making cabinet face frames square

[scott vroom]

Newbie question: Do you guys use any corner square jigs when construction cabinet face frames? I bought the Kreg K3 system and don't know if this is sufficient or if I should also be using some sort of squaring jig as well. thx.

[Bill Arnold]

I measure the diagonals - top left to lower right - top right to lower left - when the length is the same, it's square.

[Cary Falk]

I have built a few face frames using the Kreg. As long as my end cuts were square and the pieces were the correct length, I didn't have any problems with the end product being square.

[Steve Leverich]

Scott, Cary's comments are spot on - the pocket screws ALWAYS suck up the two pieces tight, so unless your CUTS are square, your face frames won't be either... Steve

[Joe Scharle]

I have built a few face frames using the Kreg. As long as my end cuts were square and the pieces were the correct length, I didn't have any problems with the end product being square.

So true...just like magic!

[Rod Sheridan]

Scott, Cary's comments are spot on - the pocket screws ALWAYS suck up the two pieces tight, so unless your CUTS are square, your face frames won't be either... Steve

That's true, however it isn't any different from M&T or cope and stick in that sense............Regards, Rod.

[Josiah Bartlett]

I use a picture framing corner clamp or a clamping square and double check the diagonal measurements. If I did a good job jointing the stock or made good tenons then it usually comes out square to the table, but I also like to clamp it flat to a table while the glue dries so it is square in 3 dimensions.

[Steve Leverich]

Rod, there is ONE difference with m/t, or cope/stick - usually, those joints don't use pocket screws and often pocket screws are used without glue - so a glued joint, if clamped/strapped square while the glue dries, can stay square (if not necessarily pretty :( ) while a glue-less pocket hole screwed joint (with all screws tight) will follow the inherent geometry of the cut joint faces... Steve

(This is not to say I personally don't use glue with pocket holes, but Kreg's videos show both ways - and for quick utility projects I often don't bother to glue. In no way am I advocating sloppy work in any joint, only pointing out that some methods can be "cheated" easier than others.)

[Steve Clardy]

As long as my end cuts were square and the pieces were the correct length, I didn't have any problems with the end product being square.


Ditto. I never check for square during or after assembly.

I keep my saws square so I can have square cuts.

[Norman Pyles]

I have built a few face frames using the Kreg. As long as my end cuts were square and the pieces were the correct length, I didn't have any problems with the end product being square.
What he said.

[Rod Sheridan]

Rod, there is ONE difference with m/t, or cope/stick - usually, those joints don't use pocket screws and often pocket screws are used without glue - so a glued joint, if clamped/strapped square while the glue dries, can stay square (if not necessarily pretty :( ) while a glue-less pocket hole screwed joint (with all screws tight) will follow the inherent geometry of the cut joint faces... Steve

(This is not to say I personally don't use glue with pocket holes, but Kreg's videos show both ways - and for quick utility projects I often don't bother to glue. In no way am I advocating sloppy work in any joint, only pointing out that some methods can be "cheated" easier than others.)

Very interesting Steve, thanks.

I've never used a pocket screw, I have seen them demonstrated, and didn't realize that some were glued, and some may not be.

Regards, Rod.