Help with Table Saw Decision

[Tullie Templet]

I can get a used Grizzly #1023 w/52" fence for $650. I don't know much about the saw yet and was wondering how long this model has been out and is this a good price. Or I can get a new Ridgid R4511 $599 or Craftsman 35505 new $699. Which one is the best deal? Thanks !!!!

[Neal Clayton]

the used grizzly without question.

a table saw is something you should buy once. buy the biggest one you have room for and can afford. it's the one tool that the vast majority of us use every day, and as such should be the best you can possibly attain when you do get one.

my last "upgrade" was from a 40 year old unisaw to a 20 year old powermatic. the unisaw still works fine, actually, just lost some power over the decades and i needed a bit more, so the 5hp PM66 was the ticket. after cleaning a little rust and changing the belts, it works like new ever since. no smallish contractor saw will last that long.

[Prashun Patel]

The 1023 will require 220v power, remember.

It's generally regarded as a very strong "value" cabinet saw. That saw new with the 52" rails will be in the $1000-1200 price range.

If it were me, I'd get the Griz too - not that the others are bad saws (personally, I'm an owner of a hybrid in the class of those machines.)

[scott spencer]

If you've got 220v, there's no comparison in the way they're built or the power...the G1023 is an industrial style cabinet saw, and is simply a more substantial machine. My current saw is a Shop Fox W1677, which is the same as the G1023SL...nice saw, plenty of power. My former saw was the Craftsman 22124, which I believe is the same as the 35505? If so, that's also a nice saw but is not as beefy or as powerful, though I do prefer the Biesemeyer fence to the Shop Fox Classic that's standard on the 1023.

The R4511 has a riving knife and a nice mobile base, but the fence doesn't compare all the well to the other two, plus the granite top is still a question mark.

[Michael Schwartz]

the used grizzly sounds like a deal. I would suggest a sawstop but if that is out of the picture the grizzly would be nice for the price.

[Tullie Templet]

Found out the Grizzly is 6 years old but in great shape. It has a 5hp. motor with a Beismeyer fence on it for $650. Does this sound like a pretty good price or is this about average. I really don't want to buy one right now but if this is a good price I will jump on it.

[Adam Strong]

this sounds like an awesome deal... I personally own the Ridgid R4511 and love it. BUT what makes the Ridgid so great is what you get for the price it is a good value. The Grizly 1023 is 5 times the saw and you can get it for less. So long as the owner took reasonably good care of it, you would be a fool to buy the Ridgid instead. Even if you don't have a 220 outlet, it is not hard or expensive to add one as long as you have space in your electrical panel. Get it, enjoy it, and post some pics in a brag thread. :rolleyes:

[Rick Moyer]

Found out the Grizzly is 6 years old but in great shape. It has a 5hp. motor with a Beismeyer fence on it for $650. Does this sound like a pretty good price or is this about average. I really don't want to buy one right now but if this is a good price I will jump on it.
It's not deal of a lifetime but it is a pretty good deal for a very nice saw. Keep in mind you will need a 30 amp circuit for 5HP and 220 volts available. If you don't pull the trigger soon, someone else will shortly!

[Tullie Templet]

The 220 is no problem as my new shop in not even built yet. Just picked up my check today so I can get started on the shop so I am pretty pumped right now. thanks for the replies, LOML approved the deal so I am going get the Grizzly Fri. if he doesn't sell it from under me before then. I don't have good luck with stuff like this so I am praying. If you are wondering why I am waiting til fri. is because it is 2 1/2 hrs away. Wish me luck.

[Chuck Isaacson]

The R4511 has a riving knife and a nice mobile base, but the fence doesn't compare all the well to the other two, plus the granite top is still a question mark.

Actually it does not come with a riving knife. It comes with a splitter and blade guard.

Chuck

[eric eaton]

I upgraded from a Craftsman Contractor to a new Grizzly 1023 with the 52" fence.

I love it. It is solid and dead on and makes such a beautiful purring sound. The difference between a cabinet saw and a contracter/hybrid is night and day.

Don't compromise on your table saw, it is a foundation and having a truly solid and reliably accurate machine will greatly increase your confidence and enjoyment.

Good Luck

[Neal Clayton]

i would note, considering you're going to be moving it, and it can possibly shift in transit depending on how rough the trailer, road, and /or your truck are...

1) on your way home with the saw stop by a local supply store, not really home depot or lowes, if you have a local industrial tool supply that's probably your best bet. pick up a micrometer (i prefer digital), a 4 foot level, and a rubber maul.

2) when you set the saw up, first go side to side and at a 45 degree angle from corner to corner with the level, ensuring that the saw is flat at all points. if it isn't, there will be bolts under the extension wings that you can loosen to free up that particular table. bang on it with your rubber maul til you get it flat at all points, then tighten the bolts back up.

3) next crank the blade height all the way up, and measure from the inside of the miter slots to the blade on both the front and back of the blade with your micrometer. for this, the smallest attainable tolerance is desirable. mine varies about .002 inches from front to back. you might be able to get it to .001 with lots of trial and error, but, imo, get it at least within .003. for this you'd unbolt the main center table (bolts are underneath again, in front and back of the saw) and again tap it with your rubber maul til you get it just right. note that there will likely be shims between the cabinet and the table, be careful not to move those or let them fall out, they were put in at the factory to account for variances in the castings of the table and cabinet themselves.

4) next check the fence, again with your micrometer measure from the face of the fence to the edge of the miter slots with the fenced locked down, on both beginning and end of the blade. this is another tolerance you want down to .003 or better. if it's off, there should be 4 bolts holding the main part of the fence to the cam area that rides on the rail. again you can loosen the bolts and tap it until you get it as close as humanly possible, then tighten the bolts back up.

5) at this point all there's left to do is make sure the blade is at 90 degrees. use any type of square to make sure the blade is straight up and down, and if you prefer you can reset the pointer on the gauge near the wheel to a reference point for 0 that you'll be able to remember. once that's done cut a test board (one that's square to start with, a scrap piece of plywood is a good reference since the factory edge should be straight), and use your micrometer to measure the width of the board you just cut on each end. the two widths should be equal to the tolerances you settled on for the fence and the miter slot measurements. if they are within that .003 or .002 or whatever you wound up with, you're in business.

if you ever plan on actually building anything, rather than just collecting tools and making sawdust, you'll need the micrometer, level, and rubber maul anyways so just as well to get them now.

these checks aren't really optional. after all, you don't know what the seller did with the saw. maybe he never used it and it was off from the factory. maybe the last time he touched it was when he pulled his truck into the shop and ran into it. maybe he tried to move it and tipped it over, and never turned it on again. if the fence and/or table aren't square, the saw will be dangerous. if the board you're cutting isn't square to the blade it can dig in to the blade, and when it grabs, it'll fly out of your hands toward you (into faces, guts, legs, eyes, or whatever else is in the way). nothing you do will be able to control it if the table and fence aren't square. once square it'll tend to stay that way on its own, but check it first. a 5hp table saw can sling a board through a metal door, i've seen it happen. a couple hours of setup is better than having your first trip out of the shop be the one to the hospital ;).

[Cary Falk]

I don't see any pictures of the Grizzly in your garage yet.:D

[Tullie Templet]

Can't get it until Friday. It is 2 1/2 hrs. away. I called him yesterday and set it up for friday but I will call him today and beg him (offer a deposit) to please hold it for me. These deals in South Louisiana don't come often. I'll post pics if or when I get it. Thanks to everyone. I though I should get the Grizzly and you guys reassured me. Thanks Neal for that post. I have all tools required already and will deffinantely take care with setup.