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Bill Berg
10-18-2009, 5:57 PM
Hi guys. I've been around for a while but don't post much. Have been working on this highboy and am ready for some advice as this is the first "reproduction" piece that I have tackled (Carlyle Lynch plans). Hopefully you can help me with a few questions...

1. I'm not sure how to finish off the shape of the knee blocks. Does anyone have a picture or other advice that might help?
2. I'm fairly new to handcut dovetails. Are there any tricks to cutting the halfblinds since there is a lip around the sides and top? I'm looking for some motivation since all the dt's in the upper case have not been any picnic with the tiger maple (but I am satisfied with the outcome so far).
3. If anyone spots something with the leg shape (or the project in general) to make it better- which I can still modify that would be great.
4. I'm interested in finish recipes for this if anyone has any thoughts.

Thanks for your help and sorry about the poor pictures.

Robert Rozaieski
10-18-2009, 6:16 PM
Bill,
Let me start by saying that the piece looks fantastic. I think you are doing a great job.



1. I'm not sure how to finish off the shape of the knee blocks. Does anyone have a picture or other advice that might help?
What exactly do you need help with? They look pretty finished to me. They should follow the curves from the knee and blend into the leg. From the pics it looks like you did just fine here.


2. I'm fairly new to handcut dovetails. Are there any tricks to cutting the halfblinds since there is a lip around the sides and top? I'm looking for some motivation since all the dt's in the upper case have not been any picnic with the tiger maple (but I am satisfied with the outcome so far).
No tricks really. Just watch your sawing so you don't saw the lip. The lip is typically pretty small, like 3/16"-1/4", so sawing shouldn't be a big deal, just pay attention. You can extend the saw kerf past the baseline on the inside of the drawer to help aid in wast removal. This was typical for the period. Keep your chisels very sharp and take it slow. By the looks of the rest of the piece, you should be just fine. Do a practice piece first and when you transfer the pins to the tails, saw completely on the waste side of the line, leaving the line (it's on the keep part of the joint). Mark your waste side clearly to make sure you don't saw on the wrong side of the line. DAMHIKT.


3. If anyone spots something with the leg shape (or the project in general) to make it better- which I can still modify that would be great.
I think they look good, don't over analyze them. Any more shaping might make the curves too severe, which is just as bad as too straight. The curves should be subtle but continuous. I think you've got it good.


4. I'm interested in finish recipes for this if anyone has any thoughts.

Several years ago there was an article on period finishes by David Salisbury (from Colonial Willimasburg) and how to apply them. You might look it up on their web site. Whatever you decide to do for a finish, take your time. It is often said that a good finish can take just as long as building the piece. I think this may be exagerating a little, but the point is to take your time and don't rush it.

Keep it up and be sure to post a few pics when you are done. It looks great!

Dave Anderson NH
10-18-2009, 6:41 PM
Bill, the knee blocks look fine to me.They blend properly and the curves are continuous.

I don't know what to tell you on the finish. Everything depends on the coloration you want. That will define the steps and from there, everything else is a matter of making one of several good choices. Personally, I like the reddish look with tiger maple and my schedule usually goes:

1)Flood heavily with Transtint Brown dye.
2)sand off all the brown except for that which stays in the corners, crevices, and in the tiger stripes.
3) Flood again heavily with Transtint reddish brown. Let dry for 24 hours
4) Oil with BLO and wipe off excess. Let dry 3 days to a week depending on temperature and humidity.
5) Top coat with 2 coats of dewaxed blonde shellac or Sealcoat.
6) Sand lightly with 400 grit to remove raised grain captured by the shellac.
7) Build up coats of Garnet shellac to the level of smootheness and thickness you desire.
8) Let shellac rest and harden up for a week and rub out.

Chuck Hamman
10-19-2009, 11:08 PM
Bill,
I have to agree with the others, the highboy looks great. Just curious if you turned the foot of the legs on a lathe or did you shape them with rasp and file?
I've never worked with tiger maple but Rob Millard built a chest on frame and here is a link to his article on the project. His finishing process is similar to Dave's with a little twist. He heats the BLO.

http://www.americanfederalperiod.com/Chest%20on%20Frame.html

Bend a piece of aluminum flashing to cover the drawer lip and you can concentrate more on the saw cut without worrying about knicking the lip.

Regards,
-Chuck

John Keeton
10-20-2009, 7:51 AM
Bill, that is some beautiful work on the highboy! I can't add much to what has been said, but I did present a similar question at one time on the half blinds with a lip. I was encouraged to leave a slight "land" abutting the overlay lip - such that the tails did not extend all the way to the lip.

I interpret this as treating the inside face of the overlay lip as the outside face of the drawer front when laying out the dovetails. Of course, this presumes a drawer front that is closer to 7/8" or better. I have not had an opportunity to put that in to practice, yet, so just passing along what I was told.

Dave, thanks for the finish schedule for the curly maple! I have added that to my finish folder. I also recall someone using Moser's Honey Maple Amber dye (may not have those names in order?) and it produced a really rich color, as well, with very pronounced figure.

Bill Berg
10-20-2009, 9:25 AM
Thanks for the comments guys.

Bob- I appreciate you confirming the shape of the knee blocks and legs. I'll just clean them up a bit more and call it complete.

Dave- That finish schedule looks like a good start. I'll play with it on some scraps over the next few weeks. Thanks.

Chuck- I turned the pad/foot of the legs.

John- I read your drawer thread but am not sure I'm sold on the land concept... but will probably try a sample just to see how it goes. It seems to be a lot of chisel work regardless unless you saw into the back of the drawer front. Also, I've saved the best stock for the drawer fronts and it will probably clean up around 13/16" which will limit the land to maybe 1/16"