cabinet building question ??

[mike graveling]

I am in the process of building the face frames right now and after i ripped the pieces to width amd of course your left with an edge that needs to be sanded, my problem is that if i try to sand the edges they become not a true straight edge anymore,i am not to worried about the rails, but the stiles need to be perfect so that when i attach the cabinets together the 2 rails that fit together have a nice snug clean joint, anyways i am wondering what you guys do or if you have any recomendations.

thanks ahead of time for your help

[Darrell Bade]

I run a RO sander down the edges with 180 grit. Just be careful to make sure the sander is sitting flat on the edge. It the frame is butting up against another, you do not need a sanded edge for stain quality you just need to get rid of any big ridges from the saw.

[Conrad Fiore]

Light pass on the jointer. Stack and light pass on planer. Light pass on router table. Any one of these should give you a square, clean surface.

[Maurice Ungaro]

Hand plane?

[Rod Sheridan]

If you're using a router table to complete the rails and stiles, then a pass through the planer will make them parallel.

A pass through the jointer may result in a trapezoid.

I make rails and stiles on a shaper so I always leave them a bit over sized and take the entire edge away when forming the profile.

Regards, Rod.

[Anthony Anderson]

If you're using a router table to complete the rails and stiles, then a pass through the planer will make them parallel.

A pass through the jointer may result in a trapezoid.

I make rails and stiles on a shaper so I always leave them a bit over sized and take the entire edge away when forming the profile.

Regards, Rod.

I think the OP was referring to face frame stock, not stick and cope cuts, but maybe I'm not understanding correctly.

I like the idea of ripping all pieces to width and then place the saw marked edge facing up, and then running through the planer. Run 6-8 pcs. through the planer to save time, and to add stability. Because one piece might tend to tilt, and cause an uneven edge.


Here's what I do:

I like to joint one edge and then rip a piece to width, and then joint the edge again, on the wide stock/piece that I am ripping from, and then rip, joint, rip, joint, etc, etc. Takes a little longer, but you only have to sand one edge, and the other edge remains 90 degrees. I put the 90 degree edge on the out side, this results in only having to sand the inside edge of the face face after assembly (to remove some very fine saw blade marks).

Good Luck. Let us know what you decide on, or if you discover a another way that is easier/better, so we can learn as well.

[Rod Sheridan]

[QUOTE=Anthony Anderson;1242533]I think the OP was referring to face frame stock, not stick and cope cuts, but maybe I'm not understanding correctly.

Anthony, you're correct, I misunderstood the original post, so I'll stick with my planer answer.

Thanks, Rod.

[Anthony Anderson]

[QUOTE=Anthony Anderson;1242533]I think the OP was referring to face frame stock, not stick and cope cuts, but maybe I'm not understanding correctly.

Anthony, you're correct, I misunderstood the original post, so I'll stick with my planer answer.

Thanks, Rod.

I like your planer method Rod. I will be using that in the future. Thanks for the tip.

Bill

[Lee Schierer]

Since any face frame has at least two of everything. After ripping put two or more pieces together with clamps or double sided tape so the cut edges are even with each other. This will give you a wider edge and it will be easier to sand and stay square.

[Steve Southwood]

Planner here also. I rip, joint the ripped edge and then plane all the unjointed edges. All the same width when done.

[Jim Tincher]

Don't forget that you can stack cut these all at once.... great time saver and ensures consistency.

[john bateman]

I think I would get a good rip blade and adjust my saw so that the ripped edges are clean and don't require additional work.

[Rod Sheridan]

I think I would get a good rip blade and adjust my saw so that the ripped edges are clean and don't require additional work.

I'd like that as well, however in 30 years I haven't found the secret to obtaining finish ready parts from the tablesaw.

Regards, Rod.