Re-gluing joints

[Doug Hobkirk]

I repair furniture at a household goods recycling center for needy people. Often I cannot remove all the glue from a joint that has failed and I must re-glue atop the remnants of the original glue. If the furniture is old, I use Tite Bond's liquid hide glue. But I don't know what to use when the original glue remnants look like a wood glue - white/yellow and crystallized.

What are my best bets? Thanks.

[Paul Atkins]

And you cannot remove all the glue because------?

[Doug Hobkirk]

I can't remove the glue because it's in a dowel hole that cannot be afford to be enlarged in the slightest, or because the wood is too fragile, or because the pieces cannot be separated to get good access without a lot of extra work, etc., etc. And because there are only so many hours in a day. This is not restoration of fine antiques. Yesterday the following arrived in the workshop to be repaired: a king-size head board, 2 bookcases, 3 bureaus, a table, a foot stool, one chair, one end table, and about 30 lamps to be checked. I also refinished (sanded and stained) the oak arms on an office chair and a table top.

I am looking for pragmatic help, not criticism. This is a volunteer job.

[Al Navas]

Doug,

Bob Smalser has posted on SMC a must-read: "Are your Glue Joints Repairable?" It is an enjoyable read, and VERY instructional. It dates back to mid-2005, but is still archived here on SMC (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=21822).


.

[jerry nazard]

Doug,

There is a product called WonderLoc, sold by Rockler and many hardware stores, that could be practical in your situation. It's a CA glue that you just inject into the joint. I have not used this stuff myself, but my friends at the local hardware store report good customer feedback and sales.

Best!

-Jerry

[Doug Hobkirk]

Al - I read Bob Smalser's "Are your Glue Joints Repairable?" 6-12 months ago- it was FANTASTIC! But, unless I missed something, his discussion concerns what glue you should use in new joints for the sake of future repairability, not how to repair an un-glued joint in the future.

Jerry - The product you site is designed for injecting into loose chair rungs. I haven't used it yet but I think it sounds good. The specific "joint" I am repairing now is a 5' long 3/4" wide dado - that would take a lot of Wonder-Loc!

I thought my question would elicit several experienced replies identifying one or two superior glues for this situation.

[Howard Acheson]

Our shop repaired lots of furniture. The primary adhesive was slow set, two part epoxy. It does not require thorough removal of the old adhesive for maximum adhesion. It is also gap filling so the joints do not have to be tight. Finally, the repair is pretty much permanent but the joint can be opened up later if needed.