2007 Laguna LT16 bandsaw or New Grizzly G513x bandsaw

[Albert Chio]

Hi Guys,

I have the chance to buy a used 2007 Laguna LT16 bandsaw for $600 bu the only issue is that it doesn't come with the original table. It has been replaced with a man made one that is made out of MDF. So I have two questions. One having will the mdf table affect the performance and second is it worth buying it for $600 or should I just get the new G513x Grizzly bandsaw.

Thanks,
Albert

[guy knight]

if the rest of the laguna is in good shape i would get it and order a new table for it and have a top of the line saw versus a grizz saw on the lower end of the bs

[David Schmaus]

I would get the Laguna also.... I would guess you will have a grand in the Laguna after you buy the table and fence.... Now if I were buying new vs new I would get the 514x for 1250...

[Neil Bosdet]

Definitely buy the Laguna. It is Italian made vs. China (unless I'm mistaken) and will be a far superior saw. At $600 I wouldn't be concerned about the table. Just get it and worry about the table after you use it. I would bet I'd prefer the cast iron but you don't know until you use it. The person who changed it out might have wanted a larger table and if this is the case it could be OK. What happened to the original table? Can it be found?

I have the LT18 and would only change it to go larger in the Laguna line. Again, just get the saw.

[Steve Rowe]

First, call Laguna with the year and S/N of the saw to see if you can get a replacement table and for how much. If not available, I would pass unless you are just willing to live with an MDF table. As far as the saw goes, Laguna hands down. I have had an LT-18 for nearly 8 years now and it is a wonderful saw.
Steve

[Shiraz Balolia]

[QUOTE=Neil Bosdet;1253119]It is Italian made vs. China (unless I'm mistaken)QUOTE]

You are mistaken.

[Stephen Edwards]

PWW magazine did an excellent review of one of Grizzly's 17" BS............don't remember which one, in their latest issue. They said that they can't imagine this saw ever leaving their shop. For what it's worth, that's their take on at least one Grizzly BS.

I know nothing of the other one you're considering so I can't comment on it. I'm very pleased with the two Grizzly BS that I have.

[Frank Martin]

I believe a 2007 Laguna LT16 is actually Bulgarian made and is in a different league compared to 16HD and higher machines which are made in Italy. I saw an LT16 closely and was not impressed. I ended up with a very low mileage Laguna 16HD. Have not had a chance to set it up and run it yet, other than the initial test when I was buying it. It sure is a lot more machine than the LT16. If not for the used Laguna 16HD at a good price, I was thinking about one of the Grizzly bandsaws.

[Rick Fisher]

If I could not get the correct table, I wouldn't buy it.. Give Laguna a call first...

[Steve Rowe]

[QUOTE=Neil Bosdet;1253119]It is Italian made vs. China (unless I'm mistaken)QUOTE]

You are mistaken.

Shiraz,
You have stated that Neil is mistaken yet provided no qualifying information. Just where is the Grizzly saw made other than in an ISO 9001 factory? Or, are you stating the Laguna is not made in Italy? Inquiring minds want to know.
Steve

[John Coloccia]

I was under the impression that the LT16 was Bulgarian made. I have a 514X2 and I seem to recall that it was made in Taiwan. Both of these are from memory, but maybe someone can confirm?

Regardless of where it's made, though, the 514X2 is as well made as any saw I've seen, and I much prefer it to MOST I've seen. Grizzly does sell some junk (sorry, Shiraz but I have to say what I feel), but by and large their machinery seems quite solid and generally I wouldn't hesitate to buy Grizzly machinery. The only gripe I have, and it's minor, it that some of the guide adjustments could be a little nicer. A little additional thought about set screw location and blade guard interference would have alleviated that completely. Microadjusters everywhere would be even better! On the other hand, it's still very easy to setup, and far easier than some of the wacky adjustments I've seen on other saws and aftermarket guides. The locking handle location for the fence is goofy too, but it's usable.

But to the OP's original question, I personally wouldn't want an MDF table for my bandsaw. If the price of a new table + fence + the Laguna started approaching $700 or more, I would personally buy the 513X2. That's just my opinion as I'm sure Laguna makes a nice saw (and lots of other folks make nice saws too).

[Shiraz Balolia]

[QUOTE=Shiraz Balolia;1253238]

Shiraz,
You have stated that Neil is mistaken yet provided no qualifying information. Just where is the Grizzly saw made other than in an ISO 9001 factory? Or, are you stating the Laguna is not made in Italy? Inquiring minds want to know.
Steve

Our Bandsaws are made in Taiwan. If you are interested in knowing the country of origin of any Grizzly machine, go to our website and look up the machine's specification sheet PDF and it gives you all the details about the machine. Here's the one for the G0513X2:

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/specsheets/g0513x2_ds.pdf

Also, a new feature we have added is the animation of bandsaw cutting:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/animation/animation.aspx?itemnumber=G0513X2
The animation also shows how the resaw fence can be removed and installed "sideways" to saw narrow, thin pieces of stock.

[Rick Fisher]

The only gripe I have, and it's minor, it that some of the guide adjustments could be a little nicer. A little additional thought about set screw location and blade guard interference would have alleviated that completely. Microadjusters everywhere would be even better! On the other hand, it's still very easy to setup, and far easier than some of the wacky adjustments I've seen on other saws and aftermarket guides. The locking handle location for the fence is goofy too, but it's usable.



That is a valid gripe.. but I have $300 Carter Guides on my saw.. setting the lower guides with a 1" blade installed is a delicate task( end up with 3tpi poke marks if not carefull) .. The placement of the set screws is rediculous.. Once set, they work fantastic.. Perhaps the plant in Taiwan copied Carter :D

[John Coloccia]

Actually, the Carters were the aftermarket guides I was talking about. I tried to replace the Grizzly guides with Carters, the Carters were VERY finicky and and the mounting kit on this particular saw was pretty disappointing (I ended up sending them back). Not a shot against Carter at all. Their guides work very well in other saws...just not this one. I'm thinking of picking up a smaller saw and just dedicating it to their scroll guide (I forget what it's called).

In retrospect, the Grizzly guides are actually pretty darn nice. It's mostly the upper rear guide that's blocked by the blade guard, one of the lower guide's set screw that is difficult to get to. I've decided to just live with it for now until I figure out a way to fix it.

[Dan Friedrichs]

If the price of a new table + fence + the Laguna started approaching $700 or more, I would personally buy the 513X2. That's just my opinion as I'm sure Laguna makes a nice saw (and lots of other folks make nice saws too).

+1, but I'd spend as much as $800 if the Laguna was in good shape.

My Bulgarian-made baby Laguna is a nice saw, but there are definitely a few issues that I didn't expect on a saw that runs ~$1300, new. Many people have said that the bigger Italian-made Lagunas are in a "different class" than the smaller ones. So I doubt the quality differences between it and the Grizzly are much.

That being said, the Laguna brand name is not associated with being a "discount brand", and you may find that it holds its resale value better.

[richard poitras]

[QUOTE=John Coloccia; In retrospect, the Grizzly guides are actually pretty darn nice. It's mostly the upper rear guide that's blocked by the blade guard, one of the lower guide's set screw that is difficult to get to. I've decided to just live with it for now until I figure out a way to fix it.[/QUOTE]

John, I had a 514x and had the same problem with the guard and the upper rear guide. Until someone here on the form posted a thread about taking the guard off and cutting about a 1 1/2 ‘’ off on the one side and reinstalling the guard. It works great. You can get to the upper rear guide really easy to make adjustments and still have great blade protection.
Richard

[John Coloccia]

John, I had a 514x and had the same problem with the guard and the upper rear guide. Until someone here on the form posted a thread about taking the guard off and cutting about a 1 1/2 ‘’ off on the one side and reinstalling the guard. It works great. You can get to the upper rear guide really easy to make adjustments and still have great blade protection.
Richard

Hmmm......

Okay, now why didn't *I* think of that? I think that will be my project for tomorrow! I think that will pretty much fix the issue with the upper guide.

Thanks! :D

[David R Nelson]

Hello..............

This is my first post so "hello" everyone. I have no intention of hijacking a thread but I couldn't see a better one than this that suits my needs with regards to BS's. I still have some time before I commit to any particular bandsaw so I can still weigh-up various pros & cons etc. From the fairly extensive reading that I have done so far I have come to some, perhaps obvious, conclusions.

I am lookin to (re)saw Rosewood, Mahogany, Claro Walnut, Bubinga and Myrtle. There could well be others but these will be the mainstay, at least initially. There will also be quantities of Redwood but obviously the BS that can handle the named hardwoods will easily deal with Redwood.

Virtually all of these woods will have already have been resawn into billets which should range between the following. Approx 9" x 24" x 4/4 up to 16/4. Also, approx 6" x 36" x 4/4 up to 16/4. The hardwood cuts will all have an end-user thickness of approx 0.090" to 0.120" with S1S or S2S if I'm in a good mood:D. Oviously I want to create as little sawdust as possible doing this so I get the maximum yield possible and try to avoid "orphans" although this will not always be possible.

Should I be looking at a minimum size blade: 1", 1-3/8", 1-1/2" etc, etc.
Should I look for a minimum amount of HP from the motor? A set of lower guides are almost always optional. Would this be of any clear advantage or do they only really help when using a narrow blade or when cutting curves.

At present I am heading towards 24"/600mm Flywheels. Obviously at this size the wheels are going to be cast-iron and balanced on an Italian machine. I love the look of the Laguna saws but they are specifically for the USA market. Apart from the smaller saws which are of Eastern European origin they are Italian machines. I suspect that a bare-bone frame is shipped to the USA then USA motors are installed as well as their own guides etc etc. I am in the UK so there is little point in buying an Italian machine then having it shipped from California. I have come across Centauro, ACM, Agazanni, Felder, Meber etc. I believe Felder are somewhat like Laguna in that they import basic machines into Austria then build them up with components af their own choosing. Many machines look so alike that they must come from the same factories and are then rebadged.

Anyway, if you have managed this far then you are patient indeed. I realise that a 14" BS will likely not be enough for my needs. Although this will not be a production enviroment, ie, 8 hours a day, 5 days a week, it may be used for 8 hours a day but not every day. So, it will require a good motor. I guess my point is that I don't want to buy a 36-37" machine with 15-20HP if I can get away with 20" machine with 3-4HP. I can't say money is no object but the BS will be the most prominent piece of hardware that I will acquire.

If people have any info or persnal insights into any aspects of BS's please post them. Even if it doesn't specifically answer questions raised by the above post, it all adds to the learning process.

Regards, and thanks for your time.

p.s. If this post wood (sorry!;)) have been better under another thread then please direct me there for future reference. Ta!

[John Coloccia]

Virtually all of these woods will have already have been resawn into billets which should range between the following. Approx 9" x 24" x 4/4 up to 16/4. Also, approx 6" x 36" x 4/4 up to 16/4. The hardwood cuts will all have an end-user thickness of approx 0.090" to 0.120" with S1S or S2S if I'm in a good mood:D. Oviously I want to create as little sawdust as possible doing this so I get the maximum yield possible and try to avoid "orphans" although this will not always be possible.


Slicing guitar tops and sides? Me too :)

I do it all on my Grizzly 514X2. I haven't tried it on larger saws so I don't know if it would make any sort of difference, but I haven't really ever noticed the saw bogging down. I run a 3/4" and 1" blades for resawing. I've run 1/8" blades for scroll work, believe it or not (guide setup can be a little challenging because the blade is so tiny). 3/16" seems like a better choice, though, as 1/8" is really pushing it and a smaller saw would be more appropriate probably...but it does work!

[Rick Fisher]

Lower guides shouldn't be optional.. Especially for resawing..