wood. I've tried from just breaking the surface to about 1" high. It gets better when it's lower but still does it.

[Ted Shrader]

Brian -

Are all the teeth the same height? Was it ground correctly? Have you tried it WAAAAYYYY too high (carefully, of course)? Bearings in the saw's arbor are OK?

Hmmmmm,
Ted

[Brian Hale]

6 month old Bridgewood TS.
The rest of my blabes cut fine.
Teeth measure .0025 TIR on the diameter when mounted.
It's a very snug fit on the arbor
All the teeth look to be ground the same.
The highest i've had it is about 1 1/2" above the wood and thats plenty scary...

Brian

[Gary Max]

Makes no sence to me----you could always send it back and ask them to inspect the blade. If there isn't anything wrong you are just out the postage--just a guess. I won't think they would charge you to inspect it. You might try customer service and ask them first.
Pease of mind is very inportant---I always tell people if a machine doens't feel right-- quit useing it until you figure out why.

[Mike Wilkins]

Hey Brian, you did not mention it in your post, but is this a thin kerf blade?
My older model Rockwell/Unisaw would get the shakes whenever I used a
thin kerf blade. Went away when I changed to a regular kerf. You may want
to look into a blade stabilizer for future use.
And as others have stated, you don't need lots of teeth sticking up over
the board for ripping.
Good luck and watch those fingers.

[Gary Whitt]

Don't know if this will help, but Freud recommends 3-5 teeth in the cut at one time for ripping.
Freud's ripping blades (and I believe CMT also), have anti-kickback humps behind each tooth.
On 3/4" wood (with a 24t ripping blade with the anti-kickback humps), looking from the front of the saw, you'll have one tooth coming out of the wood (at the bottom), two in the wood and one just starting into the wood at the top.
That's in the 3-5 range.

That has always worked well for me.

Forrest, on the other hand, recommends a high blade height for their blades.
They don't have the anti-kickback humps behind each tooth.

Try this and see if it helps.

[Brian Hale]

The blade isn't a thin kerf; the teeth are .125 and the body .085.

The blade stabilizer is a good idea but i assumed a quality blade wouldn't need one.?.?

I'll get a hold of the folks i bought from, Cheyenne Sales, and see if they have any thoughts. I've gone all over this blade with indicators and mics and everything looks good.

Man, i hate returning stuff as much as i hate peas and carrots......

Brian

[Gary Max]

But at the same time you should be happy with the blade.
I see no fault in your concerns and think you should be talking with the folks over at Cheyenne Sales. Oh a blade that thick shouldn't need a stabilizer--in my opion.