Alternate etching fluid

[Darren Null]

http://www.instructables.com/id/Stop-using-Ferric-Chloride-etchant!--A-better-etc/

Wouldn't it be nice if there were an etchant that you could re-use indefinitely so that you don't have to worry about disposing of the copper, and that could be made in lifetime supply for like $10.00 with ingredients bought at hardware and drugstores? (And it's prettier too.)

I got seven words for you: Copper Chloride in Aqueous Hydrochloric Acid Solution! (Exclamation point!)

[Anthony Scira]

Man I LOVE that website. Some very creative people over there !

[Rodne Gold]

Dont use that with some metals - either wont etch anywhere near deep enough or will go exothermic
Use Ferric , its real cheap and does not contain a "real" acid (HCL).
Google "mordant etch" to see whats useable with what
This is wat we use..cept for aluminium where we use caustic soda..
http://www.polymetaal.nl/beguin/mape/edinburgh_etch.htm

[John Barton]

This is also cool - http://www.instructables.com/id/CO2-laser-that-cuts-sheet-metal/

[David Fairfield]

Speaking of etch, has anyone figured out a way to use the laser to remove the resist, instead of the photo developing process? I know it can be done for big stuff like sign letters, but I'm talking about teeny tiny stuff for scale models. Of course :)

Dave

[Rodne Gold]

You can either use a laser friendly polyester vinyl or paint , however the laser does not completely remove the glues and paint residue .. for vinyl , sandblast after , for paint , rub the plate with a very mild houshold abraisive with your fingers - we use handy andy and hope that no tiny paint detail comes adrift.
Photo or dry resist or screening is still the best method , especially for high volume.