Raw fingertips

[Jimmy Cox]

for the last week I have been applying a finish on a full over full bunk bed and in between coats I have been sanding my fingertips raw....

What does everyone do to prevent this???

Right now I taped the ends of my fingers with masking tape but is there a better way?

[Rick Dennington]

Go to Lowes, Depot, or Walmart and buy a sanding block. They are rubber, and you use a 1/3 or 1/4? sheet of sandpaper and lock them in. Or better yet, if you have a shop vac, get a random orbit sander, or possibly a finish sander. Use 150 down to 220 paper, and you're set. Hope this helps.

[Jason Beam]

what are you rubbing on?

About all I could picture was that you have folded up sandpaper and that's abrading your skin. I would suggest using a sanding block that doesn't require you to be the sandpaper clamp :)

I can't immediately think of any other reason your description would yield raw fingertips. Is there something you're doing that is specifically causing the abrasion?

[David DeCristoforo]

You're supposed to sand the wood, not your fingers.

[Michael O'Sullivan]

for the last week I have been applying a finish on a full over full bunk bed and in between coats I have been sanding my fingertips raw....

What does everyone do to prevent this???

Right now I taped the ends of my fingers with masking tape but is there a better way?

The sandy side is supposed to face down, you know....;)

[harry strasil]

Old Time Safe Cracker technique.

[Jeff Willard]

Old Time Safe Cracker technique.

I remember that from Get Smart-always thought it was a joke.

[Jimmy Cox]

fortunately I use a sanding block for the flat portions. There are a lot of curves on this piece that a sanding block can't get into. And yes I'm using a folded piece or 320 to get inside and around everything.

I've been out there for the past hour or so with tape on the tips of my fingers and it seems to work but it takes away from the dexterity and the ability to feel the smoothness of the piece.

Any ideas???


I guess the good news is that I'm almost to the point where I can use steel wool.

[Jimmy Cox]

Old Time Safe Cracker technique. That must be way over my head.... Care to elaborate?

[harry strasil]

ie, leaves no clear finger prints for the cops to find.

[Keith Christopher]

True putting the sand paper around a block of dense foam rubber. gets in to all the nooks and crannies and the only time your finger tips get to rub anything if to feel if you have sanded enough.

[mickey cassiba]

Now's the time to go and rob a bank They'll never catch ya!:cool:

[harry strasil]

Uh-oh, time locks now. Duh

[johnny means]

I use gloves.:D

Seriously, I find that that cotton ones with the rubber coating do an excellent job of gripping the paper and are spongy enough to help get into little details and such. I usually just wear one and use the other hand for any thing that needs a bare hand.

[mickey cassiba]

Uh-oh, time locks now. Duh
Oop's, forgot...been a long time since my last bank job.

[Josiah Bartlett]

As a bassist I appreciate my hard to acquire callouses and try not to sand them off... I find that it helps to use hand lotion when doing stuff like that, and cotton gloves, or "Liquid Gloves" available from an autoparts store. Sometimes you just have to adjust your technique.

[Cary Falk]

I sand my finish with 600 grit paper (320 grit if it is real rough)and never had a problem with my fingers. If I applied that much pressure and a low enough grit to abrade my fingertips, I would have sanded through my finish. I also don't sand in between coats. I put 2-3 coats on then lightly sand and put the final coat on. If it is not smooth after that I might sand and put on another coat.

[Dan Forman]

Not sure just what the problem is, but these might help.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2005237/Contour-Sanding-Pads.aspx

Dan

[Wes Bischel]

I've used masking tape in a pinch, but this gauze from Lee Valley works really well.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=31213&cat=1,42207

FWIW, Wes

[Jeff Duncan]

As someone who's done a lot of sanding over the last 2 decades I know exactly what your dealing with. Matter of fact I have most of my fingers sanded down pretty well right now. Anyone who's ever sanded out a kitchens worth of cabinet doors would know too. Sanding blocks just don't cut it for certain things.
Can't help you much with a cure though, I usually use tape and/or band-aids, especially when they start to split, (New England winters are tough on the skin).


good luck,
JeffD

[Jimmy Cox]

I've used masking tape in a pinch, but this gauze from Lee Valley works really well.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=31213&cat=1,42207

FWIW, Wes Yep that's exactly what I was doing but with masking tape. The sanding is pretty much done it's now to the 0000 steel wool.


As someone who's done a lot of sanding over the last 2 decades I know exactly what your dealing with. Matter of fact I have most of my fingers sanded down pretty well right now. Anyone who's ever sanded out a kitchens worth of cabinet doors would know too. Sanding blocks just don't cut it for certain things.
Can't help you much with a cure though, I usually use tape and/or band-aids, especially when they start to split, (New England winters are tough on the skin).


good luck,
JeffDThanks, finishing is the part I loathe the most!!! I have done a complete kitchen and that too was a lot of work, however I took my time with those. I'm trying to get this one done a lot faster, so my fingers are paying the price!! I guess I should have had the foresight to protect them.... Next time I will know better. :D

Jimmy

[george wilson]

The Lee valley gauze has some rubbery gripping agent in it so it sticks to itself after it is wrapped on. However,it dries out over months and is useless. So,keep it in a small airtight container when not in use.

[Mike Cruz]

Would you believe: A piggy bank and a hammer? No? How about a Superman lunchbox?