Issues restoring Millers Falls #2 hand drill

[Mike Holbrook]

I have a few issues restoringing a MF #2 drill. I made a link to Wiktor Kuc's article on restoring this drill as he has better pictures than I will be able to make. My issues are not covered in his article. I left him a similar note.

1) The locking pin (rivet) which holds the pinion on seems to rub against the gears. The hole it is in is very close to the pinion. Both to clean the spindle and to solve the rubbing issue I want to remove and reinstall the pin. I am not sure how to do this without causing further damage?

2) The chuck on my drill is a little different than WK's below, no writing, solid checkering over the entire chuck, and I think a little larger. I can remove the holding screw but I am not sure how to separate the parts. The bottom of my chuck has two holes instead of a notch. Do I need a special tool?

3) It appears someone made a mistake trying to polish the shaft for the main gear. There was a spiral rough indentation around the shaft when I got the drill. I smoothed it out a little with a brass brush on a Dremel tool. Is there anything else I can do?

http://www.wkfinetools.com/hUS/boringTools/millersF/tools/No2HD/No2-1903-Anatomy/mfHD-No2-1903-Anatomy-01.asp

Thanks for any help anyone may be able to provide.

Mike

[Jim Koepke]

Mike,

Pictures of your situation might be much more helpful in troubleshooting your particular situation if at all possible for you to post.


1) The locking pin (rivet) which holds the pinion on seems to rub against the gears. The hole it is in is very close to the pinion. Both to clean the spindle and to solve the rubbing issue I want to remove and reinstall the pin. I am not sure how to do this without causing further damage?

I will have to go out and look at my drill to see if I can figure out what the problem may be. This is one place a picture might help. Normally, I would say a pin punch or a set of pin punches are a good investment if you are going to be restoring old tools. Not sure if that is the proper tool to be using in this situation. A nail is a good cheap substitute for a pin punch. File the end flat before using. Throw it in the scrap bin if it bends. Sometimes these parts are tapered and come out one way and not the other.


2) The chuck on my drill is a little different than WK's below, no writing, solid checkering over the entire chuck, and I think a little larger. I can remove the holding screw but I am not sure how to separate the parts. The bottom of my chuck has two holes instead of a notch. Do I need a special tool?

Before I had a tool for this I tried a few different things. If you have a vise and a couple of nails of the right size, you may be able to rig up something to work on this. Angle tipped snap ring pliers may also work if it is not on too tight. I have also had success using a large crescent wrench and a couple of nails. The part being worked on has to be mounted in a vise or some other solid clamp. Put the nails with the tips filed off into the holes, put the crescent wrench over the nails as close to the work as possible. Tighten the wrench on the nails and turn. YMMV


3) It appears someone made a mistake trying to polish the shaft for the main gear. There was a spiral rough indentation around the shaft when I got the drill. I smoothed it out a little with a brass brush on a Dremel tool. Is there anything else I can do?

This could be a lubrication channel. Without seeing the item, it is hard to determine if this was manufactured this way or if someone damaged it after the fact.

I will try to get back later today with my findings.

jim

[Jim Koepke]

1) The locking pin (rivet) which holds the pinion on seems to rub against the gears. The hole it is in is very close to the pinion. Both to clean the spindle and to solve the rubbing issue I want to remove and reinstall the pin. I am not sure how to do this without causing further damage?

This is not making sense to me unless the pin has either broken or been replaced. Someone could have worked on this before and given up after putting it back together wrong.

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Is this the same as your chuck?

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The tools I have from my days long ago as a bicycle mechanic look like this:

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Something a bit heavier duty may be what is needed for the chuck.

It should not be too difficult to rig up something to open the shell.

jim

[Mike Holbrook]

I took a few shots with the iPhone since the SLR was not handy. The iPhone does not do macro but I hope my issues are a little easier to visualize with these.

Yes, I think someone tried to restore or simply enhance the appearance of this drill. I think the rush job made some problems: scars on the shaft for the main gear, a butchered locking pin placed through the pinion, and I think, a missing washer. The washer on the main gear in the picture is one I found to try as a replacement. The pin is foggy in the pictures. I am hoping the fact that it is bent and in the way is evident though. I tried pulling on it with some pliers and light pressure and it slid up a little higher than it was to where it is now.

The chuck in your picture looks just like mine. I have a small pair of bent rat tail pliers and will try them, thanks for that idea.

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[Jim Koepke]

The pin does look like a replacement. A file to cut it down a bit. If you have one, use a safety edge file with no teeth on the side. You can also put a couple layers of masking tape on the side of the file.

I have a bunch of different washers saved over a life time to pick through. Sand them thinner if need be.

The pliers are one of the things I would try, good luck and you are welcome. We Neanders have to share our ways to save our ways.

jim

[Mike Holbrook]

Jim,

I tried the pliers with the bent shafts and was not able to get the pieces apart, yet. The entire drill had a caked on substance that was thick in some areas. The substance was/is relatively sticky and tough. At first I thought it was just grime and petroleum products that had hardened over years. Lately I have begun to wonder if this substance is part of the botched effort to restore this tool. I know some cleaning substances, like Naval Jelly, can harden if left on too long. I think someone may have damaged the drill worse by trying to dress it up. More soaking and Krud Kutter I think.

You are correct about the washer I think. The one I found that is the correct diameter seems to be a little too wide. It will meet my belt sander I think. The main handle also has problems. The cap has a big chunk missing and a crack and the whole handle is loose. I think the main part of the handle is suffering from the issues WK mentions in his MF #2 restoration. I will have to figure out whether to replace or repair it.

I guess I need to get a set of pin punches. I looked at a set at Lowes recently but did not buy them thinking I would look on eBay and try to get a better idea what I might need. Probably over thinking that purchase. I do have a set of mini, knife makers files.

It looks like there are two holes in the pinion. I was originally thinking the second hole was for oil but it has occurred to me that it may be the opposite side of the pin in the pinion. Maybe if I stick the right size pin punch in the far hole I will be able to drive that piece of junk out? Maybe I can find new pins at the Depot or just fashion a new one like you mention.

The thing that worries me about the drill is the scarring on the main gear shaft. The scars are fairly deep and I am afraid trying to buff them out will decrease the diameter of the shaft too much. I am guessing I will have to just live with the fact that this drill may not be restorable to its original state. Maybe I can pick up an old trashed one with a solid frame at some later date and combine parts from two drills to get one good one.

I guess we "eBay divers" have to accept the bad with the good. Maybe I am learning what to beware of.

Thanks for the help,

Mike

[Jim Koepke]

You are correct about the washer I think. The one I found that is the correct diameter seems to be a little too wide. It will meet my belt sander I think.

I would not use a belt sander on a washer. It would likely end up flying across the shop. It is amazing how fast these soft metal washers diminish with just regular sandpaper and a little hand power.


The cap has a big chunk missing and a crack and the whole handle is loose. I think the main part of the handle is suffering from the issues WK mentions in his MF #2 restoration. I will have to figure out whether to replace or repair it.

Hopefully it is not beyond repair. To take care of the looseness on mine, on the threads and inside the ferrule a shaving was wrapped around to tighten up things. Teflon thread tape could also work for this.


Maybe I can find new pins at the Depot or just fashion a new one like you mention.

Most hardware stores carry roll pins just for this kind of need. You may need to rig up a small anvil to peen the ends just a little. Auto supply stores would also be a good place to look. Some auto supply stores are better then others. I went to one of the local chains looking for an electrical part commonly used in automobiles and appliances. Couldn't find it and asked an employee if they had any. He said, "no." I asked where he would go if he needed one. He answered, "an auto supply store." One of the "real" auto supply stores did have the part. The real auto supply stores also carry fine grit sandpaper.


The thing that worries me about the drill is the scarring on the main gear shaft. The scars are fairly deep and I am afraid trying to buff them out will decrease the diameter of the shaft too much.

Check the inside of the gear. What you want to achieve is to not have the shaft damaging the bearing surface inside the gear or the other way around. Just remove any high spots that may cause damage to the other part.


I am guessing I will have to just live with the fact that this drill may not be restorable to its original state. Maybe I can pick up an old trashed one with a solid frame at some later date and combine parts from two drills to get one good one.

Or hopefully your knowledge learned from working on this one will help you to spot a good one. Then you will have one real good one and one beater. That is where mine are at this time. I have not done much to rebuild the good one. The beater is too busy drilling holes to be taken apart.

jim

[Mike Holbrook]

Thanks for the insight Jim.

I am still a little foggy on this pin issue though. I talked to a department manager at the Depot who had no clue on the pins. When I mentioned pin punches he showed me a set of 3 that I was afraid might not provide all the sizes I need. I had seen a set at Lowes with many more punches in it. Lee Valley offers a set of 5 pin punches/tool blanks. I am wondering how one figures out what size pin punch and pin might be needed?

I am guessing that there is some latitude in sizing these things but, obviously an oversized pin isn't going in an under sized hole. I see punches in american and metric measurements as well. Looking roll pins up on the net I see a wide assortment of: rolled metal, solid metal and grooved metal. Maybe it does not matter exactly what I use as long as it fills the hole and can be smashed enough on the ends to not slide back out? The ones I am looking at in my drills do appear to be solid metal though.

From what I am seeing these pins generally protrude from both sides of their containment holes. In the case of my drill the pin in question does not go all the way through. I actually thought the hole on the other side might be an oil hole at first. My plan is to try driving it out the far side with a pin punch small enough to fit in the open side. If this gets the old one out of my pinion and the smaller one out of the handle then I guess I need to come up with some sort of pins which can be used to replace the old ones. I have small anvils I use for peening scythe blades that I thought I might use to hold one side against while striking the other side, hopefully smashing both ends enough to hold the pin in place.

I guess the best I can do to get new pins is to order an assortment from some supplier on the net and try to match the holes I have to fill as best I can?