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Brian Knuckles
11-05-2009, 2:25 PM
I'm trying to do a mural on some glass tile, however I wanted to know what is the best way to engrave on glass. I've read where people use liquid soap, but I wanted to see if there were any other ways.

Also, how do i seal the front of the glass when i engrave it...i want to make sure it doesn't get messed up if someone tries to clean it.

thx

Tim Bateson
11-05-2009, 2:36 PM
Dish soap and/or Wet newspaper (without print), paper towels (flat without air pockets). No sealing needed.

Edited - Try to engrave reversed - on the back.

Andy Joe
11-06-2009, 11:42 AM
I use wet newspapper and i keep it wet the whole time the machine is running. It keeps it from getting micro fractures. I also flip my image and run it on the back of the glass. Then when you look at the front you see the image going the right direction and you cant feel the engraving(everything is smooth to the touch) and its still shinny kinda like you have a clear coat over the top of it. I also use that method for engraving acrylic

Linda Butterfield
11-16-2009, 11:11 PM
I engrave on a lot of glassware and use the liquid soap method. Once the item is engraved I can take it to the sink and wash it off and clean the glass in one step. When cleaning, I use one of those sponges with the green padding on the back. It helps clean off any sharp edges and doesn't scratch the glass.

Another thing I learned is to set my blacks to a 60 or 70% grayscale. It doesn't shatter and comes out more like a "frost".

Dan Hintz
11-17-2009, 6:36 AM
I stopped using any water, soap, paper towel, voodoo dance, etc. a while ago... I could find no difference in quality that I could attribute to the use of any of them.

Dave Lock
11-17-2009, 8:29 AM
I stopped using any water, soap, paper towel, voodoo dance, etc. a while ago... I could find no difference in quality that I could attribute to the use of any of them.


I'm with Dan here. I've tried all different ways and I have found now difference.

Dan Hintz
11-17-2009, 8:53 AM
I will say I'm still trying different ways to get more of a frosted look. My engraving is quite fine and even (great detail, no chipped edges), but the contrast is still not as frosted looking as I would like. I have a few more techniques I'd like to try, as time permits, but I have a feeling I'll never be satisfied.

Brian Jacobs
11-17-2009, 1:51 PM
Another thing I learned is to set my blacks to a 60 or 70% grayscale. It doesn't shatter and comes out more like a "frost".

I've done a fair share of glass and crystal and agree with Dan and Dave... dry. I do hit the piece a second time at about 2/3 power and it seems to smooth things out and add a bit more frost.

The question I'd like to throw out is this:

I've read several comments similar to Linda's (60%-70% grayscale). At least with my Universal, 70% gray = 70% original power (approximately). So why not hit it with 70% power to begin with? Am I missing something?

Dan Hintz
11-17-2009, 2:49 PM
I've read several comments similar to Linda's (60%-70% grayscale). At least with my Universal, 70% gray = 70% original power (approximately). So why not hit it with 70% power to begin with? Am I missing something?
Brian,

That assumes you're using 3D mode where the power level is dropped in proportion to the gray level. If you select "Normal" for your mode and select an appropriate dither, the pulses will be at full power but spread around in a pseudo-random pattern. By doing this, you are reducing the amount of fracturing within a specific area, which helps to control chipping at the edges of features.

Brian Jacobs
11-17-2009, 3:07 PM
Dan,

Yep, I was thinking '3-D Mode'. But I had the workings of 'Normal Mode' wrong.

So if I understood you...

With the ULS and 'Normal Mode', the pulses fire full power no matter what the grayscale setting is, and the dithering determines the 'closeness' of the pulses. (Same as an old style dot matrix printer or monochrome inkjet?) Thanks...

Dan Hintz
11-17-2009, 3:26 PM
Yep. The dithering algorithm determines where to place small, full-power dots so that their average over a larger area is a power that matches the grayscale value in that area.

Todd Suire
11-17-2009, 3:52 PM
Dan,

Yep, I was thinking '3-D Mode'. But I had the workings of 'Normal Mode' wrong.

So if I understood you...

With the ULS and 'Normal Mode', the pulses fire full power no matter what the grayscale setting is, and the dithering determines the 'closeness' of the pulses. (Same as an old style dot matrix printer or monochrome inkjet?) Thanks...

How do you select between 3-D mode and Normal mode? I bought my machine earlier this year and was not aware there were different operating modes to choose from.

Dan Hintz
11-17-2009, 4:58 PM
Todd,

If your unit supports it (and the lower VersaLaser series may not), it's on the left-hand side of the control panel, manual control tab (below where you adjust power/speed for each color).

Todd Suire
11-17-2009, 5:05 PM
Todd,

If your unit supports it (and the lower VersaLaser series may not), it's on the left-hand side of the control panel, manual control tab (below where you adjust power/speed for each color).
Thanks Dan.

I just happen to be engraving glass tonight. I'll look for it.

Brian Jacobs
11-17-2009, 5:28 PM
Versa does support all the methods. These settings are under the 'Manual Control' tab.

Todd-
You may not have the 'Manual Control' tab activated. It's the tab next to the 'Materials Database' tab. If you don't see it, call ULS tech (or your rep). Personally, I only use the Materials Database tab if I'm engraving a new substrate, and then only as a starting point. Then switch over to Manual and run some test strips to fine tune. Then save all your settings so that you can duplicate on a moments notice. Run in manual from that point forward.

Dan-
Thanks for setting me straight on that.

Todd Suire
11-17-2009, 5:42 PM
Once again, a world of knowledge here at the Creek.

Thanks guys!