Bench sander

[Kenneth Whiting]

I have a belt/disk sander that I've used to clean up edges on metal before, will it sharpen lathe tools or am I grasping at straws.

[David E Keller]

It'll work in a pinch but I found it less than ideal. Not bad for skews and scrapers but gouges are a little tougher. If it's all you got then go for it, but I'd get a slow speed grinder and a jig ASAP... My tools cut better, and I can sharpen faster with the grinder/jig than I could ever manage on a sander

[Paul Atkins]

Probably will work, but you'll have to take it easy because the thing probably goes really fast. It's made for wood sanding and metal can get hot right now. Just take a small amount off at a time and don't let the metal change color - a sure sign of overheating. I wouldn't use anything less than 100 grit, or more than 220. Just my 2 cents

[Kenneth Whiting]

I keep hearing about overheating the metal and I understand what that does to it, but I watched a video that was posted on here a few days ago about sharpening that said not to worry about it. He said the HSS is made so that overheating won't mess it up. This seems like it's not like most things where I do it one way and you do it another way, and it's ok. Just wondering if anyone can clarify it for me. If I can find the link I went to I will post it.

Ok found it: http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2008/09/23/podcast-37-turning-tools-sharpen-your-skills-with-sharp-tools/

[Josiah Bartlett]

I use a disc sander with 320 grit and a modified table for touching up. It works quite well for skews and parting tools but gets a bit tricky with gouges. One of the issues with small diameter discs is that due to the circular action the outer radius of the disc cuts faster than the inside so you have to take that into account as you are sharpening. I haven't had a problem with heat buildup using a very light touch.

[Jake Helmboldt]

The new Sorby sharpener uses a sanding belt and Klingspor makes a gold belt material specifically for sharpening. They will make them to custom lengths for a reasonable price.

Try it and see how well it works. If you don't like it you are out a few dollars and can buy a bench grinder.

Look for a video of the Sorby sharpening system and you'll see a belt system can work just fine. I have a combo grinder belt sander and use both.

[Kim Ford]

I use one all the time and I actually prefer it over the grinder, but I do use the grinder as well. It is really a matter of personal preference.
Google sharpening systems for chisels and you will see there are several on the market.

[Ken Whitney]

Derek Cohen has a great write up on using a belt sander to sharpen plane blades, etc. here (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/BeltSanderGrinderMkI.html) and in a couple of other places on his very helpful site.

I've set up a six-inch belt sander with a cross bar like Derek's, along with a jig to hold skew chisels. I've not got all the bugs worked out yet, but for me it is much easier to sharpen a skew with a belt sander than on a bench grinder. You don't get a hollow grind with a belt, of course.

If I can get the jig figured out, I should be able to sharpen one side of the skew, flip it over, and do the other side. I promise to post pictures if I can get the rig working.

Ken

[Gary Conklin]

Herme de Vries (http://www.hdv.net/) uses only a belt sander and buffer. Look under tools and tips.

[Gary Conklin]

Also a write up at Big Tree Tools (http://www.bigtreeturnings.com/articles/sharpening2.html).