1023 assembly question

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I am taking the day off to get my 1023 assembled. I have now cleaned the 1st wing and curiosity has me getting out the straight edge and checking for flat. I can see a wee bit of daylight in the center areas of both the wing and the top, but neither is big enough for a dollar bill to pass through. Is this acceptable for flatness?

So far I am impressed with the quality of the machining and finish. Last nite the mobile base (Shop Fox) went on underneath the saw (thanks to Ipe blocks) and it's rolling now. I hope to get it all assembled today, but since I want the sliding table on the outside of the extension table on the left, I may have to fab up a bracket to mount the lower frame rail to.

[Dennis Peacock]

Sure.....it's ok.....You're talking 6 thousandths there. The wood nor the saw will know any difference. :p :D

[Chris Padilla]

Kelly,

Nice...my tables/wings weren't perfectly flat either (according to my Starrett straight-edge) and I used a feeler gauge to measure the difference and it was under 0.010" IIRC. Didn't bother me. I don't know the thickness of a dollar bill, however but it must be in the 10 mil range, I think.

[Dennis Peacock]

Kelly,
I don't know the thickness of a dollar bill, however but it must be in the 10 mil range, I think.

Should be around .006"......6 thousandths... :)

[Dan Stuewe]

I want the sliding table on the outside of the extension table on the left, I may have to fab up a bracket to mount the lower frame rail to.

I am by far no expert, but what I have read is that the ideal for a sliding table is to be right up next to the blade (a' la euro sliders). So your plan of putting it even further away seems like it would go against my interpretation of the conventional wisdom. (My guess as to why you want the slider as close to the blade as possible is so that the wood is not sliding on anything, it is completely riding on the carriage.) What do all you experts think?

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I've seen both setups...mine is going to be mostly cabinet casework and I would like the extra capacity. I have yet to hear that setting one up this way has a negative impact on the work. Actually, even without an extension table, the work would be riding partly on the tabletop next to the blade.

.006 isn't going to be an issue, I had no idea a dollar was that thin...:D Thanks guys!

[Kent Cori]

Kelly,

Mine was similar to yours. I couldn't push a piece of paper under the straigh edge. It certainly has not caused any real world issue when I use it.

You're gonna love your new Griz! :) :) :)

[Jim Becker]

I've seen both setups...mine is going to be mostly cabinet casework and I would like the extra capacity. I have yet to hear that setting one up this way has a negative impact on the work. Actually, even without an extension table, the work would be riding partly on the tabletop next to the blade. Adding the extra width of the wing will not affect "straight" crosscuts on material or cut-off work with panels, but it may make angled/miter cuts more cumbersome due to the relocation of the pivot point in relation to the blade.

(Congratulations on the new saw, Kelly!!)

[Kevin Gerstenecker]

Congrat's on the new Griz Kelly. You're gonna love that saw..............I really like mine...........money well spent! (I have the MJ Splitter on it now too........that little thing is really nice!) ;)

[Scott Coffelt]

Kevin, I am glad the splitter worked for you. I liked mine, funny thing is I installed it a few days before the BBQ. I've only had it since February. I was holding out until I built an overhead guard. No guard yet, but is on the short list of to do's for the shop.

[Mike Keating]

Hey there Kelly,

The 1023 is a great saw, I got mine in April and I absolutely love it. My table top was perfect when I got everything together accordingto the old straight edge, but it did take a while to get the ext wing to meet the top and be perfectly flat. I think it had alot to do with the fact I was working alone and those ext. wings are not the lightest things in the world.
Did you get the 1023S or 1023SL, because I when I bought the saw the sales rep reminded my wife (who baught the saw for my birthday, stealth wife gloat) that the 1023SL could not support a sliding table, due to the fact the saw is left tilt and the resulting construction. If it is a 1023SL I found the delta sliding mitre gauge (the very big one) works very well and supports pieces up to 5 feet long.
Congrats again on the saw, I know you will be happy with it.

Mike Keating

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I finished up the initial saw assembly last nite. Aside from the small dip in the middle of the extension table, I went ahead and got both on (by myself). It wasn't too hard since I am used to working by myself (I have an employee these days, but for many years it was just me).

I followed all the instructions and found that everything fit very well. The finish on all the parts exceeded my expectations. When I got the fence rails done and the fence mounted, I was pleasantly surprised to find that it worked flawlesly. I only needed to turn one screw to get it adjusted right. It glides across the table very smoothly.

I bought the 1023S so the sliding table would work and in unpacking it I found bolts missing, so I took a short trip to our local hardware store. I was going to go to Lowe's, but it was rush hour. After I got back I drilled the necessary holes in the left extension wing. Since I will be doing almost 100% straight crosscutting and very few angled cuts, I wanted the extra capacity on the left of the blade. That way I also won't have to cut the fence rails. Since the slding table will now be mounted further away from the cabinet, I am going to have to add an auxiliary mounting 'plate' made of hardwood (like a shelf) to attach the bottom rail to.

I will also need a hardwood spacer board between the top rail and the table since the spacers in the sliding table bolt pack were missing. I would have called Grizzly, but since mine is going to be a cutsom installation anyway, I didn't want to wait for the parts.

Right now the only thing keeping me from starting the saw is the cord...I have yet to get one and for those who have the 1023, where did you get your cord and what guage, etc?

I can't wait to get it all together and cut a zero clearance insert so I can install the splitter I won at Terry's. Thanks for the congrats guys, I am tickled pink to finally have a good saw in the shop.

[Jim Becker]

Kelly, old buddy, old pal...the Picture Police are going to be swooping in here "real soon now"...

[Dick Parr]

Congratulations Kelly! Sounds like your 1023S went together like my 1023SL, very easy. You will enjoy it a lot.

Have fun!

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Jim...funny you should say that I was just uploading pics to the server...Tyler will have to hunt someone else down today....:D

http://www.hannawoodworks.com/1023backrail1.jpg

http://www.hannawoodworks.com/1023backrail.jpg

http://www.hannawoodworks.com/1023frontrail1.jpg

http://www.hannawoodworks.com/1023frontrail2.jpg

http://www.hannawoodworks.com/1023complete.jpg

[Dick Parr]

That is Sweet!

[Kent Cori]

Kelly,

I have my SL on the same Shop Fox mobile base. It works very well. I almost never lower the feet as it stays put on a flat floor pretty well.

[Mike Keating]

Kelly,

FOr my 1023SL I made an extension cord (since I only have 1 220V outlet in the shop.) My planer works on 220V and I made an extension cord to fit into the outlet. I can not remember the type of cord I used, I can tell you that it does not bend easy. I think it is 12 or 15, but I can not remember sitting at this desk, I can tell you for definite when I get home (I think it is 12). I was reading that a 15 gauge would be able to handle the load, but a 12 would be safer. I went for the safety and made the plug fit the cord I built for the planer.
It was been working fine, and I have been using this set up for about a year with the planer and 6 months or so with the TS. I have never tripped a breaker or shorted anything out.
I must say, after a day in the shop I do not look forward to putting that cord away, does not bend at all like the standard orange cords.
I really want to see the custom slider. I was thinking about a slider, since I am building more cabinets, and I would need on to come out more since i have a left tilt.

Good Luck and work safe

Mike

[Chris Padilla]

Home Depot sells some nice, flexible 10/3 or 12/3 rubber coated electrical cord/line. I have 12/3 on my 1023 and the BS and J/P will get 10/3 or maybe even some leftover 8/3 if I'm feeling cheap but it doesn't bend too well like the nice rubber-coated stuff. I believe this cable was meant as extension cable because it bends very nicely.

[Roger Fitzsimonds]

I used 10/3 cable with twist lock connectors for my 1023s It works great. You are relly going to like this saw.

Roger