Router Plate.. Thumbs up, or down?

[Scott Hildenbrand]

So... I'm wondering... Should I toss some cash into the fire and buy a router plate or not?

What are the advantages?

I'm building a frame structure out of red oak, 3" wide, that will bolt to the table saw replacing the right hand wing.. Then I have a sheet of Corian(sp) that I got CHEAP from Lowes that I'm planning on using for the router table top.. It's 3/4" thick or so?

Beyond that the router will be closer, thus more of the bit can stick through if needed.. What other compelling reasons would I have to do a plate?

Oh.. As for the router bit.. I could always get a collet extension, no?

The only thing sad about my plan, is the Corian is going to clash with the granite, big time.. :p

[Scott Hildenbrand]

Also, while I'm on the subject of router tables... Miter slots... How often do you use them? Just wondering.. Going with the combo miter t-track strip regardless..

[Chip Lindley]

Hi Scott! For years I used a simple router table (sink cutout) extension on my contractor TS. Router base was attached directly. I got plenty of use out of it with few complaints. Only downside to me was the need to *unscrew* the P-C router from its base to change bits above the table.

A plate is thinner and allows greater bit height above the table. A plate will allow you to pull the whole router up and out for bit changes. Of course, one of those "Eliminator" chucks would take care of that too! In all reality, IMO, plates, (OR lifts) are not a necessisity, but merely a convenience in most instances.

As for T-track, I find it more useful to clamp on hold-downs or feather boards than any other. T-track is aluminum; the steel guide bar on a coping sled or miter gauge will surely wear it fast, making precision tolerances wayy *iffy*.

[Randal Stevenson]

Having an opening for a plate, would allow you to switch routers, if you use more then one.

Is it necessary? Not really, but can be nice/handy.

[Fred Hargis]

The thickness and being able to pull it out are both important to me, but I really like having a plate with interchangeable rings that allow to vary the opening size to match the bit diameter, and on a table saw I would want one that didn't have any opening. That would be for the times I do other things on the saw extension and prevent me from dropping little things into the router motor, like tiny screws/washers etc. (DAHIKT).

[Scott Hildenbrand]

Hmmm... So basically it's just a matter of choice...

I think I'll just bolt it to the top for now.. I can always route out an opening down the road..

So what about a miter slot? I see alot of tables with those micro miter slots in them... Are they pretty well useless and I should just stick to a t-track?

[Chip Lindley]

Think of a burning need to *miter* on an RT and the utility of those expensive miter gauge accessories will become fully apparent. I can remember routing biscuit slots *on the 45* in a frame I once made. I didn't use a slot mounted miter gauge because I had no slot! I made a simple 45deg. guide which slid along the fence.

[Josiah Bartlett]

I like the Rockler aluminum router plate that I've had for several years. It makes bit changes easy to pop it right out of the table, it is strong but thin, it has interchangeable throat plates, and it can be tapped for things like start pins and hold downs.

I also like to have a miter slot- I use it for featherboards more than anything else. I have a set of miter slot feather boards that I use on my table saw, router table, shaper, and band saw. It also comes in handy if you have a tenoning jig- you can use it for making sliding dovetails or tenoning cuts on the router table instead of the table saw. Its also nice for a coping sled. Make sure you leave enough space between the router plate and slot so the slot doesn't blow out.

[Bill White]

Corian is a type of acrylic (plastic) and will sag if not properly supported. It also scratches easily.
I use a miter slot on my shop-made router table, and the Lee Valley plate was inexpensive as well as easy to install.
Bill

[glenn bradley]

The plate facilitates easy removal of the router for bit changes or adjustments if you don't have a lift or don't feel like stooping. Another advantage, although you may be able to build this into a table surface, is different throat plates; I don't want a 1-7/8" opening when I'm using a 1/4" spiral. As to miter slots, there are two camps; I use mine a lot and just upgraded one to a t-slot style to use with my second Incra miter gauge bought just for the RT. the other camp could care less if they have one or not. Neither is right or wrong, just different.

[Jeff Miller]

I'm in the process of doing the same thing you are except I'm using a double 3/4" layer of laminated melamine 18" wide that will make my saw top 58" wide and I'll have to put legs under the right side.

I figured I might as well do it right the first time and use a plate.

I just made the trip to Woodcraft this afternoon and got this plate that should fit my PC router. (this plate is very well made!!!)

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2020283/Pinnacle-Aluminum-Router-Table-Insert-Plates.aspx



http://www.woodcraft.com/Images/products/148337.jpg?rand=209430031


And I plan on putting this Incra miter track in the extension too.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Images/products/145709_230.jpg




It's going on the right side of this saw that I just got last week:D

The extension that is on the right side will be replaced completely.


http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f32/woodfarmer/GO690/101_6693.jpg

[Jim O'Dell]

One thing about a miter slot, t-track, and cutting a hole for a lift plate. ALL THREE will require you to beef up the Corian underneath them!! The slot and t-track will cut out the most. The plate will simply take about half of your thickenss out for the shelf it rides on. Possible a layer of plywood or MDF under the Corian? But then you have the issue of the 2 substances moving at different rates with heat and humidity. If you have enough, you could double the thickness of the Corian and glue it together with the specified glue.
I thought about using Corian for my RT, but could only find small pieces. I ended up using 2 layers of 3/4" MDF with laminate on it. But I would have tried the Corian if I could have gotten a piece big enough.
I also decided against the slot for a miter guage. I feel like the fence I have (Incra) with the adjustable center where I can change the gap for the bit to recess into the fence was adequate for anything I needed. I just use the fence to slide the piece against. So no slot needed to be cut. It has worked out just fine. Jim.

[Scott Hildenbrand]

This may not be Corian that I have... Someone said it scratches easily.. This stuff does not.. It's very dense and heavy as crud. Nothing on the sticker as to what it is though.

I was going to make a box out of red oak and then have cross braces 6" long or so corner to corner that would add support to the inside.

Well, I figure if it doesn't work out, I can always pop the braces off and redo it so that a 1 1/2" thick MDF top can sit in instead.

I'll consider it a learning experience either way.


Did go with a plate, BTW.. Ordered and on the way.

[Randal Stevenson]

On the subject of the miter slot, I know someone that didn't have one, and their only regret was they had set the top too far back, for some of their clamps for featherboards.