Switch for buffing motor

[Rob Platt]

I've been using a 1725 rpm motor and a Beall buffing system for some time, and it works great. The motor doesn't have a switch, so I've been plugging and unplugging the cord between wheels.

It would be handier if there was an on/off switch - but looking over the motor, there's not room to mount one. Any suggestions? I could see tackling this several ways, but am not the most experienced electrician out there.

[Harvey Ghesser]

I would put an on/off switch such as a light switch (in a box) on the chord. It would work well.

Harv

[Rich Greinert]

This is a device that has worked well for me.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020293/21236/OnOff-Paddle-Switch-with-Magnetic-Back.aspx

[Barry ward]

All I do is mount the motor on a board then get a regular light switch with the elect box,mount that next to it ,then run the wire from the motor to the switch then out to the outlet.Total cost approx two bucks.I have hooked up several motors like that.

[Chris Stolicky]

All I do is mount the motor on a board then get a regular light switch with the elect box,mount that next to it ,then run the wire from the motor to the switch then out to the outlet.Total cost approx two bucks.I have hooked up several motors like that.

This would work. I would just recommend you get a decent toggle switch that will hold up over time. They are still only a few bucks at the box stores.

[Terry Murphy]

I did what Barry did.
Chip and it works!


Terry

[Bernie Weishapl]

Same here. I ran my cord into a metal box, split the hot into a regular light switch. Cheap and easy.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Light switches work great - have both of my lathes wired that way!

[Billy Tallant]

Just stopped at Harbor Freight this evening. They have a foot controlled on-off switch that would work great. Price was right too, at $9.99.

[Rob Platt]

ok naysayers - attached is a pic of my fix for this. my wife just says I'm stubborn...

i drilled mounting holes and a pass-thru in the back of a small plastic electric box. also drilled a 5/8" hole in the bottom for a clamp to hold the exiting cord firmly. works great!

my only concern would be if the motor generated enough heat to affect the plastic box. i don't think so, but will have to keep an eye on that.

[Scott Conners]

Rob, that box should be rated for contact to at least 90 degrees Celsius, so keep the motor touchable (90C is 194F, near-boiling) and you should be fine. It could get a little soft and sag if the motor is often that warm however.

[Chris Stolicky]

Good job.

Its nice to see that I'm not the only one that can rig up switches like this... :D

Now, enjoy doing some buffing.

[Jack Riley]

Just replace the plugged cord with a toggled cord. I've used these cords for many applications and save them after something wears out! They are heavy and capable of the load. I made an extension cord with a GFI box for use where no GFI plug was available.