TS Spreader, Thin Kerf Blades and Kick Back Zone

[Johnnyy Johnson]

I did a search and read a lot of great post on TS kick back. I decided to order a Biesemeyer Spreader for my contractor saw. Not soon after ordering I continued to read on other sites and saw that the mfg. does not recommend using thin kerf blades with the spreader. Well, wouldn’t you know it I bought the new Freud thin kerf glue up blade last week. I take it that since the blade is thinner it could cause splitting. Has anyone used one and was there any oblivious concerns? Also, in trying to stay out of the kick back zone is it better to stand to right or the left of the work piece? I am right handed, but it doesn’t matter to me I can push the board through from either side.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

After doing some more reading I think I would be better off using the thicker Freud glue up blade to make the spreader cuts.Then come back with the TS home made jointer jig and use the thin kerf blade with more teeth to get the edge square and extra smooth. That is on 8' bds.
On shorter one I can use my 6" jointer. Anyone tried this and it not been the best idea?

[Nissim Avrahami]

Hi Johnnyy

It is correct to call it "Spreader" (according to OSHA) but normally, we call it "Splitter" and the new ones - "Riving Knife"...

The "Spreader" must be thinner than the saw blade kerf otherwise, it will jam in the kerf...

Probably, Biesemeyer, is making Spreaders that fit a normal (1/8") kerf and might be too thick for a thin kerf...

As for "trying to stay out of the kick back zone is it better to stand to the right or left of the work piece?" - there are 2 kinds of kickback;
1) The work is "Pushed back" toward the operator - on the right side of the blade.
2) The work is lifted up turned counter-clockwise and swing to the left side of the blade.

So, you shall have to choose... :)

Regards
niki

[Eddie Darby]

If you can get some sheet metal, and duplicate the 'splitter' that you presently have, but thinner so you can use thin kerf blades, then things should work.

The splitter is there to keep wood that has tension in it, from warping right after the cut, and coming into contact with the back of the blade. The 'splitter' itself has to be thinner than the blade so that the wood does not get caught on it.

This web-page shows the two different 'splitters' for both types of saw blades.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=51151&cat=1,41080,51225&ap=1

I would do some research into kickbacks so that you have a thorough understanding of them.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

I go on You Tube last night and saw a lot of clips concerning kick back. I now have a much better understanding.

Thanks for the help.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

One more thought...Eddie you suggested making a thinner splitter. I could do that but will it be thick/strong enough to stand up cut after cut? I'm wondering if it would be better to make a fence attachment that works like my shaper table fence (but none adjustable ..fixed) That would allow about a heavy1/16 extra space just after the center of the blade. If this would be safe, than I can still use my thin kerf blades.

Thanks