Plate Glass - source??

[Kent A Bathurst]

I use the sandpaper sharpening method. I have a piece of plate glass that is approx 1/2" x 4" x 24". I need another to help a (rookie) friend tool up.

For the life of me, I can't remember where I bought this 10+ years ago, and I cannot find it when I search the usual suspects (Garret-W, LV, Rockler, Highland, Woodcraft, Japan WW).

????

Thanks
Kent

[Jim Koepke]

Is there a replacement glass shop in your area?

I use granite tiles 12" X 12" that seem to work OK. Also have some scrap counter top material. Have my eye out for an old machinist inspection stone. They are not expensive, but the shipping is tremendous.

jim

[Kent A Bathurst]

Yeah - good options, Jim - thanks - esp the scrap countertop material - betcha that is available from just about any granite countertop shop, eh? Had not even thoguht of that.

It just kinda p****s me off that I don't know where I got what I got. I'm on a mission now :)

[John Coloccia]

You mean something like this?

http://www.fiberoptics4sale.com/page/FOFS/PROD/Fiber_Connector_Hand_Polishing_Pads_Plates_Mats/9111

Really, though, any local glass supplier should be able to come up with what you need.

[Mike Gadget]

When I setup my Scary Sharp, I has several pieces of 12x12x1/4 in plate glass cut at my local glass shop. I called them and they had it cut before I could drive over to get it and they were only a couple of miles away. All of the BORG's and hardware stores carried thinner pieces, but not 1/4 inch plate. It cost me about $20 for 3 pieces.

I now glue a couple of pieces to each side of the glass and have 220/320, 400/600, 800,1000.... You get the idea. I just use whatever grit I need and flip the plate over to use the next grit. The paper on the back side helps to hold the glass in place when I am using it.

Mike

[Chris Vandiver]

If you are going to use glass for sharpening/flattening it should probably be float glass, at a minimum of 1/2" thick. Anything less will flex too much.

You can somtimes find 1/2" or thicker float glass(old glass shelving) at used building material supply stores. Bring a straight edge to check for flatteness. Your local glass supply shop sometimes has scrap float glass(left over from a custom job) or they can easily order some for you, although it is a little expensive.

Chris

[glenn bradley]

For the rougher grits I use a 12" tile from the BORG, they cut it in half for free (as in, the first one's free). I use 1/4" float glass (in wooden holders) from the glass shop for the 3 finer grits. Cut to size with the edges sanded for pretty darn cheap IIRC.

[Gary Herrmann]

When my wife had a glass top made for the dining room table, I asked the shop for a piece of .5x6x36 float glass. The even beveled the edges - $20. Any glass shop should be able to accomodate you.

[James Scheffler]

When I called around to local glass shops a few years ago, I was told that pretty much all plate glass is float glass nowadays. I use 3/8" glass, and I don't notice any issues with flexing. If you use it on a flat surface it won't flex anyway.

Jim

[Kent A Bathurst]

If you are going to use glass for sharpening/flattening it should probably be float glass, at a minimum of 1/2" thick. Anything less will flex too much. Chris

Yep - That's exactly what I've got. Just can't find it again - I know I got it from some woodworking-related place. 4" wide x 24" long. I put 150g adhesive-backed on the glass, then just lay 2 grits (like 1200 and 1500) of half sheet on the 24" length, and go to town.

BTW - virtually all the glass we commonly see (except textured art glass, stained glass, etc.) is float glass, including window glass at Borg, Ace Hdwre, etc. - and has been for 40 years or so. That is the primary production process - the "ribbon" of molten glass (12' wide? 20' wide? I forget) exits the kiln/furnace, and floats on a long lake of molten tin. Molten tin is more dense than molten glass, so the glass floats. Molten tin is very hot, but is cooler than molten glass, so the glass is able to solidify before it exits to rollers and conveyors for final cool-down and cutting. One key property of the "float" process is that the bottom and the top of the ribbon come out perfectly flat. This eliminated HUGE rooms full of HUGE grinders and polishers required pre-float - clever German engineers, once again.

As you say - the 1/2" (or so) thickness provides the structural stability to overcome any "non-flat" characteristics of the workbench, etc.

[Kent A Bathurst]

When my wife had a glass top made for the dining room table, I asked the shop for a piece of .5x6x36 float glass. The even beveled the edges - $20. Any glass shop should be able to accomodate you.

OK, Gary - thanks. $20 is a good deal - I'll check that out.

[Scott Ekman]

Rockler's plate glass sharpening system is $34 and includes everything you need (glass, sand paper, honing guide, plastic feet).

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5983&filter=scary%20sharp

"The Fine Sharpening System consists of the glass plate; honing guide; 25 soft plastic feet; and two each of 800, 1200, 1500, and 2000 grit, 41/2'' x 11'' Klingspor finest paper with ''peel and stick'' application."

[Fred Childs]

Go to the Craigslist free section. Search under “glass”. You should find a whole host of free coffee tables with glass tops, end tables, or just pieces of glass. Keep the glass, ditch the table.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Now that's creative. Never occurred to me.

[Mark Roderick]

Just call a local glass supplier. I bought about six pieces of 3/8" glass, roughly 3" x 8", for not very much money.