old plane blades

[Kevin McMichael]

I recently recieved a #8 jointer plane. It had been in my family forever. My grandfather was a carpenter and was born in 1872. It showes to be a Type 4 or five making it around 1885. I have sharpened planes before with good results even some off brand ones that were in pretty bad shape. I am unable to get the blade to even shave a few hairs off of my arm.

Is this common? I remember nothing of metalurgical history?

[Jim Koepke]

I recently recieved a #8 jointer plane. It had been in my family forever. My grandfather was a carpenter and was born in 1872. It showes to be a Type 4 or five making it around 1885. I have sharpened planes before with good results even some off brand ones that were in pretty bad shape. I am unable to get the blade to even shave a few hairs off of my arm.

Is this common? I remember nothing of metalurgical history?

A Stanley/Bailey type 4 is a pre-lateral a type 5 has a lateral adjuster with the metal bent up to do the lateral adjusting. Type 6 is when a disk was added to do the work.

If you have polished the back of the blade near the edge, then time should be all it takes to get a good edge. If you used the "ruler trick" it may be difficult to get a hair cutting edge.

I have less than perfectly polished blade backs still cut hair.

Does the blade get to a sharpness when pressed on your fingernail, edge pointing away from your flesh, does it catch? This is the first sign of getting sharp. If it slides across the fingernail, then it has not yet reached the first level of sharp.

jim

[Kevin McMichael]

What is the ruler trick

[Stu Gillard]

I have a #8 type 5 jointer (as Jim mentioned, if yours has a lateral adjuster, it's probably type 5) with it's original blade.

I can get the blade scalpel sharp, and it holds it's edge very well, even though I use it to joint and smooth stupidly hard Australian hardwoods.

I have heard that the metal in the irons is those days can be inconsistent.
Maybe someone could elaborate on that, but i seem to have a good one.

You can read about the ruler trick here;
http://www.finewoodworking.com/pages/w00177.asp

Regards,
Stu

[David Gilbert]

Is it possible that your blade is a laminated blade? I don't know if Stanley used these blade in the 1800's. I have seen laminated blades where the cutting edge side is extremely hard while the other side (front) is much softer. You may be able to see a line on the side or on the bevel where the steel changes.

I tried to flatten the back of a laminated blade and it was so hard that I finally abandoned the project.

Cheers,
David

[phil harold]

What is the ruler trick

a procees I do not believe in



I dont know what you have to sharpen with
but with plane blades it is nice to havea jig to hold the blade at the proper angle

Have you tried the "scary sharp method"?

google it, simple way to get sharp edge...

[Jim Koepke]

I guess we should begin at the beginning. If you have sharpened blades in the past, the only difference is the blade for a #8 is wider than any other Stanley/Bailey bench plane blade.

It might be helpful in trouble shooting your situation to know what sharpening method you are using.

If you are using water stones, you could have stones that are out of flat. This would likely give you a good edge out toward the sides.

Scary sharp can give problems if the sand paper is "bubbling" in front of the blade.

Powered systems can heat up and damage a blade.

If a blade has not been sharpened after a lot of use, getting it to sharp can be a lot of work. I seldom use anything less than a 4000 stone since I usually hone my blades before they get dull enough to need a coarser grit.

Stanley and other makers used laminated blades well in to the 20th century. What trade mark does your blade have?

Here is a reference page to help date blades by trademark:

http://www.antique-used-tools.com/stantms.htm

jim

[Kevin McMichael]

I have some new waterstones. I still have oilstones that I used to use. I have only sharpened two plane blades and a couple of knives on the 4000 and 8000. Instead of the usual diamond I used a 220 and 1000 stones that were new.

I am not using a guide but as I said I have done this a couple of times before with great success.

I may spend some time on the flat side.

[Paul Atkins]

Could the blade have lost it's temper? Gotten into a fire? I know when people lose their temper they don't seem too sharp.

[Jim Koepke]

Could the blade have lost it's temper? Gotten into a fire? I know when people lose their temper they don't seem too sharp.

I was thinking this also or that someone may have over heated the blade on a grinder.

Usually though one can get the blade sharp, it just won't hold the edge when used to cut wood.

jim

[Kevin McMichael]

I thought about the grinder but I am 50 and do not remember my father using the plane at all. He did build houses and barns but never furniture. My grandfather was allegedly the same and lwas more of a framer than my father. There is no concave to the blade.

As much as I hate to admit it and besides that fact that I have sharpened these before. I must assume that it was me. I do not really want to replace the blade as I will not use it much.

[Kevin McMichael]

I meant to say that I doubt that plane was ever used in the time of electric grinders.

[Jim Koepke]

Where are you located, there may be another Neander close by who can give a look to see what might be the problem.

jim

[Kevin McMichael]

Artesia, New Mexico

[phil harold]

I am not using a guide but as I said I have done this a couple of times before with great success.

I may spend some time on the flat side.

I am going to say get a guide
or make one to give you a 25-30 degree angle

you could be rolling the edge over