What I am doing wrong?

[Eduard Nemirovsky]

I know, I am doing something wrong, but what:confused:?
Using table router with round over bit and fence. Why do I have at the end of my routing edge this step-up? Do I need to adjust out fence? But for how much? - just by eye, or I can predict size of this step?
Help me please.:o:o:o
Ed.

[Joe Scharle]

Looks like your workpiece is being pulled away from the cutter. I always back up end cuts with a piece of scrap and feed both through. And I keep the fence as closed as possible. In fact, on some bits I.E. lock miter, I will attach a sacrificial fence that only the cutting profile protrudes. This prevents the workpiece from ever being exposed to a gap. Use it over and over.

[Rich Neighbarger]

I'll go out on a limb here and say that either your fence moved or your bit slipped.

[Michael Schwartz]

It looks to me that your trying to take too much off in one pass, and the wood is pulling its self away from the bit.

Try taking a few passes and creep up on the full profile.

Make sure your fence is straight as well and its not causing you to pivot your work out when you reach the end as well.

[John Keeton]

Looked at the pics again, and I agree with the others, as well.

It may also be that once you make a pass on one side with the roundover, the bearing rarely rides the high spot on the board for the other side and can often give an irregular cut.

[Bill Huber]

Get a round over bit with a bearing on it and you won't have any more problems.

I only use the ones with a bearing on them and it works very well, I still use the fence but I have the fence set at the same plane as the bearing.

[Robert LaPlaca]

Any chance you are shaping the entire thickness of the board? If you are you need to either template shape the edge, or you need to use a split fence where the outfeed portion of the fence needs to be closer to the front of the router table to account for the material removed from shaping the edge (i.e. the thickness of the removed chip)..

[Eduard Nemirovsky]

Thank you guys, my bit doesn't have a bearing. I even make a zero insert in my fence but still have this runoff at the end.
Robert, you are correct, I am routing a full thickness of the board. I will try your suggestion tomorrow. Now time go to work.
Thank again, Ed.

[Peter Quinn]

Make sure your fence is straight end to end, minimize the gap, and make sure your fence is set flush to the deepest part of the cutting arc of the bit. A bearing is not essential for the router table, but it does make set up easier. I set a shaper up with a straight edge and rarely use a bearing. I don't like using a split fence with a jointing cut on the router table because they are tricky to set up unless you have an adjustable out feed fence. Advancing a test piece a few inches into the cutter should let you know if you are flush with the deepest arc or are actually cutting deeper.

For the end grain on narrow pieces like you show I prefer to use a coping block to pass the work both to minimize chip out and pass the work smoothly .

[Anthony Whitesell]

How wide is the opening in your fence? It could be that the board is too narrow and is "falling" into the fence opening due to lack of support/reference edge on the outfeed side.

[Wayne Cannon]

The center photo looks like you are getting snipe. Your fence isn't exactly aligned with the bit -- it doesn't take much. It looks like the bit is protruding slightly beyond the fences. This doesn't explain the left and right photos, however.
At the beginning of the cut, the trimmed portion of the workpiece doesn't quite rest solidly against the outfeed fence, though it may be so close as to appear to. As the cut proceeds, the workpiece rests more solidly against the outfeed fence and bridges the two fences -- the cut gradually getting a tiny bit deeper. When the workpiece clears the infeed fence, it drops back fully against the outfeed fence and cuts a sudden snipe in the end the length of the distance from the infeed fence to the bit.
One solution is to adjust the fence to exactly match the bit. This means that there will be zero material removed at the outer edge of the profile. While this sounds easy, it's tricky to do based on a cutting edge as opposed to a bearing.

The other solution is to shim, or otherwise adjust, the outfeed fence separate from the infeed fence to exactly match the cut coming off of the router bit. This is the purpose for separate infeed fence and outfeed fence adjustments or shims.

A bearing-guided bit will help, but you will still get a short snipe when the workpiece drops clear of the bearing at the end of the cut. The bearing does, however, provide an much easier reference with which to align your fences, instead of trying to use the cutting edge.

[Stephen Edwards]

+1 for using bearing bits, the best that you can afford, especially for bits that you use often. Finally, after all these years I'm learning that lesson.

[Eduard Nemirovsky]

I solve my problem with this coping jig:D, just a few hours to make from whatever I have in a shop ( surprisingly I have a lot of stuff:D:D:D:D)

[Lee Schierer]

Your fence is not adjusted correctly to the bit. It appears that the edge of your curve is not in line with the face of the fence and you are in fact removing more material than necessary to achieve a rounded edge. The face of the fence has to be exactly tangent to the inner most surface of the bit.

Take a piece of scrap about 10" long and start a cut. Cut 2-3" and then turn off the router. If the edge of the cut area looks like this (cut______/----------- not cut) then move your fence toward the edge of your bit until you get a cut that is even all the way across. Your board should not end up any smaller in length or width after you round over the edge than it was to start if the fence is set right to the cutting surface of the bit.

What I normally do is set the fence so the bit just starts to cut off the corner. Then move the fence back a little at a time until I get a fully rounded edge. If you move it too far back you get the sort of cuts you are seeing.

[Mike Cruz]

Are you kidding? That is ART! People pay loads for that kinda thing. Just say it is that way by DESIGN. "Do you know how much time it took me to adjust my fences to get this look!"

Hey, sound like you already had gotten some very good advice. I just thought I would throw in a different angle...

[mreza Salav]

I've had similar situations and the problem has been the following:
The fence is not straight, there is a deep in the center (where the bit is), so when the piece is riding on the fence once it is passed the first piece of the fence it "deeps" into the bit and gives you that step, so the end of the piece being routed deeper. This can happen even if you have bearings on the bit unless the bit is out enough so that the piece is actually riding on the bearing and not on the fence.