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Todd Burch
09-27-2004, 11:55 PM
I tried talking the client into QSWO, but they just didn't want to pull the trigger on a premium wood. So, poplar and birch plywood await the painter.

This thing is 46 1/2" wide and 99" tall. 26" deep. Yes, lots of skinny halves of plywood left over on this one.

The TV pulls out and swivels. It's a 36"er. Heavvvvvy. The lower doors and upper cabinet doors are hinged on Horton Brasses precsion butt hinges. The BIG TV door is on pocket door (flipper door) slides, mounted horizonal. (KV8092 4X4 slides). The two drawer-looking doors are on "up and over" slides, KV8050 slides.

The CD drawer is kinda neat. The shelves are canted back about 7°. The drawer is on a 24" full extension slide. (Still have to mount a finger pull on the top of it.)

The carpet guy is coming later this week, and the painter after that.

I'll have more about it on my web site in a week or so, after the painter does his thing. Thanks for looking.

Ken Fitzgerald
09-27-2004, 11:58 PM
Todd....you are truly an artisan.......I hope someday to be able to produce work some where near the quality that you do!

Jim Ketron
09-28-2004, 12:42 AM
Looks Great Todd!
Nice features too!
You Da Man:D
Jim

Wade Samuelson
09-28-2004, 12:46 AM
Excellent--I'd like to see it in person.

Paul Comi
09-28-2004, 2:01 AM
I tried talking the client into QSWO, but they just didn't want to pull the trigger on a premium wood. So, poplar and birch plywood await the painter.

This thing is 46 1/2" wide and 99" tall. 26" deep. Yes, lots of skinny halves of plywood left over on this one.

The TV pulls out and swivels. It's a 36"er. Heavvvvvy. The lower doors and upper cabinet doors are hinged on Horton Brasses precsion butt hinges. The BIG TV door is on pocket door (flipper door) slides, mounted horizonal. (KV8092 4X4 slides). The two drawer-looking doors are on "up and over" slides, KV8050 slides.

The CD drawer is kinda neat. The shelves are canted back about 7°. The drawer is on a 24" full extension slide. (Still have to mount a finger pull on the top of it.)

The carpet guy is coming later this week, and the painter after that.

I'll have more about it on my web site in a week or so, after the painter does his thing. Thanks for looking.Todd-I can really appreciate this kind of work. Its the kind of project that inspired me to get into woodworking in the first place. What was your process for designing it? Did you lay out using software, sketching on paper, or what?

Rich Konopka
09-28-2004, 5:51 AM
I tried talking the client into QSWO, but they just didn't want to pull the trigger on a premium wood. So, poplar and birch plywood await the painter.

This thing is 46 1/2" wide and 99" tall. 26" deep. Yes, lots of skinny halves of plywood left over on this one.

The TV pulls out and swivels. It's a 36"er. Heavvvvvy. The lower doors and upper cabinet doors are hinged on Horton Brasses precsion butt hinges. The BIG TV door is on pocket door (flipper door) slides, mounted horizonal. (KV8092 4X4 slides). The two drawer-looking doors are on "up and over" slides, KV8050 slides.

The CD drawer is kinda neat. The shelves are canted back about 7°. The drawer is on a 24" full extension slide. (Still have to mount a finger pull on the top of it.)

The carpet guy is coming later this week, and the painter after that.

I'll have more about it on my web site in a week or so, after the painter does his thing. Thanks for looking.
Todd:

Beautiful Design and I like the pullout for media storage. How are the components cooled in an enclosed environment ? Is there a fan in there?

Jim Becker
09-28-2004, 7:12 AM
I was just talking about you last night...'even said good things! :D Seriosuly, that's another nice job, Todd. Beautiful work.

Bob Marino
09-28-2004, 7:16 AM
Great work as always, Todd.

Bob

Frank Pellow
09-28-2004, 7:32 AM
Great design Todd. And, it appears that you can make any wood look good.

Michael Stafford
09-28-2004, 7:34 AM
How nice! Obviously poplar and birch are wonderful choices for painting. With your skills sow's ears do become silk purses. Can't wait to see it painted.

Todd Burch
09-28-2004, 8:04 AM
What was your process for designing it? Did you lay out using software, sketching on paper, or what?

Paul, the first step was to meet with the clients and listen to what they wanted and didn't want. In a previous home, they had a built-in made so they weren't foreign to the process (which was nice), as most of my clients have been. Their prior setup was this TV sitting on a black laminate particle board roll around cart (with smoked glass curved doors - you know the kind) within the niche that I filled with wood and wood products. The niche was 40 1/2" wide, 28" deep and 95" tall. I decided that my outside dimensions needed to be 40" wide, 27" deep and 94" tall.

The TV was too wide for the space to have doors on the side of the case. But, they still wanted a door to close it off. So, we came up with the flipper door mounted horizontal. I usually allow 2" reduction in width, per side, for flipper doors and hardware. With a 40" wide case, the inside dim. would be 38 1/2", minus 3/4" per side for face frame overhang, so that's 37" wide. The TV was 34" wide. Not enough room for regular flipper doors. There really isn't a "cabinet", per se, for the TV area. The space is created between the bottom cabinet and top cabinet. The door gives it the appearance of a cabinet. The top cabinet has long "legs", if you will.

They didn't have gobs of components. A small VCR/DVD player combo and a cable box. These are folks living in a retirement community and they didn't forsee getting any more components either. He said he only needed 6" in height for his components, and 18" wide per side was fine.

On the bottom, they wanted a pullout rack for CD/DVDs. I came up with the drawer. On the outside of the case, they wanted symmetry, but they were OK with the assymetrical case guts on the bottom.

For the top cabinet, they wanted max storage and no vertical partition, mostly for seasonal items. @ 40" wide, I was concerned about sagging in an adjustable shelf, so I put a poplar edging on both the front and back edges of the 3/4" ply shelf. Initially, they wanted a full depth shelf for the upper cabinet. @ 26" deep, that was a BIG, DEEP shelf, especially at that height. I'm 6'2" tall, and it was everything I could do install the shelf up in the cabinet without a stepstool. I suggested that they opt for a shallower shelf, say, 16" deep (which is still a deep shelf), and that way they could have 10" of "tall" space in front of the shelf. They decided they wanted both, to have the option, so I made both and charged them for both!

The outer frace frame and crown element is typical of what I'll do for an inset built-in like this. It hides the edge of the niche recess and gives the appearance of stability and finishes it off nicely. It's simply 2 stiles and a top rail, covered by a panel moulding with a 3 5/8" crown on top of that. I had an interesting cut on the top right side. The wall to the right of the built-in falls back at a 45° angle, and the crown had to follow that profile. Picture below. I cheated. I cut the 45° profile to follow the wall, then glued back in another piece to square it of at the bottom. You can see the glue line (and my glue finger prints!)

I use Sketchup software. (See design forum for a recent thread.) Pictures below. In my meetings, I'll do paper sketches in front of my prospects in my "carry it everywhere with me" spiral. I do not give these away, even if asked for them.


How are the components cooled in an enclosed environment ? Is there a fan in there?

Rich, no fans, no ventilation holes. These shelves are 26" deep and about 8" tall. These components don't emit lots of heat. No big deal on this one. Whenever they are watching a movie or TV, the doors will be open.

Pictures to come shortly in a subsequent post... Todd

Rob Russell
09-28-2004, 8:04 AM
I was just talking about you last night...'even said good things! :D

I can vouch for that!

Another beautiful Burch job.

Todd Burch
09-28-2004, 8:34 AM
Here are a couple more pictures. Todd

Frank Pellow
09-28-2004, 9:27 AM
Todd, your drawings are as proffesional as your work. Thanks for showing them; but now you have me wanting to purchase new software to be added to the long long list of hardware that I "need".

Tyler Howell
09-28-2004, 10:52 AM
Bravo, Bravo!:cool:

Jason Tuinstra
09-28-2004, 11:09 AM
I was just thinking, "Whatever happend to Todd?" Well, I guess those pictures answer the question. Great job on this piece! I'm sure your client will love it. It looks like you put a lot of thought into this one. The CAD drawings look great as well. We can learn a lot from you on this one. Good to see you around again!

Paul Comi
09-28-2004, 11:13 AM
I used sketchup to design my downdraft/outfeed for my TS and also to figure out the best layout for my shop. I love that software. Thanks for the explanation. ps Was fitting the crown to the 45 degree wall a file it until it fits kind of operation?

Nathan Hoffman
09-28-2004, 12:18 PM
Looks great as always, Todd. I have several built-ins planned for my house, and I learn a lot by reading your posts and web site. Just to clarify, you actually have 2 face frames, one on the cabinet itself, and another to hide the seam between the wall and the inset cabinet, correct? It's hard to tell from the pictures, but do you leave a standard reveal between the 2 face frames? Thanks!

Steve Clardy
09-28-2004, 12:32 PM
Very nice Todd.

Teresa Jones
09-28-2004, 12:35 PM
Todd, you are an inspiration for this craftsman wannabe!!

I hope you make it to Dallas for the BBQ!

And thanks again for the advice on the plywood and solid - you were right on target!

TJ

Brad Schmid
09-28-2004, 1:22 PM
Todd,

Another masterful job! Your skills and knowledge are amazing :)

cheers,
Brad

Roger Fitzsimonds
09-28-2004, 1:48 PM
Excellant job Todd. As always.

Roger

Alan Tolchinsky
09-28-2004, 2:50 PM
As usual Todd EXCELLENT! Looks like you're keeping busy; good for you. Alan in Md.

Chris Padilla
09-28-2004, 3:19 PM
Cool idea on the DVD holder...I am doing the very same thing in my EC. Nice to see your version of a nice EC, Todd. It helps with visualizing mine! If mine turns out half as well, I'll be thrilled. :)

Todd Burch
09-28-2004, 3:36 PM
Thanks everyone for the positive feedback.

Now, to the part I like best... ANSWERING QUESTIONS!!


Whatver happened to Todd?

Jason - Nothing - still here, just not as active. Last couple months I've been busy. Sketchup is to blame!! This latest release they now allow scripts to be written to extend their product, and I've really been getting into script writing in my spare time. I've even sold some!! WOO-HOO!!


Was fitting the crown to the 45 degree wall a file it until it fits kind of operation?

Paul, not sure what you mean, but maybe this will answer your question... When I started the job, I didn't know WHAT the heck I was going to do. I knew the crown would stick out past the flat wall, and that it would have to be returned. I make the outer face frame and applied all the mouldings at the top, except for that right side corner piece, at the shop. I took it over, nailed the outer face frame in place, and then saw what had to be done, but still didn't know what to do. I took an extra 2' of crown with me for the trial and error approach. I thought I could notch the square piece, then cut the angle, but quickly learned that the notch would be completely removed if I made a "through" cut with the miter saw. Making a stopped cut on the moulding was too much hassle for me. I made a full outside 45 miter and held it in place. I knew immediately that a full miter was the way to go, and that I would just have to glue a piece back on to create the square notched section. Worked like a charm, and I had about 8" of crown to spare!!

I just reread your question. By "file it", you meant using a file/rasp. No way Jose. That would be too much like work. :) One cut and then glue on a filler piece. That's what I'm talking about!!


to clarify, you actually have 2 face frames, one on the cabinet itself, and another to hide the seam between the wall and the inset cabinet, correct? It's hard to tell from the pictures, but do you leave a standard reveal between the 2 face frames?

Yes, two face frames. I do that a lot. Much simpler, more depth, more shadow lines, more opportunity to fix screw-ups. ;)

No standard reveal. The outer FF overlaps the inner by only 1/4". The outer FF is simply nailed to the wall framing through the sheetrock. This sheetrocked opening also had radiused corners (yuk) that are being hidden by the outer FF.

I try to keep the reveal small, but 1/4" is too small, but I was constrained on space (trying to make the cabinet space as big as possible). I like to be able to nail the outer FF to the inner FF.

Teresa - you are welcome!!

Bruce Page
09-28-2004, 8:09 PM
Beautiful work again Todd!

Mark Stutz
09-28-2004, 8:13 PM
Todd,
I never cease to be amazed! Was thinking of you the other day--Looking at a piece of BUBINGA. How's the table coming?

Todd Burch
09-28-2004, 10:56 PM
Mark, I'm still waiting on the client to decide what he wants.

In the meantime, I've sold the OTHER slab (the second slab) as a dining room table too!! It is scheduled for delivery between Thankgiving and Christmas. WOO-HOO!!

Todd

Keith Starosta
09-29-2004, 7:52 AM
Mark, I'm still waiting on the client to decide what he wants.

In the meantime, I've sold the OTHER slab (the second slab) as a dining room table too!! It is scheduled for delivery between Thankgiving and Christmas. WOO-HOO!!

Todd

You definitely need to post progress shots of this table. I was telling my wife about that bubinga waaaaay back when you first acquired it. She was intrigued. :D Looking forward to it!!!

Keith