Jet Dust collector - need different remote switch

[Michael Heffernan]

I have a Jet DC1100-RCK dust collector. This is the old version of this dust collector with a remote switch. The problem is that my version of the DC is controlled by an IR remote, which requires direct line of site from the remote to the controller on the DC itself. The new version is now equipped with a radio frequency controller, eliminating the need for line of sight to the machine.
Since I am all over the shop, I am constantly reaching around other machines to turn on the DC with the remote, defeating the purpose of using it.
I tried the Long Ranger radio frequency remote, but had to send it back because the Jet DC controller resets to OFF when it loses power. So the Long Ranger is useless.
Okay, so here is my QUESTION: Does anyone know a work around to disable the controller on this DC in order to use a radio frequency remote? Has anyone done this? I could use some help on this one.

[Leo Graywacz]

Sounds like you are going to have to rewire the DC so the existing remote controls are taken out of the loop and the on off switch is directly connected to the motor. I don't know what the internals of the DC controls are so I cannot really advise you further.

Basically, disconnect the motor wiring and put a correctly rated cord with a plug on the end of it. Plug it into the long ranger (or other) and it should function with the remote. But it will only operate with the remote unless further wiring is added.

[John Harden]

Sounds like you are going to have to rewire the DC so the existing remote controls are taken out of the loop and the on off switch is directly connected to the motor. I don't know what the internals of the DC controls are so I cannot really advise you further.

Basically, disconnect the motor wiring and put a correctly rated cord with a plug on the end of it. Plug it into the long ranger (or other) and it should function with the remote. But it will only operate with the remote unless further wiring is added.

I agree with Leo. His advice is dead on, but I'll offer my step by step suggestions with some clarificatons.

If you think of it in its most basic form, what you have is a motor looking for a way to turn on. Trace the wires from the wall plug back to the motor itself. Often, this will be a metal box, fastened to the side of the motor. Inside this box, you'll be able to reveal the secrets of how they wired this........

Ready.........? Okay, now ignore the secrets. We don't care....... :)

If it's single phase, 110 (or even 220V, which I doubt) there will be three wires coming out of the motor casing. Just find the 3 wires and disconnect them from whatever they are screwed (or soldered) down to inside the metal box........... Done?

Then........connect them to the pigtails of an extension cord of the appropirate gauge (Hard to go wrong with 12 ga on 110V). Also, disconnect and ignore everything else they have going on inside the metal box as this is your problem area. Use wire nuts or crimp connectors and seal up the connection. White to white, black to black (or red to red) and bare copper to bare copper (or green insulated wire to green insulated wire). Very simple.

Done....? Now....., plug the male end of your extension cord into the female end of the Long Ranger module (I love these. Have two), and you're done. Your Long Ranger will now power the DC.

I use a 220V LR to activate my 2 HP, Oneida dust collector. No magnetic switch or any switch at all. Simply a cord that comes out of the motor with a plug on it that inserts into the LR module. No remote switch, no go. Remote hangs off my little tool pouch on my belt. Has worked like a charm for over 5 years.

Do NOT use this approach for tools with cutting edges. This is fine for DC's, not your table saw. Why? Visualize an errant radio signal activating your table or band saw ...........:eek:

Uncomfortable? Install a mechanical on/off switch in between the male end of the power cord you just installed and the LR.

Still uncomfortable? Hire a licensed electrician out of your local Pennysaver and they'll likely offer you the same choices I just described above.

That's my .02.

Regards,

John