Jet Bandsaw fun

[Robert Reece]

I am trying to decide what to do about my bandsaw. I have a Jet 18" bandsaw, about 10 years old (JWBS-18). It predates the triangular design they have now.
I have never had much success with this bandsaw, probably mostly due to blade choice. I have a 3/4" blade that came with the saw (maybe 4 tpi) and a 1/4" timberwolf blade.
I was about to order a new blade for it (Lenox Woodmaster I believe), but then I got to wondering if I really want to start down this path with this saw.
Here are it's ailments:
1. Table is not flat. Has about a 0.012" hump right in the middle where the throat plate is. This prevents me from reasonably squaring the blade to the table. In fact, I have it squared on one side and when I flip the square the other side the blade, it's off by quite a bit.
2. The fence doesn't lock on the rail. I have to use a spring clamp to keep it in place. The fence locking mechanism is not adjustable that I can see.
3. Saw vibrates beyond what I would expect. This may be due to the three point mobile base it is on. I have put some wood blocks under the base to stabilize and it seems better. However, when I watch a running blade closely, I can see the blade moves slightly side to side (and I can feel it through a pencil tip touching the running blade). I could also replace the belt with a link belt.
4. 1.5HP motor seems underpowered. Whenever I try to resaw anything, even just 4" poplar, it's a real chore for the saw. Again, could be a blade issue.
5. Can just barely tension my 3/4" blade to 25,000 psi, even though the spring is slightly beyond the 1.5" blade mark on the scale (1.5" blade, yeah right!)

Issues not yet checked out:
1. upper and lower wheel runout. I don't know if they are perfectly round or not.
2. upper and lower wheel alignment. The blade tracks fine so that might indicated the wheels are aligned.
3. Whether the frame stays straight when maximum tension on a blade. My guess is that back flexes some.


It seems like I could be $500 or more from making this saw work correctly and even then it might never be achievable.
I really like the concept of the bandsaw and resawing and that kind of stuff, I just haven't been able to realize the vision with this saw. I am considering just dropping the money on a new Agazzani, MiniMax or Laguna and keeping this Jet setup with a thin utility blade.

If anybody thinks this saw is saveable for less than $500, then please let me know. I am willing to spend the $100 on a new blade if that will make many of the other problems less of an issue.

[Jim Koepke]

Robert,

Not sure about all the answers, so will only comment on my experience. Being mostly a hand tool user my experience with power tools is limited. My father gave me an old Rockwell 10" band saw that did not get set up until recently. With the blades that came with it, it seemed impossible to do much re-sawing. It only has a 1/4 horse motor. Being a patient kind of guy would have me spending a good 15 minutes ripping a thick piece of pine. Just recently bought some new Olson brand coarser tooth pattern blades from Peach Tree and the first one has made a world of difference.

The vibration may be due to a tire on a wheel getting flat if the tension is left on the blade when the saw isn't being used for a while. Mine has a three winged knob for the blade adjustment. One wing has a big spot marked on it and the number 6. This is to let me know by where it sits when looking at the saw if it has tension or if it has been backed off.

I also do not trust the markings on the saw to set the blade tension. I use what others call the blade flutter test. Also, if the cut isn't right, then the blade is likely not set right.

As far as the table is concerned, that should have been taken care of when the saw was new. If it is too late to get the maker to take care of it, then maybe setting up a surface to lap the table might be the answer. If that is not feasible, then maybe making a table cover to correct the matter may be the best solution.

From what help my "toy" band saw has given me, it is in my future to keep looking for a deal on a full size band saw.

jim

[Chuck Wintle]

1. Table is not flat. Has about a 0.012" hump right in the middle where the throat plate is. This prevents me from reasonably squaring the blade to the table. In fact, I have it squared on one side and when I flip the square the other side the blade, it's off by quite a bit.
2. The fence doesn't lock on the rail. I have to use a spring clamp to keep it in place. The fence locking mechanism is not adjustable that I can see.
3. Saw vibrates beyond what I would expect. This may be due to the three point mobile base it is on. I have put some wood blocks under the base to stabilize and it seems better. However, when I watch a running blade closely, I can see the blade moves slightly side to side (and I can feel it through a pencil tip touching the running blade). I could also replace the belt with a link belt.
4. 1.5HP motor seems underpowered. Whenever I try to resaw anything, even just 4" poplar, it's a real chore for the saw. Again, could be a blade issue.
5. Can just barely tension my 3/4" blade to 25,000 psi, even though the spring is slightly beyond the 1.5" blade mark on the scale (1.5" blade, yeah right!)

Issues not yet checked out:
1. upper and lower wheel runout. I don't know if they are perfectly round or not.
2. upper and lower wheel alignment. The blade tracks fine so that might indicated the wheels are aligned.
3. Whether the frame stays straight when maximum tension on a blade. My guess is that back flexes some.




Is it possible to retighten the table with shims to reduce the hump in the middle? I have heard that the table will warp if not shimmed properly.

for the runout try a piece of chalk held near the wheel until it just touches the wheel. any out of round will be seen and shown immediately.

[Robert Reece]

I looked at the table and I don't see that rebolting it would help. The four connection points are all pretty close to the center hole. Maybe that is the problem since there is a hump in the middle - it's possible the outside of the table has sagged some over the years. I was pretty sure I checked over the table when I got the saw.

I also worked on the fence for 30 minutes or so and got it locking to the rail. However, it's not a great fence so it's not suitable for resawing.

[Myk Rian]

Sounds like you're trying to talk your self into a new saw. :)
Can the table be reground at a machine shop?

[Andrew Joiner]

You mention twice that it's probably the blade.

I would start with a good sharp 1/2" Blade Runner from Iturra or a WoodSlicer blade. Same blade but Iturra is less money. If you can't get it to resaw well with that, then go to the bigger $ solutions.

You can flatten a cast iron table with a belt sander. A fence can be clamped or try a dab of contact cement on the locking point.

Even a new saw will need a sharp blade to resaw well.

[Andrew Joiner]

http://www.spectrumsupply.com/kerfmaster-2.aspx

Seems to be the same as Woodslicer/Bladerunner, and cheaper, too

[Phil Thien]

http://www.spectrumsupply.com/kerfmaster-2.aspx

Seems to be the same as Woodslicer/Bladerunner, and cheaper, too

Interesting that the line below the pic says "Lenox," cause the specs that they give match the Woodslicer/Blade Runner to a Tee.

[george wilson]

I gave away one of those new about 10 years ago,to the millwork shop. It was quite flexible unless you shimmed all 4 corners to the floor. The blasted European bearings were a bit canted,and a real BEAR to lubricate the bottom ones,especially the one behind the blade. I hated the way they stuck way out to the sides. Just seemed in the way. I believe we bought some Carter bearings for it,but I still didn't like it.

I had decided to buy one for the tool shop as the old 20" Delta was pretty large to fit into that spot. Finally,I gave up,and got the Delta in there anyway.

The Jet could not hold a candle to the 1950's Delta.

[Phil Thien]

I looked at the table and I don't see that rebolting it would help. The four connection points are all pretty close to the center hole.

I'd go look at it again. I'd remove the table from the trunnions. I'd examine the trunnions to make sure the machining is flat and true. I'd check the bottom of the table and see if it is flat and true.

In other words, tear it apart and start checking things w/ a straight edge. Look for ways to flatten it (a wedge here, an extra washer there).

Even if you purchase a new bandsaw, there is no guarantee that it will arrive perfectly ready to use.

Better to take some time and examine what you already have before deciding what to do next. Even if you decide there is some underlying problem that you cannot address, you can let us know what it is and maybe someone here can provide some helpful information.

[Perry Holbrook]

I've got that same saw. And while it may not be the best saw ever built, it generates a good bit of business for me each month. A few things you might try. 1. Use an auxilary table. I use a piece of 3/4" MDF just laying on the table, clamped with a couple of cheap spring clamps. 2. Buy a new blade. You don't need an expensive blade. I have them made by my local sharpening shop, less than $20. ( You don't need a wide blade for the average re-saw, a 1/2" 3 or 4 TPI will do the job, just not as quick as some others.) 3. Keep an eye on the upper and lower bearing back blade guide. The lower one tends to get stuck at times. If it stops rotating, that's not a good thing. Soak it in WD-40 and then light oil from time to time.

Remember band saw blades wear out with use and need to be replaced when dull. Heat will dull a blade as quick as anything. That's why I have started using bi-metal blades only. If they can cut steel on metal saws, they should be able to cut wood and last longer.

Robert, you show you are in Central NC. If you are ever in Asheville you are welcome to drop by my place to see my set up with that saw.

Perry

[Robert Reece]

Robert, you show you are in Central NC. If you are ever in Asheville you are welcome to drop by my place to see my set up with that saw.
Perry

Thanks Perry, I will look you up some time. I travel that way a few times a year to see some family.

As for the Bandsaw, thanks for all the replies! Talk some sense into me!

One thing I wanted to do today was take some nearly 1" poplar down to 5/8". I was thinking it would be nice to just slice off a 1/4" on the bandsaw, then do the rest on the planer. Instead I filled up the dust collection bin by planing off 3/8". I think the Jet is probably capable of this with the right blade. I am not trying to produce high end veneer here.

I'll order a blade tomorrow and if I am happy with the cutting speed, then I'll set about fixing the other issues.

Thanks again to all for the sound advice.

[Andrew Joiner]

Even if you purchase a new bandsaw, there is no guarantee that it will arrive perfectly ready to use.



Amen to that , Phil !

That goes for Bandsaws and the blades,in my experience.

I just replaced a 5HP motor on a new Grizzly 21" saw. Great customer service. The motor was free under warranty, but I had to wait for the motor and had some trouble installing it. The good part is this new motor has no vibration and the original had a tiny bit. The saw is stout and performs well.

I got 3 new blades for it. None of them cut much smoother than the stock 1" Grizzly that came with the saw. One new Laguna carbide blade came with 3 chipped teeth by the weld . I will try a Bladerunner or kerfmaster soon.

Bandsaws are frustrating for me right now!

[Andrew Joiner]

2. Buy a new blade. You don't need an expensive blade. I have them made by my local sharpening shop, less than $20.

That's why I have started using bi-metal blades only.

Perry

Perry, Were do buy blades? What brand? A bi-metal for less than $20?

[Perry Holbrook]

Perry, Were do buy blades? What brand? A bi-metal for less than $20?

Most of my blades are made up by my local sharpening shop. The $20 blades are regular steel blades. The bi-metals are around $35 I think.

My go-to blade right now is an M-42 high speed steel blade, 1/4" with a .035 kerf, 10/14 vari-tooth. I think that one is around $39 for a blade 133" long.

Perry

[Robert Reece]

I measured my runout - it's 0.007 on both wheels and I can measure the same fluctuation on the running blade at the throat plate. That seems reasonable to me, but I can see the blade moving side to side as it runs, which doesn't seem right.

I'm gonna get a KerfMaster or something ordered tomorrow and see how it goes.

[Josiah Bartlett]

I slapped a 3/4"x115" 3 TPI Grizzly blade on my 16" Walker-Turner just because I needed a new resaw blade fast. Its actually doing pretty well. I did some 8" wide Walnut with it and other than bogging the 2 hp motor down when the kerf pinched shut after going through a knot it has been trouble free. It cuts nice and straight.

Cost: $18. I'll try something more expensive when it wears out. I'd like to try a variable pitch blade.