Stabilizing not-so-sound wood

[Mike Zipparo]

Cut some scrub oak on the large size for this type of tree (8-12" dia). Found various stages of decay and spalting. I would like to make the most of this wood, but some of the best looking pieces look to be too weak to turn. On some of the pieces, the chansaw noticed less resistance and the waste was somewhat powdery.

Any ideas on a way to stabilize the wood. I seem to recall some type of wood with something applied to provide additional support. Might have been a chemical that soaks in.

____________________________________

Mike

[alex carey]

I'm sure you'll get tons of feedback talking about CA and the such, I don't know much about it but I have to say good luck, that looks like some great wood with high potential.

[Jim Silva]

CA for anything of that size is impractical at best. I've been using Minwax Wood Hardener for years and it's never let me down and I have a habit of turning seriously decayed and powdery wood ;). http://www.minwax.com/products/wood_maintenance_and_repair/high_performance_wood_hardener.html

Clear, easy to apply, soaks in deeply which is a must in extremely pithy wood and turns well enough after applied.

Hope this helps
Jim

[Mike Zipparo]

Sounds like just the ticket, Jim. This wood is very green, cut just two days ago and currently sitting in the rain. Is it better to apply it with the wood wet, of should I let it dry out a bit?

Feelin a little more hopefull that this wood might take on a round form.

______________________________

Mike

[Harvey Mushman]

Loctite Resinol 90c is one of the standard stabilizing agents used.....Works great!....Might be tough to find in smaller quantities.

[David Christopher]

I use lacquer thinned about 50%, just let the piece soak overnight then dry completely

[Jim Silva]

I try to rough turn before applying the wood hardener as I don't want to be stabilizing wood I'm planning on getting rid of anyway. When a general form is established I'll apply the hardener, let dry, then turn away the tear out/ pithy stuff leaving a nice surface.

If it's so unstable as to be dangerous to rough turn I'd rethink that wood personally. However, if you're bound and determined to make something out of that projectile in waiting:D, you can stabilize the blank beforehand. I'd just prefer not to waste the product.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I do like Jim S. does. I get the basic form then add the wood hardener. If it is to bad I just don't waste time on punky free wood. I have had some really punky wood become a projectile.

[Ryan Baker]

+1 on the Minwax Wood Hardener. I've used a bunch of it lately, and it's great stuff. It goes fast though. As mentioned, if you can partially turn it first, you will save some hardener. You will probably have to apply hardener several times as you cut it farther. Also as mentioned, if it is really punky, it's probably not worth the effort. I've tried to save pieces numerous times and found them just not worth it.

[Matt Sollars]

Will i have the same results for flatboards.....i have some soft spalted elm. will it joint and plane ok with the hardener?

matt

[robert baccus]

ya'll are playing with toys. mix fiberglass resin(clear) to directions. thin with acetone to watery consistency(easy does it) and throw your roughedout piece and resin in a black VINYL bag. shake it every time you walk by and it will harden overnight. one big adv. is that it does not discolor the wood. an old boatbuilders trick!----------ol forester;)