Dumb question on moister content of bowls

[Ron Bontz]

Well I just couldn't take it any more! Between the 3520B staring at me for the last several months calling me to come and play and the new vicmarc 120... I broke down, stopped what I was doing and grabbed that 6" face plate. Like I have extra time right now. Then off I went. I just started turning a 16+" dia. x 4" spalted maple platter/bowl blank that has been sitting in my shop for the past year all waxed up. Not much planning going on, just winging it. My lathe and the vicmarc are just plain sweeeeeeet. So, after I turned most of the wax off I checked the moisture level and it was still at 16-17%:eek:. I plan on treating it with DNA and wrapping it for awhile. My question is, finally, what moisture content should I be looking for before I finish it? My flat work is usually 7-8% Kiln dried. Should the turning be the same? Thanks for your time and sorry for the dumb Q.

[Jim Underwood]

I doubt you're going to get it as dry as kiln dried wood. That ranges anywhere from 5% (way dry) to around 9 or 10% in my experience. Air dried is a little higher. If I remember correctly(probably not), it usually runs about 14-15%*. I'm not an expert, so don't quote me on that. Probably, a great deal depends on where you live and the relative humidity. I've never used a moisture meter on turnings, just flooring blanks (in another life).

I have used two methods to tell if something is dry enough to turn. The usual method is to rough turn the green thickness (slinging water) to 10% of the finished diameter, wrap with newspaper, and let it sit for a year (sometimes as little as 6 months). The general rule of thumb is that air dried wood usually dries 1 inch per year. Usually what you turn is less than 1 inch anyway so in a year, you can be fairly confident it's dry, no matter where you live. If you live in Arizona or Alaska, you can probably do the thing in 6 months. (Or if you put the thing in a freezer, refrigerator, or homemade kiln.)

The other way is to weigh (with sensitive scales) the turning every week, until it quits losing weight. Once it's quit losing weight for a week or so, then you know it's probably as dry as it's going to get in that locale/building. Obviously if you store something inside an airconditioned building it will dry faster also.

And no, it's not a dumb question.

*I just read over at WoodCentral that air dried wood runs 10-15% MC- so I'm not that far off.

[curtis rosche]

unless the peice is to wet, like that it feels like it was placed in water, i finish it, the bowl will warp later, but depending on your finish it wont affect it

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ron I think you will be ok with the DNA and wrapping. I bought a postal scale off the big auction house for like $25 including shipping. I started weighing my bowl blanks just for kicks. Jim is right because when it quits losing weight for a week it is ready to go.

[Ron Bontz]

Thank you. I never really thought about weighing it.:o I have a lot of large white oak blanks I'm going to be cutting tomorrow. So that's good to know. I have a postal scale as well. Once I get it rough turned the rest of way, I'll start weighing it. :)

[William Bachtel]

To answer your ?, between 6 % and l2% is a good ballpark place to finish bowls.

[Barry Elder]

Ron, most any wood that you buy that has wax on it is green and the retailer is trying to keep it from cracking. The sealant, whether paraffin or Anchorseal, slows down the drying a LOT. I've used DNA, bagged with chips, and weight, and at least down here near the ocean, the digital scale works as good as any and is faster. Between the hot fronts, wet fronts, cold fronts, when the weight starts bouncing (can change as much as an ounce overnight) the wood is as stable as it gets.