Finish for Mahogany

[rob mclaughlin]

I am just completing one of my first projects - a slat top table of Honduran mahogany that will spend most of the year outside at a marina (humid environment) but not exposed to more than occasional direct sun or water. The wood is quite dry. I would like a durable low gloss finish that will stand up to this environment. I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.

[Phil Phelps]

A satin, lacquer finish would be beautiful.

[Prashun Patel]

Try Waterlox Marine Finish.

There are better finishers than I out there, but personally, I find outdoor film-forming finishes a pain to maintain. I'd apply the marine or spar varnish as a wipe-on, thinned a little so it's easy to work. Soak it in, and then wipe of all the excess. I'd do this 2-3 times, untill there are no dull areas left. I wouldn't build it to any kind of chippable, peelable film.

Every year, I'd clean with mineral spirits, and lightly sand down any splinters, and repeat the process.

That's just me.

[Scott Holmes]

Or go to a marine supply house and get one of their marine finishes.

Do be afraid of the $40+ per quart price it is worth every penny.

If the finish says urethane anywhere on the label, DON'T buy it. Urethane is easily damaged by UV even indirect UV.

[Scott Holmes]

Most lacquers made for woodworking will not do well outside.

A QUALITY marine varnish from a marina or WaterLox Marine.

Nothng with urethane.

[Phil Phelps]

Most lacquers made for woodworking will not do well outside.

A QUALITY marine varnish from a marina or WaterLox Marine.

Nothng with urethane.

Oops! I missed the "outside" part.
Never mind.

[rob mclaughlin]

Thanks for the input. I took a look at the Waterlox website - this looks like a good way to go

This wood finishing stuff is complicated!

[Neal Clayton]

well you'll be happy to find that waterlox isn't. it's pretty retard proof. doesn't matter whether you brush it or wipe it, it'll even itself out as long as you leave it alone for a day or so ;).

i'm about the least skilled person with a paintbrush that i know and i brush it with pretty good results.

[Scott Holmes]

Shawn,

No need to wipe the excess off when you are using a wiping varnish.

If you are using an oil/varnish blend then wiping the excess is a MUST.

[Prashun Patel]

I only suggest wiping off the varnish in this case, because this will prevent it from building a film on the surface. It has been my (humble) experience that film forming finishes on an outside surface can peel and crack. If they do, then they really need to be scraped off in order to reprep the surface.

With an in-the-wood finish, even one that has a resin component, won't require as much surface re-prep when (not if) the finish requires periodic reapplication.

[rob mclaughlin]

With the Waterlox approach is grain filling advisable? If so, what techniques/products do you use?

[Prashun Patel]

First decide if yr going with a film forming varnish. Assuming you are, then you only need to fill the grain if yr going for a formal, glass-smooth finish. If you want that, then it has been my experience that several brushed on coats of the Waterlox will do the job.

Another approach which worked for me on sapele was to shellac it thick and sand it back to the pores. You might have to do this several times more than if you use a commercial pore filler (option 3) but it's cheaper and will dry quicker and is in general less messy.

The last option is to not fill the grain at all. It won't affect the protection of yr top.

I also suggest that if you are going for a buildy, filmy, glossy finish, do yr best to cover it when not in use. That is the absolute best way to preserve the finish.

Sunlight and water (even light amts) will torture a finish over a short time.