Jointer Tune up Question

[Jesus Aleman]

Gents, I would appreciate any helpful feedback or links. I just purchased a used General jointer. I now realize that I didn't check everything before purchasing... my bad. Anyways, here are some of the issues.

1) Both tables are as flat as I can measure (length, width, diagonal). I can get a 0.0015" feeler gauge under the straight edge. Check.

2) Tables are coplanar as far as I can tell. I cannot get the 0.0015" feeler gauge under the straight edge except in one diagonal position. Check.

3) There are nicks on the blades. No big deal. I will change them.

4) Here is the problem. The fence is slightly concave I can get a 0.007 feeler gauge in the mid point of a 24" straight edge (ditto with the 50" str. edge). I think there is also a twist on the fence. I can get one side of the fence square with a table, but not with the other table. I can get the 0.002" feeler gauge between the fence and the square. Temporarily, I have set the outfeed side of the fence square.

I will recheck the tables to make sure that I didn't dream the coplanarity, and then run some test pieces. I'm fairly certain that I have a twist and a bow on the fence. I don't see issues face jointing, but definitely with edge jointing.

Does anyone know where I could get the fence regrinded?
I have also thought about adding a MDF subfence that can be shimmed square and flat. I can attached with bolts or magnets.

Your comments appreciated.

JGA.

[Philip Rodriquez]

As long as the fence is square (+/-.002) the bow does not impact performance. Dont worry.

[Myk Rian]

The fence really isn't that big of a deal. More important is the knives being coplanar with the outfeed when you install new ones.

[Byron Trantham]

+1 for Philip's response. ;)

[Tony Bilello]

Before you get too carried away with feeler gages and digital gages, just run a few boards through it and then join the boards and see how it looks. Are they flush. Are they square? The key word being "see". I doubt of your eye will see a .001 diference. Also consider that the boards will compress some due to crushed wood fibers under clamping pressure. If you can tell an error, then rework your fence, if not, dont worry about it.
Some of the finest work ever was made using a tape measure/ruler and a square.

[Philip Rodriquez]

In the 'old days' people used WOOD HANDPLANES to mill wood. Ever try a feeler guage on one of them?

Tables flat = check
Blades good = check
Blades set correctly = check
Fence square to the cutter where you apply pressure = check

Save the feeler guages for metal working.:D

[glenn bradley]

-1 on the fence not being a problem. It is not really a problem at 90*. I will fail to provide accurate angled cuts. The upside is that I very, very rarely make angled cuts; although I do.

You are on target to deal with the fence first. More than one person here has totally skewed their tables only to find that the fence was the culprit. Sounds like you are hot on the trail. Make some test runs and check the result. That is the true test of your setup. If the result is acceptable to you, you are done setting up ;-)

[Frank Martin]

If you can make the fence more accurate in one portion compared to the other, try to make it square on the infeed side, outfeed is less important...

[Barry Vabeach]

Jesus, I agree with the others, not a problem. Just wanted to let you know it is a common condition - it is a fairly long piece of cast iron, and it often develops a dip in it over time - mine was far worse then yours.

[george wilson]

Yes,even old Delta jointer fences are just about always warped a bit. If you CAN'T stand it,you can make a hardwood fence and screw it on over strips of shim stock. I don't think it is a problem,though.

Another poster had the same problem a while back. But,when he edged some wood,it came out nice and square.