Which Target Coating for Kitchen Cabinets?

[Mike Goetzke]

EMTECH 6000 Production Lacquer

-or-

EMTECH 8000 Conversion Varnish


I have used EM6000 successfully on several furniture projects but have seen a few recommend 8000 because of high resistance to solvents. I have never used 8000 and like the burn-in effect of 6000.

Looking for others experience of these two coatings.


Thanks,

Mike

[Jay Brewer]

Hi Mike, when I switched to waterbased, I started using the EM 8000. It worked great. But an average kitchen would use 10 to 15 gallons with my finish schedule. I needed to start saving some money, so I switched to USL ( now EM6000). I have probably sprayed over 100 gallons of it in the last couple of years, and so far, it has worked great.

I had to way the odds of something happening to the finish vs the considerable price difference. I'm glad I made the switch, haven't had a problem yet.

I would use the 6000 on my own kitchen in a heartbeat. When I ever get time to do it :D.

[Larry Fox]

I used the 8000 on my kitchen but have used the 6000 on many projects including some bathroom cabinetry and agree with Jay, I would not hesitate to use it in a kitchen.

Jay, 10-15 gallons for an average kitchen. They must be huge kitchens - that is a lot of finish. Have any pics - would love to see some of your work.

[Mike Goetzke]

Thanks for the info. I just ordered the EM6000. It's 30% off plus free shipping for 5 gal. cans till Saturday.

Mike

[Matt Meiser]

I'm going to use a little over 5 gallons on my project. That's for faceframes, drawers, doors, and misc trim. The boxes were prefinished ply.

[Larry Fox]

I'm going to use a little over 5 gallons on my project. That's for faceframes, drawers, doors, and misc trim. The boxes were prefinished ply.

That is about what I used for mine, maybe a little less but not much less. Jay is "in the business" so I automatically assumed he used pre-finished ply as well and that we were just talking ff, doors, drawers, moldings etc. If this is the case he either has a really involved schedule or he builds big kitchens - I suspect the later.

However, the pre-finished ply might be a bad assumption in which case I can easily see 10-15 gallons.

[Mike Goetzke]

That is about what I used for mine, maybe a little less but not much less. Jay is "in the business" so I automatically assumed he used pre-finished ply as well and that we were just talking ff, doors, drawers, moldings etc. If this is the case he either has a really involved schedule or he builds big kitchens - I suspect the later.

However, the pre-finished ply might be a bad assumption in which case I can easily see 10-15 gallons.

I talked to Jay and his quantity is high because he uses the EM6000 for sealer, colorant carrier, and topcoat. Says at times he may have 6-8 coats applied.

Mike

[Larry Fox]

Mike, thanks for the reply. In that case I can see the high quantity. I have 3 topcoats of the 8000 on my kitchen and went through 5 gallons so that scales out about right when adjusting for the fact that I have a small kitchen. Interesting use of the product as a sealer. I typically use dewaxed shellac to warm things up a bit and as a blocker to guard against any contamination issues from oil in the schedule, sterates in sandpaper etc. I have used the 6000 as a color carrier - more a toner actually - but typically count those coats as topcoats, maybe add one more clear.

Still would like to see some pics so maybe I will pm Jay directly.

[Jay Brewer]

I used the 8000 on my kitchen but have used the 6000 on many projects including some bathroom cabinetry and agree with Jay, I would not hesitate to use it in a kitchen.

Jay, 10-15 gallons for an average kitchen. They must be huge kitchens - that is a lot of finish. Have any pics - would love to see some of your work.

Hi Larry, I do use the 6000 for everything. I dilute it 20% for the sealer coat. Most every job is a toner ( 2 to 4 coats ) then 3 to 4 topcoats. So i go through alot of material on an average kitchen.

I have settled on the Target 6000 because I only have to stock one product. I have been playing with Sherwin Williams Kem Aqua plus, but haven't yet been able to get satisfactory results. Its just not laying down the way I would like.

I just posted a kitchen I completed a few months ago is the Projects forum http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=123525.

My website needs some updated pictures but you can see it here MadeByJCB.com, thanks

[Matt Meiser]

Not to hijack the thread, but how do you use it as toner? I've added a little Trans Tint Honey Amber dye to get it to give some color when I'm spraying it directly on bare wood. But I'm picturing more color when you say toner. How do you keep it from looking like paint?

[Jay Brewer]

Not to hijack the thread, but how do you use it as toner? I've added a little Trans Tint Honey Amber dye to get it to give some color when I'm spraying it directly on bare wood. But I'm picturing more color when you say toner. How do you keep it from looking like paint?


Hi Matt, what you just described is a toner, just a light one. Any of the Trans Tints will work without looking like paint if done properly.

I never use more than 1/2 oz of TT to 32 oz of USL, I also never spray more than 4 coats. I have wasted countless sample doors,TT and USL finding colors that look good. I have over 20 now just using different combinations of TT.

Hope this helps

[Matt Meiser]

Guess I'll have to buy some more TT dyes and do some experimenting on scrap. Is that how you did the kitchen you linked to?

Coloring the wood is the one thing that's really held me back from converting 100% to WB. I tried a WB stain and was very unhappy with the result. WB over oil stain, even with shellac as a barrer kind of scares me, though WB over Seal-A-Cell is working GREAT on my kitchen project.

[Jay Brewer]

Guess I'll have to buy some more TT dyes and do some experimenting on scrap. Is that how you did the kitchen you linked to?

Coloring the wood is the one thing that's really held me back from converting 100% to WB. I tried a WB stain and was very unhappy with the result. WB over oil stain, even with shellac as a barrer kind of scares me, though WB over Seal-A-Cell is working GREAT on my kitchen project.


The picture I have linked is colored with toners. The black island is Mixol ( a thicker colorant than Trans Tint ) mixed in USL that gives it a paint look, but has the protection of 3 top coats over the color.

I have tried a ton of oil and water based stains with little success on the woods I use most Alder, Maple, and Cherry. Toners will usually give a more even color than stains will.

There are some drawbacks to toners. It takes a lot of practice to spray an even coat, especially darker colors. Also, the color is sitting on top of the wood, so it can be scratched off if you get through the top coats. It is fairly easy to repair a small scratch or chip.

Hope this helps.