How to fix this?

[Todd Willhoit]

I recently began construction of Norm's router table. Among other things, I had some "issues" that resulted in rebuilding the side of the cabnet. After assembling the structure, I noticed that three of my drawer supports are 1/16" taller than the others. As you can see in the attached picture, the result is 3/16" error at the top drawer support.

As I see it, my best option is probably to glue some thin strips on the right-hand supports to match the height. Any other ideas?

Todd

[Jamie Buxton]

Gluing strips in there will be a little bit of a challenge. How are you going to get clamping pressure in the rear of the cabinet? Another approach might be to do your compensation on the drawers. I don't know how the drawers ride in those slots -- runners on the sides of the drawers maybe? It wouldn't be difficult to displace the runners down or up to mate with your slots.

[Joe Scharle]

I agree; mate the drawer slides to fit.

[Todd Willhoit]

Jamie,
I thought about compensating with the drawers too. The only drawback is that now each drawer is relegated to one location. Not a deal breaker.

Good point on clamping thin strips. I have some light-duty Bessey 4" clamps that I thought I could use. The clamp pad just fits on the 1/2" ply, but turning the handle would be difficult.

While typing this I got the idea to cut a piece of ply (maybe my drawer bottoms) that would bridge two supports the full depth of the cabinet. I could glue in the shim, insert the piece of ply, and stack some weights on top to apply pressure to the glue joint. I might need to use some waxed paper to make sure my new "clamp" doesn't become permanent, but it should work.

Todd

[harry strasil]

The strips would have to be progressive, 1/16 added to the first, 2/16 to the second and 3/16 to the last, clamping would not be a problem, just cut a shim an 1/8 narrower than the slot, then rip it at an angle end to end and use the 2 wedges to cramp the strips till the glue dries.

Why not just remove the mistakes and clean up the residue and cut new ones or glue strips to each one and reapply them.

[harry strasil]

RULE #1, DRY FIT EVERYTHING BEFORE APPLYING GLUE. No offense intended we have all done it, it falls under the CATEgory, EXPERIENCE.

[harry strasil]

EXPERIENCE IS A TOUGH TEACHER, it gives us the answer after we have made the mistake, one thing, next time you will triple check things.

[Todd Willhoit]

The strips would have to be progressive, 1/16 added to the first, 2/16 to the second and 3/16 to the last, clamping would not be a problem, just cut a shim an 1/8 narrower than the slot, then rip it at an angle end to end and use the 2 wedges to cramp the strips till the glue dries.

Good idea. I like it.


Why not just remove the mistakes and clean up the residue and cut new ones or glue strips to each one and reapply them.

I tried to separate them with a chisel. The drawer supports are 3"x22" and 4"x22", fully glued (dried), and don't seem interested in letting me remove them without damaging the mating ply. I glued the drawer supports to the case components a few days prior to assembling the case because I couldn't see a good way to clamp them while inside the small cavity.

[harry strasil]

You might try hard wood wedges in the drawer slide openings at both ends and keep tapping on them till the glue shears sideways. Its amazing how much pressure the wedges will put on the glue joint.

[Todd Willhoit]

RULE #1, DRY FIT EVERYTHING BEFORE APPLYING GLUE.

No offense taken. I did dry fit the main carcass and found that I routed the dado for the upper shelf in the wrong location. I rebuilt the left side, but evidently cut my drawer supports 1/16" too tall. I ripped them on my bandsaw, so I probably measured to the wrong side of the blade when I made my setup. The blade kerf would account for about 1/16". On the bright side, despite an uneven garage floor, I did manage to get the carcass square in all the right places. :)

Todd

[harry strasil]

As a Blacksmith, Welder I used wedges to cramp 3/4 inch plate up to heavy Channel Ribs to pull the warped plate up to weld it to the the ribs.

[Todd Willhoit]

You might try hard wood wedges in the drawer slide openings at both ends and keep tapping on them till the glue shears sideways. Its amazing how much pressure the wedges will put on the glue joint.

Thanks Harry. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

Todd

[harry strasil]

next time set up a partial sheet of ply on some saw horses or on the floor and using a level and wedges, level the ply and drive brads thru the ply into the wedges to keep them in place for a level working surface.

[Lee Schierer]

Make a long strip of wood the depth of your cabinet and slightly wider than the slots. Make a diagonal cut the length of it to make two long wedges. Put in the thin strips with glue on them, then use the long wedges to clamp the strips tightly in place. Put the tall end of the wedge at the back on the bottom and then drive in the other wedge from the front to make it tight.

[John Coloccia]

My opinion: this is all much too complex for a simple problem on a piece of shop furniture.

I would go down to the local Woodworking store, or hobby shop, and pick up some "medium" cyanoacrylate. I'd cut some shim strips, glue them down with the CA, and finish my cabinet. I wouldn't be futzing with wedges, clamps or anything else. There's a lot more interesting stuff to get to.