Plain 'Ol Advice...

[Rick Pinson]

Or is it Old Plane Advice..? :rolleyes:

Anyhoo, I'm just returning to hobby woodworking after a long hiatus and am acquiring some hand tools to venture down the Neander path abit. As part of my plan, I'm trying to buy #4, #5, #6 and #7 bench planes through ebay currently -trying being the key word here. (Maybe an #3 and #8 if the price is right or a good fixer-upper comes along.)

I have several questions: Would a Stanley #78 or #190 make a good, inexpensive shooter? Or, should I stick to using a bench plane instead? (I might eventually splurge on a LN Iron Miter Plane, but for now something has to do double duty.)

Also: What is a good combination of basic block planes to buy? I have one that closely resembles a Stanley #110 that I purchased back in the 80's from Walmart. (I think it was part of their in-house tool line, Made in USA, probably by Great Neck or Stanley...) I really like it, but could see where one with a depth adjuster would be handy when accuracy is needed.


Any advice/guidance/help is greatly appreciated.

-Rick

[Michael Faurot]

I have several questions: Would a Stanley #78 or #190 make a good, inexpensive shooter? Or, should I stick to using a bench plane instead? (I might eventually splurge on a LN Iron Miter Plane, but for now something has to do double duty.)


A #78 would not have enough blade width for it to do much good with a shooting board. A better plane, to do double duty here, would be a #5. If you have the option, when purchasing, check the sole to the sides to verify it's square.



Also: What is a good combination of basic block planes to buy?
A 9-1/2 and a 60-1/2. Both have adjustable mouths which is a nice feature. New versions of these planes are actually fairly decent (with a little bit of fettling and tuning required) and relatively inexpensive.

[Brian Kent]

Rick, you might want to place this as a "wish to buy" on Sawmill Creek Classified. You have to become a contributor, which at $6 per year is far beyond worth it. You could find a good deal from a member and greatly reduce the risk of hidden problems in a plane.

Brian

[Robert Rozaieski]

I have several questions: Would a Stanley #78 or #190 make a good, inexpensive shooter? Or, should I stick to using a bench plane instead?

Rabbet planes shouldn't be used on a shooting board because the blade extends completely through to both cheeks. This means it will cut away the chute as it is used and throw the whole thing out of square. Stick with a plane in which the iron is not as wide as the plane body.

[James Scheffler]

Or is it Old Plane Advice..? :rolleyes:

Anyhoo, I'm just returning to hobby woodworking after a long hiatus and am acquiring some hand tools to venture down the Neander path abit. As part of my plan, I'm trying to buy #4, #5, #6 and #7 bench planes through ebay currently -trying being the key word here. (Maybe an #3 and #8 if the price is right or a good fixer-upper comes along.)

-Rick

I've had good luck buying tools from Tom: http://www.workingtools.biz/

While it's comforting to look at pictures of what you're buying (Tom's site just lists/describes the tools), you might find that buying from some of the on-line tool dealers is actually a better way to get good tools. I'm sure there are some good sellers on e-bay, but there are also plenty of people that are selling problematic tools, and you can't always tell from the pictures if there is an issue that could make a tool worthless. They may not even understand what it is they're selling.

You may (or may not) pay a little more at a site like the one above (and there are other good ones). However, I believe Tom is pretty honest about pointing out the flaws, and the tools I have gotten have been better than the description suggests. You can return anything if there is a problem.

Have fun hunting!

I just bought a No. 6 and a spokeshave at a local shop that sells old tools. Yes, I was weak. :o I couldn't help myself!

Jim

[Prashun Patel]

For block planes, I'd get a 60 1/2 (or copy) and a 102. A 102 is good when you need something really small, but the 60 1/2 will do most things a reg block plane can do.

Personally, I like a #3. It's got a delicate touch and I find it more convenient on smaller pcs than the #4.

[David Gendron]

On the Classified, there is a mitre plane made by Philly planes and it is cheep... I'm sure it is still there!

[Jim Koepke]

For shooting board use, my #65-1/2 block plane works great. The side to sole right angle has not been checked. The lateral adjustment of the blade seems to be able to handle keeping the cut square.

A #60-1/2 may be a little small for a shoot board.

A low angle bevel down plane works better for me when shooting end grain.

Bench planes have been used for this, but the #65-1/2 just seems to fit into my hand better for this kind of work. The knuckle cap of the #65 seems to just get in the way on the shoot board for me.

Eventually, a low angle bevel up plane of larger size may be acquired for this kind of work.

jim

[Rick Pinson]

Thanks for the sage advice one and all. :)

I can see that I have just enough information to be dangerous...O' curse Christoper Schwartz' Workbenches Book! See how ye hath lead me down this narrow path!


A #78 would not have enough blade width for it to do much good with a shooting board. A better plane, to do double duty here, would be a #5. If you have the option, when purchasing, check the sole to the sides to verify it's square.

A 9-1/2 and a 60-1/2. Both have adjustable mouths which is a nice feature. New versions of these planes are actually fairly decent (with a little bit of fettling and tuning required) and relatively inexpensive.

Yeah, after I read your post and took a second look at a #78, I can see where that wouldn't work at all. Okay, I'm looking for those suggested now. Several Creekers contacted me and offered to help me fill-out the basics, so many thanks to those who contacted me directly.


Rick, you might want to place this as a "wish to buy" on Sawmill Creek Classified. You have to become a contributor, which at $6 per year is far beyond worth it. You could find a good deal from a member and greatly reduce the risk of hidden problems in a plane.

Brian

That's a good idea Brian. Didn't you recommend some Japanese wooden planes in another thread..? Started with an 'M'?


Rabbet planes shouldn't be used on a shooting board because the blade extends completely through to both cheeks. This means it will cut away the chute as it is used and throw the whole thing out of square. Stick with a plane in which the iron is not as wide as the plane body.

Gotcha. I hadn't seen any pictures of a #78 or #190 in action, so wasn't exactly sure how they were used outside of their namesake...


On the Classified, there is a mitre plane made by Philly planes and it is cheep... I'm sure it is still there!

Kewl, I'll have to take a looksee!


I've had good luck buying tools from Tom: http://www.workingtools.biz/

While it's comforting to look at pictures of what you're buying (Tom's site just lists/describes the tools), you might find that buying from some of the on-line tool dealers is actually a better way to get good tools. I'm sure there are some good sellers on e-bay, but there are also plenty of people that are selling problematic tools, and you can't always tell from the pictures if there is an issue that could make a tool worthless. They may not even understand what it is they're selling.

You may (or may not) pay a little more at a site like the one above (and there are other good ones). However, I believe Tom is pretty honest about pointing out the flaws, and the tools I have gotten have been better than the description suggests. You can return anything if there is a problem.

Have fun hunting!

I just bought a No. 6 and a spokeshave at a local shop that sells old tools. Yes, I was weak. :o I couldn't help myself!

Jim

Thanks for the link, I've sent Tom an email to see what he has on hand since the web page hasn't been updated since May. And I concur that what's on ebay is a mixed bag for sure. It's either exceptional or horrid...not much in-between it seems.

Yes, I know the feeling, I've already gotten the arched eyebrow several times now...but she hasn't said, "NO!" Yet... :D


For block planes, I'd get a 60 1/2 (or copy) and a 102. A 102 is good when you need something really small, but the 60 1/2 will do most things a reg block plane can do.

Personally, I like a #3. It's got a delicate touch and I find it more convenient on smaller pcs than the #4.

I'm thinking that I will get a #3 sooner rather than later after doing some more reading and research. I don't have a lot of space for big projects, so I can see where I'll only work on one or two at a time while tackling more numerous small ones.


For shooting board use, my #65-1/2 block plane works great. The side to sole right angle has not been checked. The lateral adjustment of the blade seems to be able to handle keeping the cut square.

A #60-1/2 may be a little small for a shoot board.

A low angle bevel down plane works better for me when shooting end grain.

Bench planes have been used for this, but the #65-1/2 just seems to fit into my hand better for this kind of work. The knuckle cap of the #65 seems to just get in the way on the shoot board for me.

Eventually, a low angle bevel up plane of larger size may be acquired for this kind of work.

jim

I can see now that I'm going to need a reference book on the different makes of planes...had to Google the 65 1/2 and 102 to see what they looked like. :confused:

It's kinda interesting to see how different techniques are applied to the common tasks of shooting, beveling, etc. One another note, I found it ironic on the drive to work this AM, for all the Industrial Arts/Shop classes I took in high school (and I took every one offered...), we only used a few hand tools for woodworking tasks. (Hammer and chisels is all I remember.)

Everything else was either a powered hand tool or stationary machine. Our teacher showed us pictures of hand planes, so I knew what they were, but we never had an opportunity to use any...kind of a travesty of sorts. When I bought the #110 clone back in the 80's, I foolishly tried it on some plywood...and found-out that didn't work so well...and just put it away until just recently when I started pursuing woodworking again.

After reading the Workbenches Book and reading through some different blogs, I decided to give Neandering a try, but I can see I need to do some more research about tools as well as techniques...

-Rick

[Jeff Johnson]

I can see now that I'm going to need a reference book on the different makes of planes...had to Google the 65 1/2 and 102 to see what they looked like. :confused:


The Stanleys, anyways:

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html

[Jim Koepke]

It's kinda interesting to see how different techniques are applied to the common tasks of shooting, beveling, etc. One another note, I found it ironic on the drive to work this AM, for all the Industrial Arts/Shop classes I took in high school (and I took every one offered...), we only used a few hand tools for woodworking tasks. (Hammer and chisels is all I remember.)

Everything else was either a powered hand tool or stationary machine. Our teacher showed us pictures of hand planes, so I knew what they were, but we never had an opportunity to use any...kind of a travesty of sorts. When I bought the #110 clone back in the 80's, I foolishly tried it on some plywood...and found-out that didn't work so well...and just put it away until just recently when I started pursuing woodworking again.

-Rick

I think most high school shop classes were to train people for the job markets with the technology of the day.

Of course, that kind of thinking would have today's shop classes teaching people how to use a credit card.

jim

[Michael Faurot]

Okay, I'm looking for those suggested now. Several Creekers contacted me and offered to help me fill-out the basics, so many thanks to those who contacted me directly.


Regarding the 9-1/2 and 60-1/2 block planes. I have a modern Stanley 9-1/2 (model 12-920). Picked it up at a Lowe's for about $30 several years ago. The blade needed to be sharpened and the sole required a little bit of lapping, but after that, it's been a decent user.

After writing my original reply, I decided I also wanted to get the Stanley 60-1/2 (model 12-960). I currently have a Record 60-1/2, but it's difficult to do lateral adjustments to the blade. The 12-960 has an integral lateral adjuster so that should make it easier to adjust than my current Record 60-1/2. After doing a bit of looking, Amazon.com seems to have some decent prices for these. The 12-960 is going for $37 and qualifies for free shipping.

[Brian Kent]

That's a good idea Brian. Didn't you recommend some Japanese wooden planes in another thread..? Started with an 'M'?

Mujingfang!

In a first set of planes the 2 two I would recommend are the High Angle Smoother (but not as your only smoother) and the 11" Jack Plane.

Brian