face frame ?

[mike graveling]

just wanted to know what different methods you guys are using to attach your face frames to your cabinets.

[frank shic]

glue and clamp, face nailing, pocket screws are your main options. i go for the pocket screws in the rare instances where i use a face frame (usually build frameless cabinets) since most of the time you can't see them from the sides or even the interior and it frees up clamps and is fast.

[Lee Schierer]

I usually just use glue, sometimes I rabbet my face frames to aid in alignment. I have also used pocket hole screws when the pocket holes won't bee seen in the finished application.

[Michael Heffernan]

I have sometimes used my biscuit joiner and glue, but layout and lining it up is time consuming.
I have found that glue, a few pins with my pin nailer and clamps are fast and structurally all you usually need. Just make sure that your cabinet carcasses are square, as well as the face frames. It only takes a few minutes for me to attach a face frame and clamp it until the glue dries.

[David Peterson MN]

Pocket screws on an unexposed end if it can be hidden otherwise just glue with ALOT of clamps. I wasn't certain on the glue only until I found some professional cabinetmakers in my area that use that technique exclusively. Others in my area use glue and then nail the face frames to the carcasses. I am sure others may disagree though about the glue only. I will be following this post closely.

[Mike Heidrick]

I cut pocket holes under my fixed shelves/bottoms/tops(if the design has any of these pieces) before assembly of the carcase. I pocket screw the FF to these and glue and clamp the stiles to the verticle edges.

[Anthony Anderson]

Pocket holes and screws with Titebond II to join the face frame.

Fasten the face frame to carcass with 23 gauge pins and glue.

Hope this helps.

[Chip Lindley]

Glue alone may be enough to hold FFs in place securely, but *alignment* is still the issue. I dislike the idea of finish nails in FFs! It's just a *personal-best* thing with me!

I use two biscuit joiners to cut slots that align FFs, allowing for 1/8" overhang of the carcass sides. Each has it's fence aligned so the FF will ultimately mate with the carcass. A 5/32 slotting router bit can also be used on the full length of carcass ends so that slot alignment is automatic with less measuring.

[frank shic]

so what are you building, mike???

[Steve Clardy]

Glue, clamp, brad from the inside.

[mike graveling]

I am building kitchen cabinets for my inlaws

[mike graveling]

Glue, clamp, brad from the inside.

I'm assuming that you remove the clamps right after you brad nail it ?

[Harold Burrell]

I am building kitchen cabinets for my inlaws

Oh...in that case, use duct tape.

;):D

[Tom Schmidt]

Remove the clamps? Are you serious? No wonder my damn cabinets are so hard to mount on the wall. Not to mention the cost of replacing each one every time I build something. Now I'll have money to pay the electric bill again. Thank you, thank you, thank you.

[mike graveling]

Remove the clamps? Are you serious? No wonder my damn cabinets are so hard to mount on the wall. Not to mention the cost of replacing each one every time I build something. Now I'll have money to pay the electric bill again. Thank you, thank you, thank you.

ha, ha, very funny, i want to know weather he's keeping the clamps on till the glue dries or if he takes them off as soon as he shoots the brad nails in.

[Steve Clardy]

Remove the clamps? Are you serious? No wonder my damn cabinets are so hard to mount on the wall. Not to mention the cost of replacing each one every time I build something. Now I'll have money to pay the electric bill again. Thank you, thank you, thank you.

ROFLOL. Thats good. :D


ha, ha, very funny, i want to know weather he's keeping the clamps on till the glue dries or if he takes them off as soon as he shoots the brad nails in.



Yes I do.

[Tom Schmidt]

ha, ha, very funny, i want to know weather he's keeping the clamps on till the glue dries or if he takes them off as soon as he shoots the brad nails in.

Mike - I hope you realize I wasn't making fun of you or your question, I was just being silly. I'm sorry if my answer upset you, which it sounds like it did.

[Rick Gooden]

Tongue and groove (Sommerfeld style) and glue. Solves any alignment problems, square is built into the process. I have been using this method for about 2 years and am very happy with the results.

[scott vroom]

Tongue and groove (Sommerfeld style) and glue. Solves any alignment problems, square is built into the process. I have been using this method for about 2 years and am very happy with the results.

Rick, how do you handle the top and bottom ends of the stiles? Do you run a horizontal groove and then stop it just short of the outside stile edge?

I like the idea of a dado or tongue and groove because, as you point out, it builds square into the process.

[Bob Wingard]

+1 on the Sommerfeld system. They had some serious dimensional issues with the early version made for them by CMT, but they seem to have it pretty well worked out now. I think Woodline and a few other vendors are now selling their versions of this setup. Look for "OFFSET TONGUE & GROOVE" bit set. I'm making a large Federal style bookcase for my son & dil for Christmas and used this system .. .. it is perfection every time with NO tedious setup. This system is a snap to use and is foolproof.