Given a lathe...what else do I need?

[Josh Reet]

My father in law has given me a number of his Delta ww tools that he no longer uses (on to other retirement hobbies). Today it was this Delta 46-700 lathe.

Now, turning has never been real high up on my list of wood working stuff to learn. I've got fat too many "house storage" type projects to work on. And left to my own devices, a lathe would have been behind a bunch of other stuff on the purchase list. However, now that I have one and it was free, I figure I might as well learn to use it.

What do I want to turn? Not much really, the list is small. I just want to learn to turn pens for myself (I love fountain pens) and a few small things like wine bottle stoppers and ice cream scoop handles for gifts. Not particularly grand goals, but like I said, I've got a lot of other projects at the moment.

So, what do I need to do this? I've got an order that I need to make at Rockler soon, Woodcraft still has free shipping, and I live within spitting distance of Grizzly. As you can see from the photo, I've got a Great Neck (?) turning tool set, but that's about it. A facemask seems like a no-brainer even with these smaller projects, I like my face a lot. do I need some sort of chuck to hold a wine bottle stopper? From reading this: http://www.kevinsbrady.net/pen.html I see I need a pen mandrel and a few other things, perhaps a press.

Finally, as you can see from the photo, rust has started to work its magic on a few lathe parts. Should I be concerned? I have to de-rust a Delta 6" jointer (another gift from father in law) so I will probably take care of this rust at the same time. But it is anything but just cosmetic on the lathe? Yes, I realize that rusty tools are never good in general, but you know what I'm asking.

Hoping you folks can point me in the right direction.

[Norm Zax]

Welcome to the vortex. You will need:
A bench grinder (to sharpen your tools) and a jig to assist (freehnad is possible but demanding); sandpaper rolls from 60 to 400, a pen mandrel (later you will get along without it); some airflitration system; finishing options (sanding sealer, wax, poly wipe on...); Cyanoacrylic (CA) glue (comes in three consistencies); and finally: more time than you actually will have. The damn thing is addicting!
You will want (but not need yet): better bowl and spindle gouges; a thin parting tool; and a scroll jaw wood chuck (cheapest is grizzly or PSI for around 80).
Three last tips:
pen making - each type of pen requires a kit (all the metal parts) + matching bushings (buy these once) and sometimes a matching drill bit (buy once as well). You can manage without the press. You may want to get 600 paper or higher for pens.
Free wood - expensive wood is nicest but free wood cannot be ignored. When you get some you will want to imidiately seal the end grain. Some use wax, some use anchorseal. You'll need something or theyre gonna crack.
Last but not least - find a local club and join. You'll want some hands on mentoring. It will take you a long way.
[the above doesnt cover half of what you'll eventually buy, but thats it for now.]
Enjoy!

[Thom Sturgill]

What Zax said.

The rust is not critical to function, but of course not good! The tools are adequate to what your stated goals are, but expect to replace them as you get experience and want to try new things. The largest gouge is for 'roughing out' or making a square spindle round. It is usually ground square ended with about a 45 degree bevel. The next two gouges are for general shaping and work well for smoothing and larger coves as well as beads (The skews excel at beads, but take some experience) These gouges are generally ground with a rounded end (sometimes called a German or European grind) this can be done from a platform set at the correct angle and swinging the gouge from side to side as you turn it. Probably the first gouges you will buy is too add round spindle gouges in several sizes. Modern gouges are machined (as opposed to forged like yours) from round stock. Sizing is based on whether you use the English (channel width) or American (bar size) method and can be confusing, but I would start with a smaller 1/4" gouge for pens and add a 3/8" You will need a jig (Most like the wolverine system) to grind this style consistently. You may also want to add a thinner parting tool soon.

Welcome to the vortex!! I bought my first lathe 18 months ago to turn a table spindle. The spindles were turned, but the tables are still not finished...:eek:

[Aaron Wingert]

Pretty well covered so far!

Being given a lathe is kind of like being given a car motor...Still gotta buy all the things that go on it and with it to make it useful! :D

[David E Keller]

You need a winning lottery ticket... The vortex sucks money

[Josh Reet]

Thanks for everything so far folks.

Welcome to the vortex. You will need:
-A bench grinder: Have one
-and a jig to assist: Have one
-sandpaper rolls from 60 to 400
-a pen mandrel
-some airflitration system: Have a jet 1000b
-finishing options (sanding sealer, wax, poly wipe on...)
-Cyanoacrylic (CA) glue

-more time than you actually will have: I have no idea how to get this. 18 month old in the house and another baby in the belly. I'm screwed!

-better bowl and spindle gouges: May get in the future sometime, but keeping my goals small for now
-a thin parting tool: I'm not sure I know what this is.
-a scroll jaw wood chuck: like this one: http://grizzly.com/products/G9834 ? Would I want that for my current small goals?
Three last tips:


Understood about the pen kits. they seem to be available from many places, so I'm likely to just pick one and get started. Any reason to pick one over the other? Like I said, I prefer writing with fountain pens, but a rollerball is useful as well. Though I can't imagine that the type of pen has much to do with the difficulty of turning it.

Do you need to seal the endgrain on pen (or other) blanks that you get from places like penn state,rockler/etc? Or is that part of the deal when you buy wood from them, it's ready to go? What about my local hardwood dealer?

Regarding a club, I'll keep a lookout for one in my area. You are right that it is always faster to get some teaching rather than floundering around by yourself. though floundering can be fun as well.

Finally, Are pens any easier or harder than making a handle for something like this:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21483

I guess I'm saying, what's a good first thing to aim for?

[Norm Zax]

Replies:
Parting tool - since you need to put on the lathe a piece somewhat longer than the resulting piece, you will find yourself separating the piece from the un-needed base while on the lathe. When aiming for a thin cut (to maintain wood pattern continuity), you need a thinner parting tool.
Pen kits - fountain pens are quite the same but start with a few slimlines. Buy the cheaper sets at first. Give the results to friends.
Sealing endgrain - only in green wood (over 50% humidity, just recently cut from tree). Purchased wood is either sealed or already dry enough.
Chuck - avoid those chucks whose jaws end in a point (what you linked to)! Mine was used for 10 minutes and discarded. Instead, look for these: http://grizzly.com/products/4-Jaw-Wood-Chuck-3-4-x-16-TPI/H6264 See how jaws have much increased holding area?
Scoop handle - excellent beginners project. Same as spinning tops, magic wands, weed pots and flat coin dishes.
Enjoy!

[Josh Reet]

Replies:
Parting tool - since you need to put on the lathe a piece somewhat longer than the resulting piece, you will find yourself separating the piece from the un-needed base while on the lathe. When aiming for a thin cut (to maintain wood pattern continuity), you need a thinner parting tool.

Makes sense.



Chuck - avoid those chucks whose jaws end in a point (what you linked to)! Mine was used for 10 minutes and discarded. Instead, look for these: http://grizzly.com/products/4-Jaw-Wood-Chuck-3-4-x-16-TPI/H6264 See how jaws have much increased holding area?


Understood. Now, do I need one of those for my current plans? And if so, is that the right one for my lathe/purpose?