Power twist link belt for Grizzly 1023

[Tullie Templet]

Can someone tell me what size and how long are all three belts combined on this model saw. From what I have read the are 3/8 3L size? And how much do I need as far as length. Thanks !!!

[Cliff Holmes]

As far as I know, vibration transfer is not an issue in a cabinet saw. A link belt would return little if any performance.

[Alex Shanku]

Link belts are my last choice when replacing belts.

Cogged, regular, link - in that order.

[Jason White]

I have a newer Grizzly 1023 and while the belts are still in very good shape, I don't see ever replacing them with link belts as the factory ones work just fine.

I did recently replace an old bandsaw V-type type belt with a link belt, however, and it does work well for that. They're also quite pricey, depending on how much you need.

I've always wondered if automotive belts from a place like Pep Boys, Auto Zone, etc. might work?? Probably cheaper than ordering replacement belts from the manufacturer.

Jason


Can someone tell me what size and how long are all three belts combined on this model saw. From what I have read the are 3/8 3L size? And how much do I need as far as length. Thanks !!!

[Gary McKown]

When I bought my second-hand 1023SL, the belts seemed quite stiff so I decided to replace. A call to Grizzly brought the recommendation of their link-belt package. It comes with 3 4-ft sections, and there was enough left over to also do my drill press.

I don't know whether the links were necessary, but I get good power transfer and it is far easier to make the tension adjustment that eliminates the shudder when the motor brake activates.

[Mike Cruz]

I second what Gary said. I put them on my Uni. The reason was that the original belts were either never (when new) all the same length, or one had stretched or something (when I bought it...used). One of the joys to the powertwists is that you make them whatever length you want and all the same. (Of course you make them the length of the original belt...)

Tullie, if you are going to get them, which obviously you don't, but if you decide to, search this forum in Deals and Discounts for a thread I started on Powertwists. The guy I got them from offers the best price I could find, plus he says if you go straight to him (as opposed to off his Ebay listings) he can give you a little better deal. Mention you saw it on a woodworking forum.

And no, I am in no way affiliated with this guy. I get no kickbacks or free product. I just found an honest distributor at a great price and am happy to pass business his way.

[Steve Clardy]

Got mine from Griz for my 1023.

It took two of the 4' belts to make the 3 belts, with some left over.

[Tony Zaffuto]

The problem I would think, would be getting all three identical. I know you could "count links", but when using a multiple belt system, you generally buy matched belt sets.

[Steve Clardy]

Each link is about 3/4" long.

When I put mine on, I made the first one the length required. Then simply laid it next to the link stock to get the number of links for the other 2 belts.

[Mike Cruz]

Believe it or not, each link is EXACTLY the same size. So when you make three belts with 62 links, they are all EXACTLY the same length.

My understanding of regular belts is that if you want them EXACTLY the same size, you need "matched sets" or "sequential belts". It really isn't that hard to find them, and there is nothing wrong with normal "V" belts. I just have the Powertwists on my TS, BS, and Jointer and like their performance. I have to admit, when I got my Planer (used) I replaced the belts with factory belts...matched ones.

[Cliff Holmes]

make the tension adjustment that eliminates the shudder when the motor brake activates.

What adjustment do you make? I just tried a link belt on my jointer, sized in accordance with the directions, and there's a lot of flapping. Do I start taking out links? Or is it too tight? It's all I can do to slip the belt over the pulley edge.

[glenn bradley]

Sounds like Steve's got your answer. I have never had whatever the problem is that turns people off of these. I have them on everything that will take them and they have never done anything but just work smoothly and quietly. The noise reduction on my bandsaw and jointer was pretty surprising. The only other belt that has been this trouble free is the poly-v on my tablesaw.

[Alex Shanku]

Sounds like Steve's got your answer. I have never had whatever the problem is that turns people off of these. I have them on everything that will take them and they have never done anything but just work smoothly and quietly. The noise reduction on my bandsaw and jointer was pretty surprising. The only other belt that has been this trouble free is the poly-v on my tablesaw.


The problems I have encountered are that they slip much easier than a cogged belt, as well as apparently wear away the sheaves on cast aluminum pulleys.

[Mike Cruz]

Alex, are you tightening the belt enough? I have never had mine slip.

[Alex Shanku]

Alex, are you tightening the belt enough? I have never had mine slip.

Just as tight as any traditional, cogged belt.

Belts shouldnt need to be that tight, at all, imo. At least traditional or cogged belts. There is plenty of friction between the belt and the sheaves to allow significant deflection when "squeezing" the belts toward each other, and not have slap or slippage occur. I am of the opinion the less lateral load you place on the shafts/bearings, which occurs in the case of a tight belt, the better.

I currently dont have any references to the literature to support my claim, but base it on my personal experiences in the shop.

I have had a link belt slip numerous times on my bandsaw, while I was awaiting my new belt to arrive.

I would say, that if whoever uses them has success, then so be it, I just cannot say the same.

[Mike Cruz]

Fair enough. Sorry, I wasn't making accusations or claiming fault.

Pardon my ignorace, but when you are talking about cogged belts are you refering to a flat belt with grooves? If so, I haven't had any experience with using Powertwists on that type of drive. I use them on my machines that are designed to take V-belts.

Secondly, most of my manuals suggest that there should be only 1" deflection when properly tightened. In my experience, you have to apply some pressure to achieve that, though I fully understand your view on putting less stress on the motor shaft and bearings.

[glenn bradley]

The problems I have encountered are that they slip much easier than a cogged belt, as well as apparently wear away the sheaves on cast aluminum pulleys.

Ah, I am betting some of my better experience with them is directly related to my low volume, hobbyist use. I haven't had slip issues but my use is pretty light relative to the machines that I run. I have read threads of problems with 5HP and up machines and long production runs. I appreciate the info though as my jointer runs cast sheaves and they are not located where I would easily see them. I'm gonna give them a check just for safety.

[Mike Cruz]

Ahhhh, from me too. I have them on a 1, 1.5, and 3 hp machines. I don't have anything of the 5 HP caliber. Maybe that is an issue as well....

Alex, are you running 5 hp? or long runs?

[Josiah Bartlett]

I have a newer Grizzly 1023 and while the belts are still in very good shape, I don't see ever replacing them with link belts as the factory ones work just fine.

I did recently replace an old bandsaw V-type type belt with a link belt, however, and it does work well for that. They're also quite pricey, depending on how much you need.

I've always wondered if automotive belts from a place like Pep Boys, Auto Zone, etc. might work?? Probably cheaper than ordering replacement belts from the manufacturer.

Jason

Automotive V belts have the wrong profile for machinery, unless you change out the pulleys.

If you are having vibration problems with a cabinet saw, check the bearings and change the pulleys to balanced.