Adjustable shelf pin hole jig question

[Michael Van Voorhis]

Anyway...

I am building my first free standing kitchen cabinet and want an adjustable shelf in the bottom. It is a very simple "European" design with a double flat doors using Blum hinges and faceless front frame. I plan on using Rocklers shelving jig which can be found here (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5876). I have a choice of 5mm or 1/4" shelving pin holes.

Which one should I buy? Which size has more hardware options? Does it even matter?

Thanks for all the help people!

[johnny means]

Get the 5mm. 1/4" is cnsodered obselete. Be sure to get 32mm spacing also. Every thing is built arond the 32mm system now.

[Jamie Buxton]

You can use either. I use the 5 mm, for a couple reasons. First, it is a smaller hole, so the substrate material isn't quite as visible. Second, if you set the 5 mm holes back the standard 37 mm from the front, you can screw the cup hinges into the holes. (You do need the 5 mm screws for this. I get them from the same place I get the hinges. But if you don't want to bother getting the special screws, you can fasten the hinges with regular screws -- just not into the 5 mm holes.) Many drawer slides have a screw hole for that 37 mm position, too.

[Rick Dennington]

Build your own jig for spacing holes-- it's cheaper, and a piece of plywood is less expensive than the jig!!!

[Michael Van Voorhis]

Build your own jig for spacing holes-- it's cheaper, and a piece of plywood is less expensive than the jig!!!


That is definitely true. I am just unsure of my ability to create a jig perfectly square with perfectly spaced 5mm or 1/4" holes.

[David DeCristoforo]

Save, the dough. Just figure out where you want to put shelves and drill for one set of pins. If you need to move the shelf at a later date, you can drill another set of holes. In 99 percent of cases, once the shelves are "installed", they never get moved. And the rows of unused holes are ugly (MMHO) and can collect crud...

[Rick Dennington]

If you think you can't build a jig and unsure, here's an easy solution:
Get a piece of 1/4" perferated hardboard--you know the kind that has the holes in it--moreover called"pegboard". Has perfect holes that are 1/4" usually. Cut to length and width you need, and you're good to go. Just decide how far apart you want the holes in your project to be, and space the holes accordling. Simple. Easy as pie. Nothijn' to it., etc.etc.etc.......:D

[Rod Sheridan]

As Jamie indicated, stick with the 32mm system, measure and build in metric sizes.

I also agree with David, I find rows of shelf holes look terrible, aren't usually used and collect dirt.

If you absolutely need adjustable shelves, install 2, or 3 maximum rows of them to avoid the "fits nothing well" design look.

Regards, Rod.

P.S. no jig required, set your drill press fence to the required setback. Draw a vertical pencil line on the fence that lines up with the bit.

Place a small pencil tick at the edge of your panel, line it up with the pencil mark on the fence and drill. Very accurate and simple.

The 32mm system makes it very easy to space your holes, no complicated fractions to screw up.

[Paul Ryan]

If you have a drill and a tape measure you can build your own. A drill press is even better. The jig from grizzly is a piece of junk so don't buy that one. And the one from rockler is over priced.

I agree with David though. Drill the spot for your shelves when you know where they need to go. Otherwise you end up with a swiss cheese looking cabinet and the shelves never get moved anyhow.

[Michael Van Voorhis]

Yeah, I guess I wouldn't be asking this question if I owned a drill press. I do not have the room for even a bench drill press let alone a table saw.