anyone use Kreig Pocket Hole joints ?

[Scott Perkins47]

I bought the kit years ago but after looking at the small screws
and limited penetration, I just didnt trust their strength.

Am I over reacting ?

[Michael Schwartz]

For fine furniture I won't touch them.

For assembling plywood cabinet carcasses they are fine. Not as strong as glue and a dado but strong enough.

Personally I stay away from pocket screws for applications like drawers, or doors, but for plywood carcasses they work quite well.

[Bobby McCarley]

Scott, I bought the system a couple of years ago and consider it money well spent. I have never had a joint fail and the screws come in different lengths. I have used the system both with just the screws and with glue and screws and don't really see a difference. Plus there is no clamping time waiting for glue joints to dry. I'm not knocking dado joints or using biscuits or dowels, they have their uses also. But IMHO the kreig system is so much easier.
Just an opinion.

Bobby
Louisiana

[William Schmitz]

I recently used them in a glue up for a 9-1/2" wide door jamb. They allowed me to get it together quickly and in alignment without a bunch of clamps and fuss. Later on I took the screws out to save for another job.

The longer I have had the kit the more I think of applications to use it. Use some glue with the screws until you gain experience and confidence.

[Jay Brewer]

I have used pocket screws for many years, on face frames and attaching the face frames to the boxes. Never had a failure yet.

I look at pocket screws as more of a clamp (for the glue to dry) than anything else.

[Lee Schierer]

I routinely use pocket screws to attach the internal frames for cabinets and dressers that I make. They hold securely and are quick to use. Make sure you get the depth set right so you get enough thread into the mating piece and always use the washer head type screws.

[scott spencer]

I find them to be pretty convenient in hidden applications. They don't replace good joinery, but they sure strength a hidden butt joint. I use far fewer biscuits these days and more pocket holes than I used to.

[Nick Lazz]

I use it all the time for all kinds of things. I have not used my biscuit joiner since I bought it 3+ years ago.
I think the strength is right up there with biscuits and T&G...sometimes I use pocket holes with T&G.

Great tool, easier to use than a biscuit joiner but like all tools has its limitations and I only use them in hidden areas.

Nick

[Jason White]

I just put together some shop carts using nothing but pocket screws. Worked out great!

Jason


For fine furniture I won't touch them.

For assembling plywood cabinet carcasses they are fine. Not as strong as glue and a dado but strong enough.

Personally I stay away from pocket screws for applications like drawers, or doors, but for plywood carcasses they work quite well.

[Rich Aldrich]

I also have been using the pocket hole screw system for a few years, but it is always in combination with glue (Titebond II). The system works well, especially for cabinet carcasses and face frames which has already been mentioned. The wood plugs are quite expensive.

[Roger Benton]

as stated above, the screws come in many lengths. i personally find the system to work well.

[Paul Steiner]

I use them almost everyday. Very very strong. Love them.

[Gerry Werth]

Scott,
Over reacting. They produce a very strong joint, especially when used with glue, even thought Kreg says you don't need to use glue. I use pocket screws to fasten table aprons to the legs. I know M & T is a much stronger joint, but for a coffee table, sofa table, and end table that don't get moved around much, it is fast, strong, and easier than the M&T to construct. I have also used pocket screws for joining face frames to cabinets, and also for all the hidden glue ups for a fireplace mantel. So far all my uses have been in "hidden" use, but the contrasting plugs are on my next project.

[Steve Clardy]

I don't have the kreg system.

I have another one and use pockets screws a lot.

[John Lucas]

I also have been using the pocket hole screw system for a few years, but it is always in combination with glue (Titebond II). The system works well, especially for cabinet carcasses and face frames which has already been mentioned. The wood plugs are quite expensive.

You can buy standardd 3/8" dowels and plug the hole; saw it off flush adn you are left with a dowel that can be turned around and cut for the next hole.

[Paul Ryan]

I have a cheap kreg pocket hole jig that I use quite often. It really comes in handy for all sorts of different construction. I am working on a chair right not that to fasten the seat down to the frame I am planning on using pocket screws. The screws will be hidden but I will still plugs the holes. I think it is a real handy fastening method that is very strong when combined with glue.

[Joe Broadway]

Are the special screws really that different? I've been thinking about getting the system but would like to use all the regular screws I have instead of buying more special ones.

[Dave Novak]

Are the special screws really that different? I've been thinking about getting the system but would like to use all the regular screws I have instead of buying more special ones.

Buy pocket hole screws. Don't have to be Kreig, but any other kind of screw will only frustrate you.

[sean m. titmas]

I find that the screws work best as a mini clamp to hold the pieces tight while the glue cures, making the joint stronger than screws alone. for the job site and building cabinets the pocket screws are indispensable for quick, simple and strong joinery but for furniture i only use them for attaching a table top to the aprons.

regular drywall screws will not work with the holes because the head will split out the hole when tightened down but the flat bottom pocket screws are designed to work with the flat bottom holes. its a system that is designed to use the flat spot to apply pressure to the glue joint.

[Ben Hatcher]

I use mine quite often on shop furniture and cabinets. I use the screws all the time for non-pocket hole applications because they self tap and the flat head provides more holding power and doesn't split the workpiece the way a wood or drywall screw can.

[Jason White]

They are pan-head screws that are self-tapping. The diameter of the pan-head is also a bit larger than regular pan-head screws. You can also get all-weather ones for exterior use (they're the ones with a blue coating). Also, they recommend using coarse-thread for plywood and softwoods and fine-thread for hardwoods.

The actual Kreg brand ones aren't cheap. If you need large quantities, I think McFeely's might have some cheaper ones.

Jason


Are the special screws really that different? I've been thinking about getting the system but would like to use all the regular screws I have instead of buying more special ones.

[Wayne Cannon]

In tests, pocket screws come out weaker than most other types of joinery, but they're hard to beat for face frames (which don't require much strength). In addition to other tips mentioned here, I find them handy for putting together quick jigs.

[James Carmichael]

The Kreg system is great, lots of people use them with glue for carcass and face frame assembly. PHS are really great for attaching face frames, they pull it in good & tight.

Definitly, do not skimp on the screws or try to use non-PH screws for assembly. I don't know why pan-head wood screws are so hard to find, but I either have to go to Lowes for Kreg, or Woodcraft for the drawer-front and side screws (can't recall the brand).

[Thomas Pender]

I use my Kreg jig and screws for all kinds of things - especially when they are hidden and high strength is not critical. Lee's example of internal frames is a good one - I have used them on certain webframes, but prefer tenons and slots. Plus, I do always use glue as well - why not?

One thing I found they really work well for is for the arch on mission furniture - I end up having to cut only the tenons and mortises for the arch piece and use the kreg screws to fasten the bottom shelf/drawer separator to the top of the arch. I put some glue on and the screws act like clamps. Otherwise, they are wonderful for face frames, etc. BTW I use the screws for attaching almost anything - high quality.

I think it is fair to say the usefulness of these systems is limited only by our imagination.

[Rick Dennington]

I don't have the K3orK4 system, but thinking about getting one. I been using the Mini Kreg, and for one hole at a time, it works really good. Like has been stated, use glue also. You don't need a lot. Just holding power. If in doubt as to wheather you might like the pocket hole system, just get the Mini to be sure. It's about $20 bucks, and you get the jig, drill, and Allen wrench to adjust the stop coller. Just my 10 cents worth(inflation)!!!!

[Nick Lazz]

Are the special screws really that different? I've been thinking about getting the system but would like to use all the regular screws I have instead of buying more special ones.

Depends on what you are using them for. I have used pocket holes in rail construction on decks and of course use exterior grade screws.
But for cabinets and interior stuff, I use the Kreg pocket hole screws.

[Keith Harrell]

I use them where they won't show and like them I often combine them with Domino joiners if I want extra strenght. They are great for test fitting a project before gluing it up. I just purchased the plugs but haven't used them yet on places that may show. Not sure how one would remove the plugs if you want to take it apart. They are also good if you want build it module so you can take the piece somewhere. Norm would not approve I'm sure.

[Adam Slutsky]

I was skeptical at first but used them to make up some face frames for a bunch of plywood cabinets. They worked great! I would definitely recommend them for constructing face frames.

[Bill White]

I've had my basic Kreg for 12 years (about), and ya ain't gettin' it away from my shop. Use it a bunch. 1 1/4" pan heads for 3/4" stock. 1 1/2" for thicker stuff. I glue as well.
Bill