Covering Plywood Edges on a Table Top

[Darrin Davis]

I've seen this done many ways and have tried every one of them myself. But, has anyone ever tried to frame the outside of the top with 2 inch solid wood using pocket screws? My thought was to lay everything upside down and use Locking C Clamps to register the tops flat on the table. The screws would them suck the pieces together obviously with glue. Anyone ever try this. Or, does anyone have another method they prefer?

Thanks
130515

[Jeff Monson]

I use dominos for edging on tabletops, I would think pocket screws and glue would work but I dont think they would be as strong. A tounge and groove would also be easy with a slot cutter and straight bit on the router table.

[Lawrence Smith]

I have never attached outer banding with pocket hole screws but I don't see why it would not work. However, I would definitely install wooden keys in the corners to keep the mitered joints flat. You could use some complimentry colored wood for the keys and it should look pretty slick.

The way I usually do it is after dadoing the outer wooden banding, I often just glue the banding to the plywood. I also fasten it with screws. If you don't want to see the screw heads you can always drill either 3/8 or 1/2" holes in the banding, sink the screw heads down into the holes and cover them with wooden plugs. This is the way it is often done on boats and it looks very professional.

Hope this helps

Larry

[mike wacker]

Pocket screws do anything. But seriously I find this particular application really slick. Make sure you "pad" the thinner piece with scrap so your "vice-grip" clamp can firmly hold both pieces down. Make sure the trim piece is held firm against the top before you insert a screw. Use either bar clamps or the right angle (hole clamps from Kreg as I call them) vise-grip type with the post that fits in a pocket hole.

[Tony Bilello]

I have used 2" X 2" edging on what I referred to as "Library Tables". Most of the tops were covered with Plastic laminate. I Used a heavy 3HP Bosch router with a slot cutter and slotted the table edge and the 2" square edging. I used 1/4" Luan strips for a spline. By using a slot cutter and working from the top surface and also gluing face up, I could see my joint and level everything as I was going along. It worked for me.
I would think the proplem with pocket screws is that the face is down and you wont know if anything shifted untill you were finished and turned it over. But, if it works for you, then that is the best way for you to do it.

[David Prince]

I have had very good results with biscuits and glue.

[John Harden]

I think it'd work fine, but wonder why you'd bother. I can't imagine pocket screws adding any real strength to the joint. All the strength is going to come from the glue, which we know, when properly applied is stronger than the wood itself.

I suppose it might help to register the two faces.

Regards,

John

[Darrin Davis]

I'm more worried about the plywood top lining up PERFECT with the edging. We've all sanded through the top veneer and I was just interested in all the ways to ensure the VERY LITTLE sanding had to be done.

[Jim Summers]

I have done it with the dowelmax. Lines up near perfect and what isn't lined up is easily ( read lightly ) scraped and sanded flush.

HTH

[Greg Coleman]

I do it all the time. Shelf edging too. I pull the screws out when the glue sets.

[Peter Quinn]

Beyond what has been suggested I would recommend running the screws in dry on all pieces, disassembling, then proceeding with glue up. Glue makes a fine lubricant before it becomes an adhesive, and the screws tend to find the holes better the second time. I would probably skip the screws myself if you have enough clamps, though I see no reason it shouldn't work. I don't like the idea of having the show face blind during any glue up though.

[Tony Bilello]

I'm more worried about the plywood top lining up PERFECT with the edging. We've all sanded through the top veneer and I was just interested in all the ways to ensure the VERY LITTLE sanding had to be done.

If you are woried about the plywood top lining up perfect with the edging, like most of us, you will have to be able to see what you are doing. You will not be able to see or assure a good lineup if you are doing it upside down. That's a hard arguement to beat.

[Doug Shepard]

I'm more worried about the plywood top lining up PERFECT with the edging. We've all sanded through the top veneer and I was just interested in all the ways to ensure the VERY LITTLE sanding had to be done.

I often do this with regular shelf ply edging. Whether you attach with pocket screws, biscuits, splines, just glue, whatever, make it so that the edging sticks up proud of the ply about 1/64"-1/32". After it's cured you can trim it flush to the ply. A little more work but you can always take a skosh off the edging. The py is less forgiving.

[glenn bradley]

I have a rolling worktable that I framed the top on that way. Mitered corners and a rabbet to accept a replaceable work surface. I planned to use it temporarily 5 or 6 years ago. Still going . . .

[Pete Janke]

I've seen this done many ways and have tried every one of them myself. But, has anyone ever tried to frame the outside of the top with 2 inch solid wood using pocket screws? My thought was to lay everything upside down and use Locking C Clamps to register the tops flat on the table. The screws would them suck the pieces together obviously with glue. Anyone ever try this. Or, does anyone have another method they prefer?

Thanks
130515
I have done it exactly the way you mentioned a number of times with good success. I have also used a large scrap placed beneath the top and frame along with clamps to register both pieces against the flat surface before gluing up and driving the screws. I have also messed up a few :eek: when the trim moved and then carefully sanded or used a flush trim bit (3/4" material) to even everything up. Pocket screws are cool.

[Roger Benton]

i usually make my solid edging 1/16" or so thicker than the ply, and plane/scrape it flush after glue up, which also takes care of glue squeeze out.
with pocket screws i like to clamp across the piece, securing two opposing edges, make sure they are lined up properly, and THEN drill the pocket holes, drive the screws, take it all apart, and do it again with glue. the pre drilled holes will position the edging perfectly.
as far as strength, i am of the opinion that the screws will add a ton of it.
a glue bond is of course stronger than the wood itself in most cases, but with most plywood being cross laminated, a 3/4" edge will be composed of about 3/8" end grain, which is a terrible glue surface, and 3/8" long grain, and that's not a whole lot of glue area.
just my opinion though....